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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
  2. Hans
    the dizzy lobes that open the points only come into play when adjusting the gap. After that, ignore them. Is the picture is of t he pulley from under car? Not clear if that is the pointer or the tdc mark. The tdc is usually marked OT. Usually visible from above on crank pulley with real pointer. Otherwise Look for it on flywheel . Are you sure you have tdc on firing stroke for # 1? A Do you have an old plug in #1 wire to check for spark? The plug should fire as you pass tdc. Or try the method of turning the dizzy that I described above. The 25 deg ball requires the engine to running. You could alsu use the timing light connected to #1 wire for static check.
  3. Hans
    You need to look for lines/marks on the crank pully - further down. See if there is a pointer on the engine front. If not, should be one on the flywheel visible thru the little window behind the head. I think there were pictures in the shop manual link. Look for "OT"mark. Points are adjusted with little pad resting on one of the four lobes. Your side to side is a bit excessive, but should get it started. Some people use Petronix unit because that smooths things out. The 123 might do the same, but I'd deal with that later. RE- read what I said above about turning the engine thru tdc and watching for the #1 plug to spark. Di you remove the dizzy for any reason??
  4. Hans
    "Rotor: Yes a little bit, but everything looks stable, no cracks or so. Rotor hitting cap ... that was my question if amount of play in shaft could cause this." Yes a litle bit what? More likely rotor not installed properly. But that's why I keep pestering you for side to side shaft play and report on other three terminal posts.
  5. Hans
    Engine electrical section. Further to above, some cars have tdc marks on front pulley, some on the flywheel.
  6. Hans
    I rely on the old adage that 90% of your carb problems are electric. I speak from experience. Not saying it isn't the carb, but I would be making sure igntion system is functioning properly before adding a new variable. Sitting for 2 years with a load of ethanol gas won't help. You may need to clean out carb, replace filter. That mark on the dizzy edge can be anywhere. For various reasions, it usually ends up facing the fender. The critical thing is rotor under #1 plug wire. OP, what do the other cap terminals look like? How is the side to side wiggling of the center shaft?
  7. Hans
    I had a senior moment. This won't work with automatic. Duh! Push down on the fan belt between the water pump and the alternator to add tension, then turn fan. engine turns clockwise viewd from front. Don't break the fan! If you remove the plugs its easier to turn, but I try to remove them as little as possible. If you have to turn backwards, turn 1/4 - 1/2 revolution. Plug should fire as tdc line passes pointer. The other way is to get engine at tdc, rotor lined up with notch on dizzy rim, #1 plug wire terminal over the rotor. That's pretty close. Now, ignition on, old plug in #1 wire as described above, turn dizzy body 1.5 cm clockwise, then slowly back counterclockwise. Plug will fire. Stop there. Confirm rotor is under #1. Tighten dizzy bolt. Now, In order to help you, we need you to provide the things being asked for in the posts. That means answering the questions, confirming what you've done, etc. So please go back my last post and do that.
  8. Hans
    Let's slow things down a bit. All good advice but we're getting into severe scope creep. Lets see if the car will run. I asked before: when did the car last run right and what has changed since then? Is that a pic of the inside of the cap with broken plastic? Is there other damage. Rotor hitting cap? You can check the coil with a multi meter but but if #1 plug gives good spark, prob ok. I would try to get car running first. Save carb rebuild until you try. Same with vacuum leaks. Have you set the timing so #1 sparks at tdc for # 1 cyl on firing stroke? Pull #1 wire, put an old plug in it. Attach to ground. Push car in 4th gear to turn over engine. Better with two people. Or push down on fan belt and use fan for short bits. There is a way to do it by turning the distributor but I'll save that for later. How old is the gas? Best to diagnose the problem before throwing parts at the car. Search on here for setting timing.
  9. Hans
    I vaguely recall burning points being possibly caused by weak condensor. Vague. Pertronix can help smooth that out.
  10. Hans
    You need to make sure #1 plug is firing at TDC (when #1 cyl is at TDC for firing stroke). This procedure is in Haynes, articles on here, and Factory manual which is on here somewhere. Clean points so they are smooth. Did the car run well in recent past? Continued cranking with no start can flood the engine.
  11. Hans
    I'll try this once more and then leave to your research. I can see no connection between your stated symptoms and your advance curve. Is there some reason you want to replace your dizzy? Unless the bushings are shot, it should start the car. Do you have a timing light? Have you checked the current timing at TDC? You can also check this using the static method. Are you getting a healthy spark? Is the timing fairly stable? Does it appear to be advancing when you blip the throttle? Your symptoms don't cry out "timing advance problem" to me as long as it's in the ball park at TDC. Have you checked conditions of points, rotor, gap/dwell etc.? Is the rotor on firmly? Now by replaving the dizzy, you may solve the problem inadvertently, but it may be simpler to use what you got. Then are the carb problems that could cause your symptoms....
  12. Hans
    Having marked the two halves for indexing
  13. Hans
    I missed the bit about new plugs and wires. What about points, dwell, condensor, cap? I would be checking a few basics before plunging down this 123 rabbit hole, as interesting as it may be. Do you have a timing light? Have you checked the current set-up? Are you getting a healthy spark? Is the timing fairly stable? Your symptoms don't cry out "timing problem to me" as long as it's in the ball park.
  14. Hans
    I see Rogers tii has them. Maybe support our vendors?
  15. Hans
    Why not try to get the car running with the stock dizzy. First try to wiggle shaft side to side to check for wear. If OK, how are points, cap, wires, plugs? How are you setting/checking timing? It might be carb related, but I'd sort out ignition first.
  16. Hans
    If thats what you get. I used generic on my 2000CS without shame. Who would know the difference? Whatever lets you sleep at night.
  17. Hans
    Number 6 appears to be flat style, but first pic is round. I just used two generic cables.
  18. Hans
    20 bucks at your local big box auto store.
  19. Hans
    Is that 50 bucks for one round cabl with no pigtail?
  20. Hans
    I'm interested
  21. Hans
    Sorry, i missed that part! I vaguely recall an Alpine brochure for 2002 with four rims that looked like that. Maybe look for that.
  22. Hans
    Did you consider looking for the specs on the rim as I suggested? Seem easy enough......
  23. Hans
    The rim specs should be stamped/cast on the rim somewhere.
  24. Hans
    Does 123 have rev limiter rotor?
  25. Hans
    After physically checking that the tdc marks are synced, I would suggest 33 all in at about 3k rpm to start. You need to pull valve cover and eye ball things. I had suggested calling MM.
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