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About pompei426

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  1. I am selling my Weber 38/38, Canon intake manifold, and throttle rod. The 38/38 provides a nice upgrade from the 32/36 but still maintains the 'set-and-forget' reliability. These items were purchased from IE. In addition, this comes with the water jacket housing from my old 1bb carb and a rebuild kit for this carb. It doesn't need to be refreshed, but I wanted to do it anyway. I have since changed my plans and don't need this anymore. Price is firm at $450 and includes ConUS shipping For reference: The carb from IE is $375 The manifold from IE is $230 The throttle rod is $35 Less
  2. For the past year I've been spec'ing and collecting parts for the "ultimate street M10" build for my 1971 2002. I've kinda lost interest and decided to move forward with an M20 swap as it's more in line with my budget and needs. I am now selling everything I have for the M10 in hopes that someone else on here is interested in something similar. The M10 I planned to build is a S14 crank (84mm) stroker, utilizing longer rods (144mm) with 10:1 CR custom pistons, and a Dr. Schrick 304 cam. While the intent was to build a torquey mid-range motor, in theory this combination should net 180hp at the crank on pump gas and safely rev to 7k. Most of everything I purchased was sourced new from Ireland Engineering. The long block I intended to use was a lightly used factory re manufactured M10 with an E12 head purchased from a member on the FAQ. The head is complete and free of any cracks, but I was planning on doing a 3-angle valve job "while I was in there" along with new valve seals. The S14 crank I have is in good condition and has already been machined to fit the M10 timing cover. The snout of the crank still needs to be threaded and keyed. The block is currently bored at 89.22 with the old 8.3:1s still in place (will remove rotating ass. before sale) and the new Ross Racing pistons are sized for 89.50 so a light hone and a deck will be required. The bundle of parts with my purchase price is as follows: S14 84mm Crank - $1200 BMW Reman Longblock - $800 10:1 Ross Racing Pistons - $700 IE 144mm Rods w/ ARP HW - $636 IE Alpina-style Tri-Y Header - $560 NOS "Dr. Schrick" 304 Cam - $450 Weber 38/38 w/ Canon manifold - $350 ARP Head studs - $205 SS Strut Brace - $175 IE Engine hardware kit - $130 IE Adjustable Single Row Cam sprocket - $129 ARP Main studs - $128 Coated Rod bearings - $115 Silicone (black) Coolant Hoses w/ HW - $113 Oil pump sprocket and chain - $105 IE HD Valve springs - $90 Upper gasket - $73 Coated Main bearings - $70 Single Row Crank sprocket - $69 Timing chain - $56 Lower gasket set - $51 IE Windage tray - $48 Oil pan baffle - $45 Tension rail - $38 Oil pump shims - $21 Exhaust Heatshield - $18 Chain guide - $7 Total Cost $6,382 The only part I had yet to purchase was a MLS headgasket as I was waiting till assembly to determine what height would be necessary. Also, I planned on using a 1-2-3 distributor, but I didn't make a final decision on which version to purchase. I also have several extra gaskets, new sensors, and a few other small items I will include in the sale. I would like to sell everything together, but I'm not pressed on keeping the 38/38 or IE strut brace with everything as you might want to run a different fuel delivery setup or a different chassis stiffener. Everything is ready to ship. Almost all of the parts are still in the original packaging from when I received them and the block, head, pan, etc, are disassembled, cleaned, and oiled. I am asking $5800 for the lot, but I am open to offers. I can offer pics on request, but most items are new and self-explanatory so I didn't see the point. Thanks for reading, Chuck
  3. Marshall, I'll be rolling in with 2 E34s. I also gave the details to Manny (E30), Kevin Grim (2002), and my friend Tom (E28).
  4. Marshall, I'll be joining once again. I assume we're going with the standard 8-8:30 departure from your house?
  5. I have not purchased Bav control arms yet as I want to buy the NLA part first. And yes, I need E9 or Pre-74 Bav rods.
  6. I am referring to the rods that link the control arms to the front subframe.
  7. If you have a set, I'd love to buy them. Thanks!
  8. Go for the 2.9L M20 with ITBs or trip Webers. It'll blow the doors off the S14 cars.
  9. Reviving a dead thread here for future readers. It is important to match all aspects of the motor with one another. The 2 most important variables for a M10 (or really any motor) are cam and compression. Those 2 things need to be compatible, then you can determine intake, exhaust, ignition, etc. A 1.6 or 1.8 will only make a hotter cam less street-able as you aren't displacing as much air/fuel as that cam was intended to flow.
  10. The scraper/windage tray pictured is actually on a block with long rods and a 84mm crank. Minor alterations (grinding) are required.

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