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tlapham

Solex
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Everything posted by tlapham

  1. A Shorty header would be easiest, but the IE one i run has great fitment, you would have a lot of other problems if you got that thing to bottom out! (the IE header has a 4-1collector that is 2.5")
  2. I did exactly as described above with scraping the clear coat with a razor blade, then polished using TR-3. it came out great. I did that to the entire hood, roof, and trunk of my E21, came out amazing! I re-polish it about once a year with the TR-3. It took me about a year to finally get it all, it is a slow, painstaking process with the scraping and buffing a little at a time, but if you aren't going to paint anytime soon, its not a bad option.
  3. Yup, classic burning oil at high speed. Not much can be done until you decide to pull the head and refresh everything... some people say that certain additives help swell up the seals... may be worth looking into. Until then, make sure you carry a quart of extra oil around with you all the time, check it often.
  4. I paid: 200 for a decent 4 angle valve job, surface head. 40 for replacing/hand hone guides, refacing seats, valves 25 for blast, pressure test, check for cracks 125 for porting intake Granted i had purchased the parts separately, not sure if that's included but you can save a few bucks if you shop around for your own parts...
  5. I haven't heard of anyone getting over 160 HP with a NA M10... even with Megasquirt and all. Not sure what you can get out of a NA M20 but if you've got the fiberglass to remove the additional weight in front, Especially since you're going to be restoring the body, I would think that the M20 is the easiest route to the numbers you are looking for. (and possibly cheapest, considering the value of the parts you say you have laying around) That way you can focus most of your budget on bodywork and suspension, which i think is more important, with engine choice its hard to make because the car will be fast and fun pretty much any way you do it! Good luck!
  6. That sucks! and definitely not totaled, looks fixable without too much frame issues. In 2010, my girlfriend was hit in the exact same manner by a ford explorer in her nevada 71' 2002... It was definitely totaled... she and her father (He was in the passenger seat) collided heads, she busted through the driver's window, racked up over 20k in hospital bills and the retards didn't even have insurance!!!!!
  7. Also remember that once the engine warms up, the chain elongates slightly, making it looser. I would assume that if you made it too tight, you wouldn't be able to install the chain...
  8. I saw a gorgeous baby blue car and driver while crossing the bay bridge heading into SF on Monday afternoon... Looked like a 71'
  9. Sounds like an ignition problem. Check your plugs, wires, and points if you've got em'
  10. And the future will be filled with automated boxes on wheels... Have you seen the movie Wall-E? very sad, it's not that far away...
  11. You don't actually have to remove the head to swap cams. With the tool, its an easy 1 hr job. Pay a mechanic, you pay 1000 which includes his coffee breaks, health insurance, unemployment, taxes, and the company's cut, plus it will take him 2 weeks to get the job done... If you don't have the tool, (which i did the first few times)it will be a PITA but it can be done in 4 hours depending on how good you are with your hands.
  12. Since you have to ask i would probably say no... Although it can be done in an hour or so with the special tool to push down all the valves at once, and it keeps the rocker arms out of the way. My tii also has a 292 cam, I don't really know what kind of horsepower difference it makes since i've never driven a stock tii, but it doesn't make sense to me. its not like these were slow or something, and a few extra ponies would make a huge difference... I definitely have a hard time troubleshooting and tuning with this cam though, it seems impossible to make her purr at idle and keep it from pinging slightly above 4000 RPM at full throttle. So i live with a lumpy idle and hard cold starts. oh well.
  13. I thought i had the same problem and i replaced the thermostat with an 80C and no difference... It just needs tuned up all the time, very finicky and it goes out of adjustment with the old linkages.
  14. Bavauto had them recently, but it was backordered for 3 months and they finally just refunded me. still looking.... there was one on ebay yesterday that went for pretty cheap, unfortunately i was not near a computer when the final bid went for 50 cents more than my max bid at 35 bucks....
  15. Too heavily modified. These cars get their value from originality, and although it is a better car for the mods it has, it just doesn't bring cash value to the general market. You may wait and eventually get what you want from an enthusiast, but we are few and far between...
  16. have a fun trip, don't forget to bring a snowshovel...
  17. That car is on craigslist: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2797981572.html Dibs on the wheels.
  18. Wow, very interesting! Thanks for sharing!
  19. I'm currently running the same header, but i had to modify the tranny bracket to make it fit properly. I also recommend purchasing the adapter, although it takes some work to make it seal properly...
  20. Most of the seats in these old cars are twisted from people leaning into the backseat with all the weight on the inboard side of the seat... rare to see an original seat that is not twisted to some degree.
  21. Maybe you should take your face to a mechanic. It will be better that way.
  22. There will ALWAYS be some slack. That is what the tensioner is for. If there were no slack, the chain would break.
  23. The number on the original engine block is the same number as the VIN, so it's easy to tell.
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