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'76mintgrün'02

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Everything posted by '76mintgrün'02

  1. '76mintgrün'02
    My odometer does not spin, so I looked into replacement parts and found this site, http://www.odometergears.com/products/BMW/2002+Series+68-76/23 BMW 2002 Odometer Gear There are potentially two gears that can go bad. First is the gear on the inside of the speedometer housing. 10 tooth with a helical angle. (DOES NOT COME WITH THE METAL SHAFT) $25.00 BMW 2002 Thin Odometer Lead Gear Second is the lead gear which is next to the #1 digit of the odometer. Check to make sure it is tight on the shaft. Using a small screwdriver, see if it spins on the shaft. If it does, you should replace it also. $25.00 (I am hoping the FAQ-repair does the trick on mine, but have not dug into it yet.) Tom
  2. '76mintgrün'02
    When I turn my wipers on they make a funny noise kind of like a sick cat's meow for the first stroke, then get quiet. Maybe I should worry, but I find it amusing. Another way to compare speeds would be to count the WPM (wipes per minute) at the various speeds, with the engine running and a wet windshield, then compare notes. Low -- 42 WPM High -- 60 WPM (Mine is a '76) Hope this is helpful, Tom
  3. '76mintgrün'02
    I had the same problem with my rebuild kit. My parts were so worn that I would not have trusted the nylon top hat bushings had they been in the package. I decided to make my own out of bronze flange bushings from the local hardware store. The bronze bushings were 1/2"OD with a 3/8"ID by 1" long with a 5/8"OD by 1/16" flange. They were each cut to .390" for a total of .780" when stacked. This leaves just enough clearance for the washer and clip. They were then drilled out to 25/64" and honed to fit the shafts with a 3/8" DREMEL stone. I JB KWICKed the bushings into the bottom of the shift rod to fill in the play where it'd worn. Should be good and solid now. ($3.50/bushing x 4 = $15.00 at the local Henery Hardware). Definitely $15 worth of fun! I have put some photos on photobucket, if you are interested. I have many more and would be happy to discuss any details. http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j375/TomBrock/Shifter%20rebuild/ You might double check the length required for your bushings, but I'l bet they are similar. Tom
  4. '76mintgrün'02
    Sorry for the paranoid question... Silly of me! I hope the keys show up. I have a couple of key blanks I bought off eBay, but only one set of keys. I think I will have them cut today.
  5. '76mintgrün'02
    Why is the name "pupiler" not underlined like the rest? There is no profile link/information available. Scammer?
  6. '76mintgrün'02
    I beilieve the spring in the photo is upside down. The tighter wrapped portion should be up. My H&R springs have writing on them, which indicates this orientation. Tom
  7. '76mintgrün'02
    I have a pedal box rebuild kit form BLUNT to install. While it is apart I am considering heating and bending the clutch and brake pedals to gain 1/2" clearance at the gas pedal. The bends would be above the linkage and at the pad to keep them level across the top, thus making the pedals slightly shorter. Are there any reasons this would be a bad idea?
  8. '76mintgrün'02
    What about a compromise? If one were to mix and match, which parts on an 02 should be rubber (quiet and smooth) and which polyurethane?
  9. '76mintgrün'02
  10. '76mintgrün'02
    "Therein lies its charm – the ability to be fun in the twisties while never feeling like a foolish investment." http://www.barnfinds.com/ultimate-driving-machine-1968-bmw-2002/ Winning bid: US $3,000.00 on eBay... looks like a good investment to me.
  11. '76mintgrün'02
    "I knew if I spoke too soon, or too loud that my car would hear me and something would happen." I think it is trying to tell you something! Anyone here know Morse Code?
  12. '76mintgrün'02
    Varsågod
  13. '76mintgrün'02
    Here is the part no. according to RealOEM 09 Heat resistant plate 1 07/1974 07/1976 31111115970 ENDED (NLA)
  14. '76mintgrün'02
    As C.D. said, "you need a pressure bleeder" Here is a link-- http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=Motive+Products+Power+Bleeder&x=23&y=27
  15. '76mintgrün'02
    I put the fuel filter "way" before the pump to avoid the heat in the manifold. I share your concern about heat. The best argument I have read for putting the plastic fuel filter before the pump, as opposed to after, has to do with filter failure. If the filter is installed after the pump and springs a leak, there will be pressurized fuel spraying everywhere. If it leaks before the pump, the pump will be sucking air and fuel and a little less likely to start a fire. I kept the plastic filter in line so that I can visually inspect it for cleanliness. I figure it will do all the work and I can pretty much ignore the second one. I have included a few more photos of the installation, including the return line connection. http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j375/TomBrock/new%20fuel%20filter/ Tom
  16. '76mintgrün'02
    I took the advice above and installed a fuel filter with a bypass outlet. I found the return line on the frame rail and plumbed it in. I left the plastic filter in line before the fuel pump. I stated above that there were no visible leaks, but a few miles on a gravel road proved me wrong. You can see fuel stains on the manifold. I think what was happening was fuel would flood the carburetor after the engine was shut off. I see no evidence of this happening since the new filter was installed. I tried to blow through the new filter and was not able to blow through the bypass outlet if I plugged the other outlet. I suspect that this is valved so as to provide no more than 3 psi. Still starts a little slow when warm, but it seems like an improvement. Here is a photo of the installation http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j375/TomBrock/new%20fuel%20filter/?action=view&current=052.jpg Tom
  17. '76mintgrün'02
    Sorry, didn't mean to be redundant. I should have searched. I was just excited to find it and know I have the option of ethanol free fuel. Works well in chainsaws, so I am told.
  18. '76mintgrün'02
    I recently filled my car with ethanol free gasoline. An independent gas station opened up in Quilcene, Wa., which sells it in 87 and 92 octane. The cost was $4.35 for 87 and $4.55 for 92 octane. I filled it with 92 for about the same price as premium with 10% ethanol. I didn't notice a huge difference, but the car seems to like it. Maybe it's just psychological... Does anyone have strong feelings about ethanol in gasoline. Here is a link to a site which maps "Pure-Gas" stations. http://pure-gas.org/ Tom
  19. '76mintgrün'02
    What measrement can be taken to determine whether a car has lowered seats?
  20. '76mintgrün'02
    Thanks for all the information. I was hoping they were original. The cloth is a little dirty looking, but I will try and clean them and put new padding in the lower portion. There is an ever-growing pile of horse hair under the seats. I think I will give foam a try. I have found that a coarse sanding disc does a nice job of shaping open cell foam. It may take a few tries to get it right, but foam is cheap compared to the horse hair pads. My car was built in October of seventy-five. Tom
  21. '76mintgrün'02
    I saw this car come up for sale on Craigslist and have been kicking myself for not persuing it. I had just purchased my 76 and had too many "extra" cars in the yard to add another project. I have been wondering whether someone on this site bought the car. Unfortunately the photos are no longer available, but here is the ad 1973 BMW 2002, 4 speed manual transmission, sunroof - $895 obo currently not drivable as will not start, last driven when parked three years ago. The color was Fjord and generally straight and original. I would just like to hear that it found a good home here on the FAQ page. Tom
  22. '76mintgrün'02
    My car came with seat covers that have cloth in the center section. I am just wondering if ther is a chance that they are original to the car. My guess is that they were recovered at some point. The padding seems original though, and in need of replacement. http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j375/TomBrock/?action=view&current=040.jpg Tom
  23. '76mintgrün'02
    I have a similar issue with my '76 (weber 32/36). It is slow to start when warm and there is a gasoline smell (no visible leaks). I searched and found this thread, Thread Topic: Flooding and Hot Start http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,361719/highlight,fuel+filter+bypass+valve+fuel+return+line/ It sounds like the "filter fix" you are describing.
  24. '76mintgrün'02
    Thank you CJ, I will definitely look into that. I actually have a print out of the unibody dimensions in the glove box of my car. I will start by stretching a thin string tightly down the center line and go from there. Based on the numbers from the alignment, I would love to discover the the front subframe needs to shift forward (especially on the right--correcting caster) and slid slightly left (thus correcting the camber). Then I can adjust the toe in from there. Tom
  25. '76mintgrün'02
    Was the car on its wheels, with the appropriate weight on board, when you torqued the control arm bushing bolts down during the rebuild? If not, there is stress in the bushings and they tend to hold the car up a bit, possibly affecting your camber. Just a thought.
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