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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    Time for new shop. 115! Good grief.
  2. Hans
    Thanks for the update. Glad you're able to go. I thought about the brake weights because what else had changed with the wheels. But I thought...no, surely the tech would give them a test spin...how could they miss that...silly me. Good thing you dug further. I don't believe in coincidences.
  3. Hans
    So high zinc? What about rebuilt M10s?
  4. Hans
    So what oil should we use? Not Castrol?
  5. Hans
    When #1 is at TDC, see where the pulley marks are relative to pointer. You should be able to make new marks if need be. I'd file a notch too. Highlight marks on Flywheel. Piston design is part of the equation too - crank, rods, piston.
  6. Hans
    Are people peening with the flat or round end of the hammer?
  7. Hans
    Not that I'm aware of. As I said, TDC is TDC. When piston #1 is at its highest point. If you get a dial gauge , you can see the slight pause as it passes by reversing direction. The shorter rods are offset by longer crank throw so the piston tops end up in more or less the same place, since as far as I know, blocks are the same. You could mount flywheel with one snug bolt to check it. I would mark both and then see which is more convenient to use. Or buy fancy timing light. I would add marks for 10 deg and 33 deg. on both
  8. Hans
    If #1 piston is at the top of the bore and the pulley is lined up, I'd say you're looking good. But to be exact, find a dial gauge. Or method above. There is a kind od dead zone as it hits the top and starts down the other side. HF sells cheap ones with magnetic stand. Or just put you r fingers on top of the piston and block. I prefer using pulley marks only because they are easier to see. Add 33 deg mark to either. Regardless of rod length, TDC is TDC. Make sure your cam is TDC for firing stroke.
  9. Hans
    Hope that solves it. Let us know exactly what happened to the wheels.
  10. Hans
    That's what I've been trying to tell you! Sound of head thumping on desk.
  11. Hans
    Also get a squirrel cage synchronizer to balance carbs. I would not use soft mount gaskets, but YMMV.
  12. Hans
    Thanks. I ended up ordering from the dealer with my 10% club discount, itwas about the same as shipping in from US.
  13. Hans
    Different boot, sadly. I'd be looking for assymetric CV joints. You might get lucky. Or 10 hole flanges. Seems to me older VWs use these.
  14. Hans
    It's possible a drum fell off, and then got jammed back on - was the hand brake on? Try to imagine what might happen while someone tried to finese it back on with a big hammer. As i said, I'd first be looking for things that got screwed up during R&R, and then your work since. I have to think that problems with most of parts you are replacing would have been evident on the drive to the shop. I was also wondering if they picked it up in a bad place but that wouldnt account for the noise . I guess at this point, it may be the only solution. Can you get someone to turn the rear wheels wile you listen to the backing plate with a stethoscope for noise?
  15. Hans
    It's possible a drum fell off, and then got jammed back on - was the hand brake on? As i said, I'd first be looking for things that got screwed up during R&R, then your work since.
  16. Hans
    As above, i'd be looking for things that might have got thumped by a wheel - like a drum - that might have moved something inside. Also the rear shoe adj. I would want no drag.
  17. Hans
    Don't forget the clutch line. So everythung worked fine, shop does R&R on wheels, brakes start to chatter? Problem could be a result of work, or maybe just a coincidence, but I'd be reviewing work first. I'd expect no drag after adjusting shoes.
  18. Hans
    As I said above, the flooding washes oil off the cyl walls. A good idea to start with adding a bit of oil thru plug hole to avoid dry start.
  19. Hans
    Running out of colours. The potential strarting /running problem with the gasket is letting air in. There is plenty of gas available to leak. But you don't want that. But as I have said several times, the leak appears to be also from above the gasket. For now, order a new gasket. You may need to remove the top cover gasket so get that too. I know nothing about 123. Did it not come with instructions? Before you replace it, back to basics on ignition. Once again, make sure #1 is firing at correct TDC ( maybe a few deg defore). That should get the motor started if every thing else is OK. But by now the engine is terminally flooded, so you need to pull plugs and let it air out. Then pour into each plug hole a small amount of oil - maybe 3 ml - before trying to start. All that gas will wash to oil off the cyl walls.
  20. Hans
    Did you read all of my comments above? If the gasket IS faulty, it may let air in. May. I should have said possibly. Depends on how far gone it is. But I doubt it's the magic bullet . As I said, that gas appears to be coming from above the gasket. Find source. Again, are you sure you have set correct tdc? Please review comments in red and recent questions. What is that black thing connected to the scuzzy round bit on the carb?
  21. Hans
  22. Hans
    What four holes are we talking about? And LED. The idea of pulling a plug and grounding it is (a) to see if there is a spark, and (b) to see If spark happens near TDC. You can do this by turning the motor over manually, or by turning the dizzy. Picture the rotor turning clockwise (normal direction) towards the #1 contact in the cap; when it gets there, the plug should spark (ignition on). Then picture instead turning the distributor counter clockwise towards #1 from the other direction, having turned it clockwise first to move past #1 contact.. It will spark #1. I assume 123 works the same. But i'm not familiar with 123 TDC setting. I thought you got the engine running pretty well. When you had the original dizzy in there, did you explore the other suggestions to improve starting, running, etc. Problem now is that you may have introduced another variable without confirming that the old dizzy was to blame.
  23. Hans
    get battery fully charged. Make sure battery connections are clean. Pull #1 plug and see if it sparks when grounded and turning over. Do you have Quick Start spray where you are? You need spark and fuel to start. Car ran, you change dizzy, car doesnt run. That should guide you investigation. That's exactly why I suggested you get car running first.
  24. Hans
    what is it at 2000 rpm?
  25. Hans
    Keep in mind that those bolts have to be perfectly oriented for re ar alignment can be accurate.
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