'76mintgrün'02

All right! I will put one in the mail today. Thank you.

I really preferred the look and feel of the locking cap that came with my car. The profile was flatter and matched the curve of the body. Also about a tenth of an inch larger diameter which filled the indentation in the body better. The stainless was actually polished and thicker material. It had a nice heft to it. (The lock worked smoothly but I never needed to use it):-) I walked the ditch for half an hour trying to find the missing pieces. I found the cover and the gasket and am now tempted to build a Frankin-cap using the cover of the locking and the innards of the tinny one... and a shim from a yogurt lid. Meanwhile: my rockers are rusting, A-arm is bent, heater's not working, steering box leaks... She's coming right along though! I do think the parts we physically handle give the highest return-for-improvement. Putting fuel in is an unpleasant experience. A nice gas cap takes a little of the $ting out. Let me know if you want a shim. I have three to choose from: White $.02 (cleaner emissions) Gold $ .02 (improved mileage) Red $.02 (increased horsepower) ... and they're RECYCLABLE ; ) EDIT: the White one has been sold the Gold one has been sold

I'll mail you that one if you'd like... just made it for show and tell. Send my your address if you want it. Tom

I ordered my rebuild kit from BLUNT. Worked like a charm. No slop or flop in the shifter now. I would not attach it to the body. There is movement between the transmission and body. EDIT: unless you do it like the post below... which looks solid!

Perhaps you read it in post #3 of this thread? Great tip! The ID is 2 3/8" and OD is 3 1/8" (not metric, but accurate for my cap) I have this tool that cuts both circles at once. Rarely do I have a reason to show it off. I bought a brand new BMW cap recently and was disappointed in the quality. Yes it was shiny stainless steel, but they stamped the cap and then the roundel which deformed the overall shape. Looks cheap and tinny, so I bought an old one off a fellow FAQer and moved the new gasket onto that one. Not as shiny, but a much nicer part. I kept the shiny one as a spare in case I leave the old one on the trunk after filling the tank... again. Tom

Nope, mine's green. Funny, I only get to PT a few times a year and have seen the yellow one too. I went to Issaquah on an 02 parts run a couple weeks ago and saw a silver one on my way. Always makes my day.

I was with my girlfriend and her dog the other day in Port Townsend. She got out of the car after giving me a peck on the cheek and a guy walking by said "Wow, a kiss, a dog AND a BMW... it doesn't get any better." Made me chuckle.

Funny, this thread is making me want to put my '69 VW back on the road. Many of the "feel the road" "hear the engine" "tinker-repair-upgrade" conditions apply two-fold! I simply stopped working on/driving old VWs once I got the 02. A friend once said, "you don't restore a VW, they made more of those than any other car... restore something that is worth something when you are done!" While I am inclined to argue with him to some extent, I know what he was getting at. Resale value is not my motive. I could maybe triple my purchase price, but have done that already in parts alone. It has to be a labor of love; although I have to admit that there is some suffering involved in my case. The joy comes in part from getting through the struggle and finding solutions. ("why are you hitting yourself with that hammer?" "because it feels so good when I stop.") My car will live its life as a daily driver as long as I own it. I use the term restore loosely... it is more of a rustoration. Patching the floors and rockers, replacing worn out bushings and mounts, seals and gaskets, tuning the Weber, dialing in the distributor, adding a wide band, swapping springs and sways, have all added to the performance and enjoyment. What starts out as an old car with an unknown history gradually becomes familiar and trustworthy. I feel like I earn the right to appreciate and enjoy my car. The $tigma associated with BMWs is challenging at times. A bit of a step up from crusty old bugs. As much as I love the color Mintgrun, I often wish I was driving the F-bomb. Tom

Thank you Toby, it seemed sort of randumb, but thought I would ask. HBChris, my car has the resistance wire in place of the ballast resistor, which I bypassed to run the Pertronix unit. Back on the old wire now and running points. I am pretty sure this little lentil is unrelated, but thank you for your input.

These are Kingsborne wires. I chose the 8mm set. http://www.kingsbornewires.com/product-p/12-7405L.htm Excellent customer service. Sent the replacement set right away on good faith that I will send these back, using the supplied pre-paid envelope. I believe they make a quality product... just wondering what happened to this set.

I recently took my new Bosch "black" coil off and put the old one back on. I had replaced it when I did my initial tune-up, after buying the car. I prefer the look of the old one and the fact that it says "made in Germany" on it. It seems to work just fine, so why not? The question I have is, what is this little capacitor for? Was it added to extend the life of the points? (I ran a Pertronix for a bit, but am currently using points FWIW) Tom

I bought these wires six months ago and they are failing. I contacted the manufacturer and they sent me a replacement set and asked that I send these back for inspection. They have what look like slight dimples in the wire which made me wonder about quality when I put them in. I suspect that the wire used to make this set was defective, but before I install the new ones I want to replace the exhaust gasket to avoid cooking them. One concern I have, aside from the gasket, is the air injection manifold. It holds a lot of heat and could be part of the problem. Has anyone else run into this problem with this type of manifold, or was it likely just faulty cable and or a worn out heat shield gasket? I am about to pull the manifold to replace the gasket and install an LM-1 in the Y-pipe but it is hard to get excited about putting it back on. I did purchase a replacement manifold, but it had a crack, so I sent it back. I sure wish there was one for sale locally, but nothing listed in the classifieds... (yup, I am trolling) Tom

HA! You're welcome. Mine fired right up today too, but I had not made the connection. Once I was inside the carburetor I found several problems. I reset the float height, tightened the power valve mounting screws and the accelerator pump discharge screw. Put in a new gasket and shimmed the auxiliary venturies. Apparently I was a little light handed while assembling things during the recent rebuild. I made some new cardboard gauges used the float settings in the Weber book I have. I have been dealing with a very slow cold start, often accompanied by a backfire. It sure will be nice if that is behind me. Thank you for helping me diagnose the improvements it is hard to know which fix does what when I find so many to do at once. Tom

It is nice to feel needed. My car needs me. Putting new parts in old cars warms my heart. Thank you BMW for keeping so many available. They want us to keep them alive. To a certain extent, I feel obligated. ... excuse me while I go knock the welding spatter off my sub-frame and give it a coat of paint... Quality time!

Probably prudent to pick the proper paper. I picked poster paper... personal preference. I did use a little brass hammer to tap them in.

no need to apologize... I would contact Blunttech (which is usually all it takes) http://bmw.blunttech.com/Contact-Us-17.html and then try Pierce Manifolds, if necessary.

I paid a little attention to my 32-36 yesterday. There was significant slop in the fast idle rod and it would rotate in its pivots before doing its job. I made a couple of aluminum washers and now it works like it should. I have a few Webers and the other two did not have the same problem. Worth looking at yours though, just in case. The pin on the linkage was worn, so I filled it and filed it round. ' The auxiliary venturies were very loose, so I shimmed them tight with a piece of paper, on the non-hole side (which was why I looked into the carb in the first place). several cheap fixes. drives much better now. these little things do add up. Tom

(I thought I would copy it here, in case it is flagged, or sold. Photos did not come through, but the humor did.) 1997 Jeep Cherokee - $1750 (Enid, OK ) 1997 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) 220K Miles 4.0 L in-line 6 4WD AUTOMATIC Transmission Bright Red Straight Stock Crank Windows, no cruise, no tilt, no delay wiper, no nonsense POWER MIRRORS! Woo Hoo! $1750 Here's the deal, kids: This is a Jeep Cherokee. This is not a luxury SUV, or a maintenance-free disposable import. It has solid front axles, wind noise, and character. It's a Jeep. It rides like a Jeep. It drives like a Jeep. All of these are GOOD things. It is not new, it is not pristine, it is used. This will be apparent in the pictures. If you do not own a toolbox, have never changed your own oil, and are scared of firearms: THIS VEHICLE IS NOT FOR YOU. If you have been posting on facebook all about how excited you are for pumpkin latte season: THIS VEHICLE IS NOT FOR YOU. If you get offended easy and often, whine to your co-workers, and bitch a lot: THIS VEHICLE IS NOT FOR YOU. If you feel you are owed anything in the world & have a bullshit job where you fail to produce: THIS VEHICLE IS NOT FOR YOU. If you own a bieber album, white oakleys, affliction t-shirts, or those candy-assed stitched-pocket jeans: THIS VEHICLE IS NOT FOR YOU. If you consider the 2nd Amendment an anachronistic relic and have never owned a firearm: THIS VEHICLE IS NOT FOR YOU. If, however, you have BALLS OF STEEL and consider adverse weather an excuse to do stupid shit: THIS IS YOUR JEEP. Do you laugh at danger, and tempt fate? Have you ever uttered the words, "Hold my beer and watch this ..."? While bored at work do you pick targets at random and think, "I could hit that from here with the .22 ..."? Have any of your friends quit hanging out because you were too much fun? Do you have the number of a friend with cash memorized for bail? When you pass an abandoned flatbed farm truck along a fenceline do you consider taking on another project? Is your ol' lady really sick of the random piles of parts, greasy footprints, and empty beer bottles in the garage? -could you not care less? Do you have Jalopnik saved on your laptop AND smartphone? Do you own a service manual for every vehicle you ever owned? Do you still miss your first ride? Can you carry on a two hour conversation discussing tools, scars, and hi-lift jacks? Remember when tool companies had the balls to put half-naked beauty queens on their calendars? Do you consider the Prius an abominable affront to the Gods of displacement, torque, and All Mighty Internal Combustion? If you answered in the affirmative to the preceding: THIS IS YOUR JEEP. DETAILS: -I am the second owner. First owner barely got it dirty and engaged the front axles once. -I have remedied this excessive caretaking with muddy roads and a pile of fun. -The motor uses a little oil. How much? I don't know, I'm not collecting statistical analysis points. I check the oil, I fill the oil, I drive. Not enough to bother me. -It leaks a little oil. How much? Not enough for me to care. It has 220,000 miles, Poindexter! If you have a vehicle with 220K NOT leaking or burning oil, it's empty! -Rear bumper has a big-ass crease in it. I dented it backing into a concrete pole. Sober. We drove away giggling, for the record. Haven't fixed it. -Driver's side door was caught by the wind, whipped forward, got into the LF quarter panel. -Radiator has a small leak. Pinhole. I can replace the radiator or you can. Really doesn't matter A new radiator and hoses will run $145. If you don't want to replace them I will. Add $250 to the price of vehicle. This includes radiator, hoses, and labor (beer). A freaking bargain. -The badass little 4.0L bullet-proof in-line six starts and runs like the proverbial champ. -Tranny and 4WD operate perfectly -Tires will need replaced in a couple thousand miles. I haven't upgraded because I had plans: Had planned a small lift, upgrade to 17" Wrangler wheels, and more aggressive tires. Life got in the way - it ain't happening. -Zombie stickers on the right rear window stay. My daughter's idea, take it up with her. -Flogging Molly sticker stays as well. They kick ass, so there. QUESTIONS: -Why are you selling? I can't justify owning it anymore. Motorsickles, kiddos, work, travel, and beer have consumed my time and money. Someone else needs to appreciate the Jeep for what it is: awesome mechanical artistry. -What's wrong with it? Radiator. Small oil leaks. Driver's side door cosmetic issues. And it's pissed it has been neglected and parked. It needs rescued. -Does the 4WD work? Hell yes. Like a Dickensian Orphan. -Will you sell me the [engine / tranny / rear door / axle / etc.]? No. I'm not in the salvage business. Buy the Jeep. Love the Jeep. Give the Jeep a home. -Will you take [insert ridiculously stupid low number here]? No. If I wanted [ridiculously low number] I would have asked [ridiculously low number] Want a cheap car? Get your kid that lowered tuner piece of shit honda project down the road. I think I'm plenty cheap for this bad mofo. -Why is it still stock? Because I bought it for a daily driver with the intention of turning it into a project. I haven't had the time to do so. So I am selling it. -Can I put a 6" lift and giant tires on it? I don't give a shit. But be sure to use quality components and for God's sake - get it aligned after a lift! -Would this make a good car for my daughter? Hell. Yes. Not only a good car, a learning experience. Introduction to vehicular maintenance. Additionally, there isn't really enough room in the back for that little bastard she's dating to try anything. -Can you deliver? Within reason. I'd drive it a hundred miles or so. But really, you should come get it. Look it over. Have a beer. Etc. -Will you take a check / cashier's check / Western Union Transfer / Nigerian Promissory Note? Would you take a ball pein hammer to the forehead? No. I'll take Cash. Period. Bring cash or don't show. -Will you ship to -? No. See above. -No, really, all I have is [lowball dollar amount]? That's great, I don't give a shit. Unicef ain't running this deal, and until they do I want $1750. Why? Because I don't HAVE to sell this little beauty. Truth be known, I'd rather keep it. But if it's going to a good home - I will sell. Unless you're an asshole - then no sale. -Why are you such a dick? Everything is relative; you should see my friends. Any other questions, feel free to reply to this email and ask.

I have ben having fun with a little digital camera lately, using it to see things I would not otherwise be able to. You could try taking a couple of shots from behind and possibly get the numbers that way. If you do need to rotate it and don't want to reset timing, you can make a fine scratch (where the body meets the mount) to index the position and put it back where it is now.

I had to wiggle a bulb back to life yesterday and thought "I ought to paint my taillights silver..." Bob's posting inspired me today. As you can see the silver was getting a little thin. It might sound silly, but I am thinking of painting the amber portion of the reflector gold and using a yellow bulb. Time to have BLUNT send some new seals.... Truly an incredible difference in brightness! You may have saved my life Bob. Thank you. Tom

thank you. makes me want to go put a little door on it... One man's grief is another man's joy! ; ) ...on a good day anyway.

Are you saying that the detector needs to be relocated (rotated around the shaft) for the spark to happen at the proper relation to the cap?

I probably should have picked up a fresher box, but repaired mine instead. Silly, maybe, but kind of fun and now it's done. pattern patched If you do drill holes to convert, you will also want to add a piece to thicken the master attachment point

Does that explain why my cap looked like this after running a #2842 in my 188 002?

I called Pertronix to ask which set to use on the 002 that came in my car and they suggested the 2842, without mentioning the 12 degree discrepancy. I don't understand how an electronic trigger can affect timing. I thought it was basically a switch and the advance mechanism in the distributor set the curve. I have points back in the car now and am tempted to plot the advance curve as it sits; then go back to the 2842 and plot it again. The dwell and timing have stayed dead on with the points, so I have not messed with it... Tom