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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    My question was whether the bubbles appeared for just teh first bit of pedal, or for the whole travel? There is a spec for adjusting the pushrod. You want to be sure the pistons are fully retracted with no pedal pressure. Pay close attention to suggestions above. The idea with bleed nipples is to open as little as possible, and close before pressure drops completely. I'm trying to figure out where the air is coming from to get back up to MC and the resevoir. Its a long way from caliper to MC.
  2. Hans
    so when you push the pedal, you get bubbles in the resevoir? Just at first or all the way? Did you adjust pushrod? I think Centric does rebuilt brake parts. Certainly the case with calipers.
  3. Hans
    My understanding is that those bolts are just to keep the rotor from falling off during R&R.
  4. Hans
    Are you interested in Used?
  5. Hans
    Yhe first question woulod be whether you got the right parts.
  6. Hans
    So not pushed through hole far enough. Maybe bracket needs to be realigned/wiggled? New pic shows rubber so it is correct I guess. Pig.
  7. Hans
    Does the rubber washer not go outside? The whole thing doesnt look like its through the hole. Cocked a bit?
  8. Hans
    Thought I had a new one. A plethora of driveshaft joints. Ill look again tomorrow. Meanwhile, here is more info. https://www.amazon.ca/33211205310-Universal-Joint-U-Joint-26X69/dp/B00GUSB032 I have a used one if that helps.
  9. Hans
    I'm heading out to the garage soon. 9deg F! warming up. Boiling water, shoe horn and spoon. Just be careful you don't tear the boot on the T end opposite of where you are sliding boot over. You really have to stretch the bugger. I think I tried it with the end cap but that made it too big. Get shaft in a vice. Wire brush mounting area and use crocus clth to polish the area where small end sits. Inspect big end cup for signs of overheating or bluing. Check walls for gouging. I stand them up overnight with U joint up to test for leaks.
  10. Hans
    Be very gentle opening and handling the big clamp. NLA as I recall.
  11. Hans
    I would certainly clean up the joints and test them before replacing. didnt early ones come with grease nipples?
  12. Hans
    Have you done boots before?
  13. Hans
    There were regular CV joints made in that pattern but scarce. You might try looking for them. Or rebuild. I'll look tomorrow for the U joint, but a big bearing shop may be able to match up your old one. The big O-ring was available a few years ago, or said bearing shop might make one for you. I assume the boots are still available. Looks like you best get the diff seals too. Somebody on here or NK page rebuilds long necks and has a kit. I've done half a dozen shafts before I found correct Cv joi nts. Or drill hubs for 6 even and use common 02 cv halfshafts.
  14. Hans
    Anybody there?
  15. Hans
    And the holes?
  16. Hans
    And different driveshaft. Are your hubs drilled with 10 holes? Or 3+3? Give me part number for joint - I may have one. If you didnt drive without lube, should be fine.
  17. Hans
    Well OK, but 1400 rpm isnt really idle speed. You should be able to get a stock cam car to idle under 1k reasonably smoothly. Mine will do that at 600 rpm on the car tach - with 40s. You need a squirrel cage synch tool. I would also adjust the valves before doing more.
  18. Hans
    That's what I found. But it sure didnt seem happy on my first try.
  19. Hans
    A little late now, but the studs in the head look a bit short, while the ones holding on the carbs look really long. You may have To use spacers
  20. Hans
    Do you mean the spiral Thackeray washers? Yes, those are missing and are neccesary on all studs. The ones I can see look too tight. There is a spec that requires a feeler gauge. Anothet reason I don't like them. There was a thread recently on those soft mounts.
  21. Hans
    Comingg back to the soft mounts, and I'm not a fan, they need to be equally tightened top and bottom. Which is not easy when installed. Try the spray. I prefer paper gaskets, but YMMV. What kind of balancer do you have?
  22. Hans
    I had same problem. Tried several pickups, with and without dowels. Be sure to tighten diagonally and in stages. I probably did it a dozen times before it felt smooth. Can't recall if I used dowels. Mine had the metal plate.
  23. Hans
    Ok. But those are too short? I would try fastener store or home depot loews etc.
  24. Hans
    You mean gold colour?
  25. Hans
    Does the old bolt have 8.8 or 10.9 on the head? That will be a guide. 8.8 is "normal" spec for bolt. You just need somthing that looks similar with similar grade. It could be SAE if push came to shove. I THINK 8.8 is Grade 5. Or It could be a bit longer. Where I live there are several big fastener stores that sell individual bolts of all sizes and specs. There are very few bolts that I would source from the dealer. This is not one of them. maybe somebody can mail you some - cost prohibative from here. That said, whats wrong with the old ones??
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