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Particularly if you drive on the correct side of the road??. (RHD parts). Highly recommend, have helped me out in NZ numerous times?

Installed urethane bushings to 80amp E30 alternator, bought on EBay from Ricochet polyurethane technologies, really happy with the fit, went on with the pictured tools (hammer not required!), nice tight fit but circlips went on without a problem.

A few more goodies arrived, Bavaria pump test fitted and checked operation. Webers arrived from England, jetted to my specs 32mm primary Venturi 4.50 aux Venturi 130 main jet 180 air corrector F16 emulsion tube 50 F8 idle jet 0.35 acc pump jet 0.55 acc bleed back valve 1.75 needle valve Never had DCOEs before so specs are based on lots of reading, intended use and my driving style so time will tell how close I got! Strip down continued, dipstick and alternator removed Alternator ( 80amp E30 ) top bushing was mush, lower bushing not too bad , will replace both with urethane. made up a dummy head! Has made mounting linkage and synchronising carbs much easier on my back?.

Apologies if already posted but just been watching this on YouTube and had to share https://youtube.com/watch?v=-UbT38Mxwlo&feature=share Enjoy

7 years later and not much to report! What I have donefixed the non functional tacho using the output from the megasquirt and using a relay coil following this diagram, I had previously used the diode solution with limited success, this method worked perfectly and has been going for a few months now. Definitely cut off the points from the relay as they are not needed and make a horrible noise! Removed twin servos and ran new cunifer brake lines New rotors, pads and rear wheel cylinders. Braking is now much improved and really not much additional foot pressure required, won’t be going back to a servo setup. Added a pair of spotlights that came with the boxes of parts, there were holes in the bumpers already so why not?. Wired to a relay the come on with the high beams, really help with night driving, especially as my headlights badly need resilvering/replacing. Replaced centre bearing, old one was torn up, let’s see how long this lasts. Had a change of plan last year and decided to go with a twin Weber setup instead of the E30 fi in the original plans. Just wanted to keep it old school mechanical and tbh they just look right. Won’t be removing the megasquirt just using it to control the edis ignition which has been awesome. Went for a Mangoletsi manifold and cable linkage, also a filter king fuel pressure regulator. 40 DCOEs are ordered and on a ship somewhere! Made bracket and mounted Malpassi Bought a catch can on Ali express, it’s for a N54 but I liked the large inlet and outlet same size as the rocker cover breather. Currently it’s outlet runs to the gearbox tunnel to atmosphere, so will try that setup while waiting for the webers to arrive. I must also thank all contributors to the FAQ, this site is the most valuable source of opinions on 2002s by a country mile, there is a wealth of knowledge here to be mined by keen amateurs like me!

Mounted a Filter King, first step in preparation for the Twin 40 DCOEs coming in a couple of months.

20mm on a 1974 RHD in NZ, we still have bad roads but I put spacers above the fenders anyway!

Thought I’d share this photo of a successful method of removing the nut as hopefully a picture is worth a thousand words!

Hi, didn’t realise you were in NZ! No problems with the WOF, didn’t go to VTNZ though?. Springs are Jaymic

Replaced with foot power! More foot pressure needed on the pedal but not uncomfortably so. I did treat myself to new rotors and semi metallic pads on the Volvo BBK. Replaced and simplified lines with cunifer retaining dual brake system. Sorry not so many photos of new layout.

Hope these are of some help to you, those servos are a pita, I recently ditched them.

Pedal feel is firmer without servos, but not excessively so, there is an option to drill a new hole in brake pedal to increase leverage to MC pushrod but I haven’t felt the need to do that. Theres a couple of write ups on the UK forum on deleting servos, plenty of options on how to but I decided to replace old lines with cunifer and simplify routing but retain dual circuits.

Can’t help with how to test but had similar issues with my braking (RHD), no external leaks, rear drums adjusted correctly, bled 3 times, not running servos so couldn’t be that, process of elimination pointed at MC. Sure enough a resleeve and new seals fixed the problem, i was told internal leaking of fluid was the problem.

Replaced my master cylinder for that reason, no visible leaks, no loss of fluid but at random times pedal would nearly go to the floor, multiple bleedings didn’t help but reconditioned MC worked.

Had a similar problem, the solution was 2 o rings! Thread here Engine still going strong?

I made up a metal bracket and attached it using the existing rivet holes, crude but effective it's still holding up after a couple of years. Hope the link works, its the second post in my project blog

Looked more closely and I think that's exactly what I have. Could be useful to retain 13inch steels and have vented rotors?

Thanks guys - atm 2002 with spacer looks to be the most likely, is it even doable though? There seems to be a metal band where the spacer would go. I have volvo calipers on atm and those pads are definately larger, the pads on the mystery caliper are standard 2002 size. TBH im not planning on using these calipers but would hate to throw them out when they could be of use to somebody.

Did a search but no luck, the caliper on the right is from my 71 2002 and the caliper on the left is from a box of parts i acquired. Bolt spacing and bleed nipple placement seem identical the only difference i can see is the gap between the caliper halves.Only ID is the ATE logo. Can anyone shed light what the mystery caliper was fitted to?

Painted! 3 coats of basecoat followed by 3 coats of clear, a few nibs to remove and a couple of small runs but overall happy with the result in not ideal conditions. The main problem now is the new paint on the rear makes the rest of the paint look even worse! While the paint hardened i put the mechanicals back on Added a Volkswagen Passat Fuel filter and bracket for future FI conversion Wiring tidied up Subframe mounted, new rubbers throughout, turbo handbrake cables for 320 drums, new rear brake cylinders. New lock nuts on driveshaft Gas tank in, using 3M strip caulk to seal. CVs and old exhaust added, a new exhaust with turbo type muffler is on the wanted list but will have to wait! Final shot up on stands, its been 9 months since it was on the ground On the ground, still work to do but good to see it rolling again

Progress has been slow but the end is in sight for the bodywork/paint Rear Quarters taken back to bare metal Underside cleaned and loose paint and rust removed, where the factory primer/underseal was sound it was retained. Bare metal in trunk spot primed with epoxy primer Underfloor bare metal epoxy primed And rear quarters epoxy primed I decided to epoxy prime before using filler, Auckland has a very humid climate in summer and the epoxy seals the bare metal effectively. There was evidence that rust had started to form under the filler the PO had applied to bare metal, so i hope this will be a better solution. Masking before applying stone chip Stonechip applied - Nice to see in a uniform colour! At this point project creep took hold again - i realised it was a mistake to stop the repairs at the wheel arch and decided to tackle the complete rear quarter both to be sure all rust had been removed and to enable the whole quarter to be faired/block sanded. Waist and knee trims were also removed. At this point many applications of filler (Evercoat Z Grip) were applied and then sanded off with 36 grit, a professional would probably got it straight in 2 or 3 applications, i probably took about 10! Once i was happy with the basic shape i then went to 80 grit and finally 120 grit before applying 3 coats of filler primer, apologies for the lack of photos for these stages, you wouldnt see much through the clouds of bog dust anyway! Primer filler was guide coated and block sanded with a 16" board using 180 grit Which revealed highs and lows that required a feather coat of filler to remove, further application of primer filler, guide coat, blocking with 180 then 320 grit. At this point i was happy with the straightness of the quarters and moved onto removing sanding scratches from the primer filler with 400 and then 600 grit using a soft sanding pad. After masking the quarters and as specified by the manufacturer (Metalux) I added 20% of catalysed clear coat to the basecoat for the underbody and trunk. Trunk before And after Next - Basecoat/Clearcoat the quarters, and i can finally put parts back on!

Update time, progress has been slow but steady, involving some necessary project creep. Bubbling of paint on rear quarter required further investigation Bubbles were popped to reveal rusty moisture Went to work with a grinder to reveal bog half an inch thick in places Bog removed to reveal solid metal, apart from a small patch along the bottom, very happy with the minimal rust. The bog was there to cover a long dent in the quarter which i managed to straighten a bit There was some oil canning where metal had been stretched, removed it by shrinking the metal with localised heat. Decided to strip rear to bare metal as previous repairs by PO had started to show signs of rust Removed old lap welded patch And replaced with butt welded patch Repaired area where exhaust hanger had torn the boot floor The wheel well was the next problem, it had been repaired previously with lap welded patches but other areas were now perforated, choices were to 1) delete the wheel well, decided againsted that as i wanted to retain some originality. 2) Buy a new trunk floor - too expensive. 3) Source a decent 2nd hand well or from an E21 - Hens teeth, especially in NZ, 4)Fabricate a wheel well - skill level out of my range, or 5) patch the well Half completed patching, lots of welding but will be solid when completed and epoxy primed, total cost about $15 including welding gas (about $300 if i charged myself out!!) After lots more cleaning, grinding, wire brushing and repeat i am at this stage Trunk patched and bare metal spot primed with epoxy primer Rear underfloor cleaned and in the process of wire brushing surface rust areas Subframe, trailing arms were all cleaned and paint stripped, all in good condition apart from One shock mounting bolt which needed replacing It can be done without removing the rear hub, just loosen the brake back plate and you will have enough wriggle room to slip the splined bolt in. Spraying station set up in the back yard and all subframe components sprayed with black epoxy primer And bench assembly of subframe begins with all new rubbers. Rear hubs were in good condition so they have been left alone - project creep resisted! Next update should see things looking alot prettier with trunk and underfloor painted, meanwhile it's back to the wire wheel!

No, you need to keep the crank/cam settings as factory spec, changing that relationship could be messy or terminal. With the engine at TDC as per factory you need to either move the VR sensor so it is 9 teeth before the missing tooth or leave the VR sensor where it is and take the 36:1 wheel off the crank pully and reposition it on the pully so the missing tooth is 9 teeth from the vr sensor This guide might help, its for Megajolt but the toothed wheel positioning is the same http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V3_vehicle_installation_guide

EDIT:If you have managed to get the motor to run you can use the Embedded Ball (BB) on the flywheel to check your timing, it is 25 degrees BTDC, so if you set your timing in studio tuner fixed at 25 degrees you should see the Ball in the gearbox window (using a non adjustable timing light)

I can confirm that the splined bolt can be removed without cutting by loosening the backplate, making hub removal unnecessary ( I just went to the garage and did it!) Thanks again Bill for pointing us in the right direction