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Seats and carpet have been refitted, i believe the front seats are from a Honda Integra, they fit without modification of the mounting points, so i can revert to factory seats easily. IMHO they dont look too out of place and are quite comfortable Carpets a bit faded but servicable Seats and Seatbelts in Engine reassembly continues, I ordered 2 permacoil kits from Amazon and they arrived within a week. M6 fitted in timing case for water pump bolt M8 for exhaust manifold stud All frost plugs replaced, notice the evidence of a coolant leak, the original plug was almost rusted through. Loctite No3 aviation sealant used extensively on gaskets! New water pump New crank seal and gasket, Hylomar used on joint between seal housing and sump Inlet manifold and exhaust manifold, using copper coated nuts and lots of copperslip on the studs, installed. Looks like the head has been milled approx 0.7mm, should give me a compression ratio of approx 9.1:1 which is fine, shame the upper timing cover hasn't been milled!. At the stage i dont want to pull the head off so will have to get creative with rocker cover sealing!

There doesn't appear to be a taper on my distributor so standard roll pin it is then - thanks guys

I have just had to assemble 1 good distributor out of 2 old ones, is it ok to use a standard roll pin (4 x 20mm) on the drive gear or do i need to flare out the pin or is it a special type of pin that BMW used?

More progress photos Brake lines cleaned and reinstalled, brake/clutch reservoir added Washer motor stripped down Some serious oldschool over engineering here! And installed on washer bottle, washer bottle leaked but managed to fix with careful use of a soldering iron to weld the plastic Steering wheel installed, i have a genuine Nardi which will eventually be installed when i get the Momo to Nardi adapter. Started stripping the ancillaries off the block, the plan is to leave the long block intact and check and replace gaskets ect as needed Water pump had a broken stud, tried the welding a nut method - FAIL So drilled out and collapsed thread Stud screwed out -WIN! Removed all core plugs Glad i did, a couple looked close to failure Removed Block drain plug to reveal? What looked like solid metal, after chipping away turned out to be sludge build up. A few more flushes of the water jacket should see it right.

Very cool video and looks like an awesome spot for a workshop - project is cool too - subscribed!

Satisfying to start to see parts going back in and the piles of cardboard boxes reducing Pedal box fitted using 3M strip caulk Brake and Clutch master cylinders refitted Steering box in position Rebuilt twin servos with new hydraulic seals, i have lots of photos of disassembly and rebuild and will post in the future (After road testing to confirm success!!) Sorting out wiring spaghetti begins Fused relays for Horn, Low beam, High beam and (in the future) Driving lights Laying out wiring Crimp tool and connectors used for relays, makes a nice tight crimp First Servo added Some wiring wrapped and second servo added Next up - Brake lines

Now the engine bay is painted i can start reassembly, emptying some of the cardboard boxes stored around the garage. Pedal Box (RHD) epoxy primed, fitting was straightfoward using 3M Strip Caulk At this point i cavity waxed areas that were easier to get at before i put anything else in, this is top of the plenum above where the heater box sits Wiper arms needed a cleanup New grommets fitted Painted and greased up And fitted, i fitted the wipers before the heater box to make life easier, its a tight fit in there when the heater box is fitted Heater box and valve refurbed, new hose and stainless hoseclips And fitted, again using 3M Strip Caulk. Now the Heaterbox is fitted i can start the interior refit In my latest package of goodies from Walloth and Nesch were the famous 'Corn Cobs" for the doorlocks. Fitted one and it really does make a huge difference, door closes with a satisfying Clunk now! The company i entrusted removal of the steering box arm to managed to feck up the alloy housing making oil seal replacement difficult! Really pissed off but dont think the oilseal was too bad anyway, it was the other seal that was leaking Ready to rebuild steering box, using EP140 (GL4) Oil to try to minimise leaking Cleaned and ready to assemble Job Done, filled with oil, will check tomorrow for leaks!

Reached an important stage in the refurb today - painting the engine bay. I went with an epoxy primer (already done) and a 2K 2 stage Basecoat/Clearcoat system. This is the first time i have used this paint system, all previous projects were with good old lacquer. Masked up First base coat on Basecoat goes on flat. I made the mistake of putting the first coat down too heavy and got a couple of runs, so i left it an hour and wet sanded the run with 600 grit and wax and grease remover, it worked perfectly. I wish i could take the credit but i You Tubed this very helpful 'How to" from a fellow Kiwi! Basecoat finished, 3 coats and a final dropcoat, metallic looks pretty good, no 'tiger striping' fortunately 3 coats of clearcoat and the jobs done! Pretty happy with the result Color variation This has been the only downside to the process, the color doesnt match the bodywork! The paint i used was Spiers Hecker Permacron mixed to the Code and the color the body had been repainted by the PO is lighter than the factory color, hence the variation. Looks like a good excuse for a future respray!

The PO had put electric windows in which may have worked OK but im a great believer in the KISS principle and wanted to keep the electrics to a minimum. While dismantling the doors i discovered that both locks were non functional and some rust holes at the base of the door - project creep strikes again! This wont be an extensive 'how to' as all i did was glean advice written by other forum members and in particular these 2 websites http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/doorlocks/doorlocks.html and http://www.my2002tii.com/may2003/may2003.htm So onto the photos! Removed the electric windows, i believe from a Ford Mondeo Rust at bottom of door cut out Patches welded in Bottom of doors epoxy primed, stone chip undersealed and wax treated on the inside, should keep the rust at bay for a while! Door brake seems servicable Standard problem here, will follow Bill Williams FAQ to sort this out Regulator well greased up, hope i haven't overdone it? Door lock soaked in petrol to clean off crud Then blown with compressed air and Brakeclean, replaced grommets and sprayed with a PTFE lube Assembled out of the car And bolted in, (rubber grease used on the grommets) And locks refurbed as described in the website mentioned above, i also reyeyed the drivers lock to match the ignition by filing down the tumblers. And so to reassembling the windows, i was ready for a fight here but i think i got lucky and the order i put things back in seemed to work well so for what its worth heres how i did it! Placed rear guide in but at this stage left it loose After mocking up on the bench with the guides, removed the guides and dropped the window into the door Quarterlight was already in the door, snapped the front guide into the front guide rail and bolted loosely to the window. Bolted rear guide to window Slid regulator in and attached to window, this took a few attempts to get the right window/regulator position to allow 'docking' to take place! Regulator was bolted up (This was after mating it with the window which allowed me a little more wriggle room) Rear guide rail was then moved forward and bolted loosely into position After an hour or so of adjusments the window now moves up and down smoothly, more fine tuning will follow but still a satisfying outcome Door trim still to put on, am waiting on the U channel felt strip to come from Germany Well thats the passenger side done, will do some other stuff before tackling the drivers side, i need a break from wrestling with greasy regulators!

Thanks for the feedback. Looking to get the engine bay color coated this weekend, then can start putting bits back in!

More progress with the tidy up of the engine bay and underfloor Welded up some of the POs mounting holes And added a bracket for the Hella relays Scrubbed the underside with Simple Green Came up pretty good i think Brushed on seam sealer over the epoxy primer And sprayed on rubberised underseal using a schutz gun Wheel wells done as well, i like the grey but may spray a light coat of fjord blue to look more 'factory' Covers my welding repairs well! This is the stuff i used, i think its German but available in NZ from R A Johnson, goes on nice and thick and is a pretty good match visually for the factory underseal. Next on the to do list - rub down the existing primer ready for a coat of epoxy primer Ready for epoxy primer Although this is to be a daily driver the opportunity to spray a clear engine bay isnt one to be missed, so i am probably lavishing more attention on this stage than i will be on other parts of the build!

Finished the floor and firewall welding, as far as i can tell this is the worst of the rust and at this stage dont plan to look too hard for any more - this is going to be the daily driver so a little rust is acceptable! Rotten metal cut away Firewall patch formed Took the opportunity to treat the insides of the chassis rails with Brunox rust treatment followed by a waxoil type treatment. Rails were in good condition with only surface rust on the inside Extra plate added on the top of the rail to provide a solid base to weld the gas pedal locating nubs bracket to. Copper coloured paint is weld through primer Final floor patch formed and holes drilled for plug welding And welded in Gas pedal bracket positioned and plug welded on 2 pack Epoxy primer brushed on Seam sealed Final coat of paint - Job done!

Finished testing the wiring, everything works, all relays and switches function. I had to take off the ignition switch as i was getting an unreliable contact in the 'fhart' position; 2 screws at the back and it comes off without taking the keyed part off, squirted some contact cleaner through it and greased the ball bearing and works perfect now. Sorry no pictures of this Welded on a good solid earth that i can use a jump lead on - the battery has already been relocated in the trunk by the PO. Added an earth strap and small earth distribution box from the Merc i took the loom from, giving me a convinient point to add additional earths for the megasquirt and additional relays Earth in trunk cleaned, may swap screw for a bolt and nut for peace of mind Earth on heater box bolt is good This is where i can use jumper leads, positive power distribution box is from an E36 (couldnt find an E30 one!) First sign of life! interior light. Basically i just went through each circuit, adding fuses, checking continuity and then powering up. By the end of the weekend everything worked Found this little NZ Native when i took the back seat out, its a Weta, harmless and very cool - ill find a place for him! I am missing one of these, its the parking light holder for an H4 Headlight, hopefully still available from BMW Doesnt look much different but its alive now! Instrument console cleaned and refitted Loom under dash tidied up and rewrapped with bias tape And onto the next project. Brake master cylinder refurb.

Sorry to keep on posting similar questions but i am slowly putting the pieces of information together before cutting! My '73 (RHD Squarelight) has two fuses for the low beam (one for each side and a relay in the circuit before the fuses.) The 86 terminal is looped into the feed to one of the main beams. This appears to be correct to the factory wiring diagram and i have been told that this is so the low beam lamps turn off when Main beam is turned on What i want to do is put in a mainbeam relay(s) to reduce the load on the lightswitch and stalk. Should this relay be positioned before or after the loop to the low beam relay? My thought is that it should be between the fuse and the low beam relay because if i position it between the low beam relay and the main headlight it will be inturrupting the earthing of the low beam relay? Im also thinking of having a separate relay for each high beam or is this just overkill and a waste of time?

Thanks for the replies guys, i kind of get it and if it works then why mess with it! What i do want to do is put a mainbeam relay in to reduce the load on the lightswitch and stalk. Should this relay be positioned before or after the loop to the low beam relay? My thought is that it should be between the fuse and the low beam relay because if i position it between the low beam relay and the main headlight it will be inturrupting the earthing of the low beam relay? Or do i just not get it at all!! Im also thinking of having a seperate relay for each high beam or is this just overkill and a waste of time? All help gratefully received and appreciated

My '73 (RHD Squarelight) has two fuses for the low beam (one for each side_ and a relay in the circuit before the fuses. On the 86 terminal i would have expected there to be an earth but instead it seems to be looped into the feed to one of the main beams. This appears to be correct to the factory wiring diagram but seems strange, can anyone shed light on why it was done this way? I was considering bypassing this loop, run the low beam relay terminal 86 straight to ground, then run a separate fused relay for each main beam connected after the fusebox, or is it overkill to have 2 main beam relays? BTW there is no relay for the mainbeams atm.

The existing BMW low beam relay appears to get its main power (30) via the green wire from the ignition switch through the fusebox, this stops high current going through the light switch but the ignition switch will still have the full current through it? Should i add an additional relay to reduce current to the ignition switch or am i missing something?

appears to get its main power (30) via the green wire from the ignition switch through the fusebox, this stops high current going through the light switch but the ignition switch will still have the full current through it? This seems to defeat the purpose of a relay, should i add an additional relay to reduce current to the ignition switch or am i missing something?

My low beam has separate fuse for each side at the fusebox question is can i run the 2 wires to a single relay to control the lights or must i keep them separated and use 2 relays?

Following the excellent FAQ heater box rebuild continues Foam on flaps replaced with closed cell foam, red rubber grease used on flap grommets Assembled to test cable movement - all good, success! Mockup of wiring in engine bay Showing relay box and Pos and Neg terminals (Battery to be trunk mounted) using modified original loom Mocking up additional relay box and Megasquirt relay box(Cardboard version!) Plan is to run a seperate loom for Megasquirt EFI Another trip to Pickapart - spent 2 hours removing the loom from an old Merc, not sure of the year but had lots of nice wiring that looked similar gauge and color coding to the 2002 so i now have a good supply of sutiable wire! Mercedes wiring to be put to a better use!! Started repairing wires that had been cut into or used as power takeoffs for additional electrical stuff. Trying to get the origional loom back to factory

Mines a 1987 KE70 Toyota Corolla 2 door wagon, only 125000k on the clock, standard apart from Advan wheels and 2" lowered. Not sure if you got these in the US? Basic reliable transport - I love it. The rooster just wanted to get in the glamour shot!

Took a trip to pickaparts and lifted about 200 hoods, came away with a few bits and pieces. BTW there are no 2002s at NZ Pickaparts and BMWs are few and far between, stiil you work with whats available Distribution Box from a 5 series, not an E30 one but will do the job Relay boxes from a couple of Toyota Corollas, they take Bosch type relays and i thought looked quite neat A couple of cables from Honda Integras which i hope to adapt to acctuate the Throttle body using the 2002 Gas pedal An assortment of Faston .250 connectors, covers and adhesive heatshrink from Digikey. Only took 3 days to arrive from the US- great service. The terminals were chosen after reading this http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html Paladin crimper is on its way purchased on Amazon last week! I now have no excuses and need to get stuck in to mocking up the layout for the engine bay and repairing original wiring

The heater box is fairly beaten up but the core looks ok and i need at least a demister so i have started to do a cheap but functional refurb, started with a bracket for the heater valve I subsequently read on the forum that the valve will function supported by the hose only but i had already done most of the fabrication so on it went. Some damage to the case meant the cables controlling the demister and footwell flaps were not attached and not opening the flaps The problem Bracket bent up from some 16gauge and painted with Hammerite ( Im not a big fan of Hammerite but was OK for this) And in position, it will be rivited on, the idea is to spread the load and reduce pressure on the brittle plastic - hope it works!

Sorry accidental double post deleted

Can someone ID this throttle body, it came with the E30 318i inlet manifold but i dont think its a bmw one? Its also been butchered by the PO but is a good size for my application, im just interested what it came from! Body size is approx 52/53mm Heres a few photos Any ideas?