'76mintgrün'02

That's usually due to the shift lever being installed 180 degrees out. The bend in the shaft should point the lever back at you, not away. I dug up a couple of old threads where that was the issue. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/236803-shifter-position-adjustment/#comments

I agree with Buckeye. Make the bushing smaller, so it fits the hole. Someone wasn't paying attention when they selected that bushing. It is too big. You could also put a slight chamfer on the edge of the hole, so it doesn't dig into the bushing.

Which tires are cheaper in that size than 185/70-13? Or, is it that a certain tire is available in that size and not 185/70-13? I don't hate, but I don't understand what you're saying. Could you please post examples? I put KUMHO SOLUS TA11 tires on my car last summer. The price was reasonable and they seem just fine. It's a daily-driver, not a race-car, or a show-car. I suppose it's an economy-car.

I had taken Ed's advice and wire tied the clamps together on the stubby pump, to insure against the pressed in fittings coming loose. (bottom side view) Then went back to this pump, not long after that and didn't need the wire.

Flange, as in hub? If so, here you go.

Don't you want to remove the rest of the old tar to get at the rest of the rust? A stitch in time saves nine! I found quite a bit of rust under mine and caught it just in time.

One end of the oval viewing hole is flat and that's the side you use. The mark should align with the driver's side of the hole.

I usually just use the "select your vehicle" option and type in year/make/model, then click on "shop for parts" and use the category menu to find them. I went to "Steering" to find the inner ends.

Lemforder inners are listed as available. BluntTech Industries • Tie Rod End WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM Inner tie rod end. 2 per car Blunt can often provide more parts than the ones listed in the online catalog. You could send them an email or give them a call about the outer ends.

No. The inner end has a bend. Last time I looked, Rock Auto had a few outers to choose from, but no inner ends. What brand ends are you buying?

Have you tried an ultrasonic cleaner?

That joint was worn out on my car. I replaced the tube at the bottom of the shift lever and used bronze bushings in place of the original plastic ones. It was a fun project. I'd suggest removing the shifter assembly to clean it and inspect for wear, then order parts as needed. Assuming you're not needing to drive the car in the meantime. Tom

I'd recommend shopping at Blunttech.com, so you can joint the fun in this thread. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/334974-shoutout-to-blunttech/ The Blunt kit does not include the gear shift rod joint and they get sloppy, so add a joint/pin/foam insert to the list. The part numbers can be pulled off of this RealOem diagram. No. Description Supp. Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes 01 Set circlip 10 8,0 3 03/1974 07509064295 ENDED 01 Circlip 8,0 3 03/1974 07119932863 $0.11 02 Shim 16X10,2X0,65 2 03/1974 25111220199 $0.30 03 Gearshift rod joint 1 03/1974 25111205070 ENDED 03 Gearshift rod joint SCHWARZ 1 03/1974 25117503525 $37.51 only in conjunction with -- Straight selector rod L=151MM 1 03/1974 25111206888 $27.51 -- Shim 16X10,2X0,65 4 03/1974 25111220199 $0.30 -- Shift lever-lower part 1 03/1974 25111220213 $23.00 04 Dowel pin 1 03/1974 23411466134 $0.70 05 Tension bush 1 03/1974 25111203682 $1.18 06 Plastic washer 1 03/1974 25111434194 $0.85 07 Straight selector rod 1 03/1974 25111204357 $37.53 For vehicles with 5-speed sports gearbox =Yes 07 Straight selector rod 1 03/1974 25111204359 $92.48 08 Shifting arm 1 03/1974 25111203776 ENDED For vehicles with 5-speed sports gearbox =Yes 08 Shifting arm 1 03/1974 25111204147 $46.76 ENDED 09 Lock Ring 1 03/1974 23411466112 $0.68 10 Shift lever-lower part 1 03/1974 25111205870 $64.36 11 Shift lever-upper part 1 08/1973 07/1976 25111220778 $91.80 11 Shift lever-upper part 1 03/1974 25111220778 $91.80 12 Cap 1 03/1974 25111205441 $1.52 13 Circlip 10-ZNS3 1 03/1974 07119904911 $0.27 14 Rubber Ring 1 03/1974 23411666133 $1.77 15 Washer 14X25X2-ZNS3 1 03/1974 34301163613 $0.83 16 Spring washer 1 03/1974 23411666122 $1.75 17 Spacer sleeve 1 03/1974 23411200844 $2.27 18 Compression spring 1 03/1974 23411200845 $1.33 19 Ball Cup upper 2 03/1974 23411466110 $8.01 20 Washer X 03/1974 23411466125 $1.02 20 Washer X 03/1974 23411466126 $0.84 20 Washer X 03/1974 23411466127 $0.80 ENDED 21 Shift lever 1 08/1973 07/1976 25111204381 ENDED 21 Shift lever 1 03/1974 25111220214 ENDED Notes Here's part number six in the diagram. BluntTech Industries • PLASTIC WASHER WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM PLASTIC WASHER I'd also replace the shift rod seal while you're in there. BluntTech Industries • Man. Trans Shift Linkage Seal WWW.BLUNTTECH.COM shift shaft seal 1 per car RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog WWW.REALOEM.COM BMW parts 1502-2002tii 2002 Diagram Selection

That is the late style.

Blunttech.com will have all of them. Then, you can join the fun in this thread.

More discussion here

Nope. The unit is grounded through the two mounting screws. One of those wires is for the running light and the other is for the turn signal. Here's a thread that discusses the conversion.

Looks good from here. I had to lengthen the tail pipe on mine too. That eliminated the exhaust smell inside the cabin.

It's only new once! That said, it'll come back shinier than new. The '74 vac-retard tii was model 0231180013. Send one of these in with it. NLA60210201 Distributor Point Plate Sliding Surface for Advance Weights for all 356 and 912. 61660210201 WWW.STODDARD.COM Point Plate Sliding Surface for advance weights for all 356 and 912. The two rebuilt early-style distributors I've opened up were missing that piece.

Have you measured the resistance in the 123 rotor? (I assume they're a 5Kohm). That's what I'd do. Toss that artificial-intelligence-distributor and don't look back! Which model number is your analog distributor? What do you know about its history? How much axial play does it have? (feeler gauge between gear and body) How will you set the timing? Do you have a variable advance timing light? Will you use points/condenser or Pirtronicks? Will you post photos? Subscribed/followed/liked. Tom

Hi Pablo, I noticed you just clicked this emoji. What is it that you find confusing about my post above. I'd be happy to clarify, if I can. Tom

I read that there was a problem with the plastic rubbing blocks on Bosch points years ago, but was under the impression that it had been taken care of. I also ran them on old VWs and on my 2002 for the past 12 years. I think people tend to put new points in sooner than necessary, since it's easy to do and they're cheap enough; but I've used the same sets of points for years on end without ever having a problem with the rubbing block. I'm not trying to discredit your experience. Thank you for sharing your recommendation. Quality control does seem to have gone to sh!t on a lot of Bosch (and other) parts. It is possible to find new old stock on eBay, but that's not nearly as convenient as sourcing new parts that still maintain quality. I went to Rock Auto and dug up some images of the SMP points for the OP's '68 1600 and for my '76, just for fun. For the 1600, RA gives the Bosch distributor number along with the SMP points. GB4480P for distributor 0231116051 They list another distributor option for the '68 1600 (0231115045), but they don't have SMP points to fit. The points that would fit that one are out of stock. (I'm familiar with the 045 unit, but not the 051). Here are the SMP points that would fit my late model distributor. I see what you're saying about the sturdy design of the rubbing block and the contact surface looks taller too, which seems like a good thing. I tend to think of plastic parts as low quality, when compared to metal, but understand that's an irrational bias in some cases. The rubbing blocks on Bosch points I've used have either plastic or phenolic rubbing blocks. I've always preferred phenolic, (based on the bias mentioned above). When ordering points, I always look at the rubbing block in the image and go for the brown phenolic blocks, instead of the white plastic ones; but the last time I ordered some, I learned that Bosch is now making the plastic part brown, to mimic phenolic! I thought that was a dirty trick.

Could you please be more specific about the rubbing block problem?

While there is some overlap, there are also situations which require specific points, depending on the distributor model. Cars that are fifty + years old may not have the original distributor, so it's better to give the distributor model when asking for parts that will fit. This thread is half of a double-post that Fred made. Tom (Visionaut) gave a link to points which will fit the stock 1600 cast iron distributor in the other thread and it lists other makes that also make use of the same points. Ignition Points Set BMW 1600 2002 1968 Mercedes Benz – JT Outfitters WWW.JTOUTFITTERS.COM

How can he send it to you if he cannot get to it?