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wkohler

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Everything posted by wkohler

  1. That is probably on the high side of fair in today’s market. If the wheel is truly nice I think it could be worth that. It is a very early one with painted spokes and the earlier hub with the added slip ring.
  2. Given it has the snorkel nose, the radiator aperture would have had to be modified to fit the Turbo radiator so I don’t think that would be a definitive indicator. I don’t really understand why you’d paint a Chamonix turbo Polaris. Given the obvious quality of the repaint I imagine it wasn’t a super-thorough bare-metal job so there should be some remnants of the original Chamonix somewhere. or... Someone picked a vin and bet on silver.
  3. Yeah that was the first ‘02 on BaT that really brought a strong number. It came down to that particular car and obviously Malaga. That said, the next time it was offered in 2018, it only did mid 50s.
  4. Spacing is off, it’s not the right font and it’s not even level. Snorkel nose with poor repaint under the hood. Engine stamping is not original either but there is a handmade-looking X on the right side. Not sure what to read into that.
  5. It would have been dimly lit. Haha. I certainly hope that once I get my tii running I could use it regularly. I have a lot of other cars though.
  6. I understand that and it makes sense. For some it's the hunt and the process and the fact they accomplished something. It could be why I keep buying cars that need a lot of work. ?
  7. Like I said I don't have the answers to the questions. I just ask a lot of questions. I could be on Jeopardy, but I'd probably ask the wrong questions.
  8. I'm not questioning the value of the car or the economics of restorations done properly. If someone sinks $100k into restoring a Pontiac 1000, I don't think they should be expecting that back and I don't think 2002s are at a point where every restoration dollar should be recouped. I typed out a ton of stuff that contradicted my first statement. I guess I'm still stuck on the "why is this car for sale?" It hasn't been finished long at all (only a handful of miles added) I know what it takes to do excellent quality work and I also know it takes almost as much effort to do a crap job. I just didn't see the idea of selling unless there was tremendous upside. Maybe there was and I just overvalued all the work I saw or tried to factor in time and opportunity cost. Maybe the idea of having a "perfect" tii was better in theory than in reality ("It could get scratched, stolen, breathed on wrong") I don't know. These are questions only the seller could answer and as long as he is satisfied with the result, that's all that matters.
  9. Really surprised that this car with the colors, history, etc didn’t do better. The original owner was pretty nutty with his pricing plus add to that all the expense and time of doing that level of restoration. Not saying I know what the right number should be but seems to me the buyer got a deal.
  10. You're right it's definitely not something I'd want to set up all the time. In fact, for that reason, it spent a lot of time sitting in my garage. The theory was way better than the execution I guess. It's not particularly hard to setup, but it is more of a time investment than jackstands. That said, I spend a lot of time on my jack stands and once this is up it is much more useful. It's more-or-less been permanently installed on a slab behind my garage since last September. I initially set it up there and would take it in and out of the garage and then I had an issue with the power unit. Dannmar cancelled my warranty when I sent them the video because it was installed outside. After some fighting with them I got them to reverse that decision because their marketing said it was ideal for people without garages due to its portability. Then they went out of business. One of the things that I've seen several people do is set it up so one column is not in the way of anything and doesn't have to be moved.
  11. It's just an asking price. Obviously a copy/tribute/salute to RoyW's S14-powered 2002 that brought $125k on the BaTs. You'll note some similarities in key details. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-bmw-2002tii-11/
  12. Dannmar is out of business. Their IP and stuff for the MaxJax was sold to BendPak. I have the Dannmar M6 myself, which is probably as close a product to the current MaxJax with automatic locks, etc. It works well-enough (It's Chinese, of course) and is portable (obviously you have to install anchors and bolt it down, but you don't have to leave it setup). On the really low cars, I will drive up onto some 2x8s and that does just about all I need to get the arms under. depending on where I want them placed. It gives you a lot of the functionality of the 2-post lift, you can sit under it on a stool or you can put it on the bottom lock and have tons of room to remove transmissions or whatever. I will also on occasion put jackstands under the arms and lower them all the way. That way I can keep the car stored in a lower position but not be holding it on the hydraulics or have to worry about resetting the car, etc.
  13. Wow what a shame! Wealth of knowledge and I was really looking forward to sending him some injectors. Very sorry to hear this.
  14. This is the car. That’s why this thread got brought back.
  15. The wheel is definitely E21. 5.5x13 ET18. Pretty late date code, cant tell if its 10/76 or 10/78. Looking at the photo of the car from the thread when it was on eBay suggests it was wearing E21 wheels at that time.
  16. Looks like a really nice car. Obviously, there are some minor issues, but what restoration is actually, really, truly perfect? No one can recreate the assembly line environment and you're working with at best NOS parts, restorable 50+ year-old parts or things that BMW Classic say work. It says a lot when the quibbles are details of finishes on a few parts (sure the latches on the airbox were plated, but they were painted after it was assembled). The rear window latches are minor, easily fixed as are the missing white caps over the screws. I'd have put real Hella lamps in the car - especially one with reproduction XAS tires. Spare wheel is actually an E21 steelie. Rear of the sunroof seal should be on the panel, not the roof. None of that is permanent. One thing I'm curious about is the overspray on the fuel tank. At first I thought it was the lighting but then it didn't move.
  17. Interesting on that note. BaT recently sold a Delorean with a Kia Stinger drivetrain and several other custom things. Car shown at the Quail, etc. Sold for $243k. Hagerty writes a story on it and features it on Instagram. The seller of the car comments about how rich it was they were using his car for content and that they wouldn’t insure the car for more than $80k, which I’m sure is less than the cost of the build without the cost of the delorean. I assume his receipts weren’t enough? What if you’re a tremendously talented person that makes your own parts and don’t have receipts for that? I wonder how cars with specific provenance (like “this car is Stevie Nicks’ burgundrot E23 733i”) or a high dollar custom build are insured.
  18. I had mostly written up a post replying to Carl but I got sidetracked and never finished. Decided to go a bit broader since this is important. I know people use the term “stated value” when talking about these insurers but what you really are going for is “agreed value” insurance. Stated value works just like any other insurance but puts a cap on the payout. It’s done to lower premiums. Agreed value actually is setup to where if there’s a total loss of the vehicle, that’s what they pay you. Basically if you have a Ferrari 250 GTO and don’t want to pay premiums for a $40m car, you can cap the value at say $2m which could cover most any damage (Illustration purposes) and pay more manageable premiums. If you want to insure the car so you get the value if something happens, make sure it’s agreed value coverage.
  19. I would at a minimum make sure all your connections at the coil and the ballast resistor are correct and clean, make sure the plugs aren't wet, read up on the ol' points, clean up the contacts, set the gap then test for spark (plug or a screwdriver in the end of plug wire with metal grounded to valve cover or similar).
  20. Can you post a few photos of what you have? Is the shell a roller or are the subframes off?
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