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jhenard

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Everything posted by jhenard

  1. jhenard
    After replacing the odometer gears I had to do adjust mine. I checked it versus a GPS unit to see how far it was off. I had speedo out of the cluster but connected to the cable for my testing. You will have to disassemble the speedo to get to the backside. I had to lift the needle over the bottom peg to get it to its "resting" point. I then marked the current location and the new location for the correct speed with painters tape so it wouldn't muck up the surface. I assumed a linear relationship across the range for the spring. So 6 mph difference is roughly equal to the space between 30 mph and 36 mph further up the scale. This is how I figured the distance to move the needle. This may not be precision engineering but it worked for me. I pulled the needle off and replaced it at the new new mark. If I remember correctly, I held the cup in the back and pulled the needle gently straight off without much twisting. I really didn't want to do this more than once as I am not sure how many cycles are allowed before the needle starts slipping. Only had to do it once and I am within 1 or 2 mph of the GPS depending on needle oscillations so I am happy.
  2. jhenard
    e-mail sent
  3. jhenard
    Zac, Be careful if you are using sand. Silica dust is dangerous and can cause silicosis http://www.manleybros.com/safety2.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis I would think about another type of media instead
  4. jhenard
    Zac, You can pick up the fittings at HD or Lowes, Check out the Eastwood Co chart for types of media and their use http://www.eastwood.com/techlib-bmchrt And the look at Northern Tool (you have two on your side of town) or Harbor Freight for media. Explore how to capture the media since you will go through it.
  5. jhenard
    Mike - thanks for the suggestion. I am going to reassmble and try in the car one last time before I take apart the circuit. John - I am using a power supply that puts out 13.8v but is limited to 3 amps so I will test in the car just in case the amperage draw is higher. So does anyone know the coil rating (mH) or have specs on the circuit? Anyone have a working coil they want to get rid of? Thanks,
  6. jhenard
    John and Mike, Thanks for your thoughts. The clock oil was applied with a long tube (WD-40 style extension) that came on the oil vial. Hopefully the oil didn't migrate but who knows. Mike - Do you mean the spring on the contacts lobe that turns the gear to the right of the lobe? That is working and holds its position on the gear. Am I understanding correctly? I can advance the lobe manually and it starts working again. Thanks,
  7. jhenard
    All, I have a ’72 Keinzle Motometer electromechanical clock. The mechanicals work fine and were even oiled with clock oil. The electrical charge circuit is the problem. There is a small spark at contact closing but the circuit does not restart/recharge the mechanical sequence. I repaired the fusible link first with regular solder and then replaced with low temp solder (70°C). The contacts were filed and alignment checked. The resistor is good (as well as a substitute put in – if anyone cares resistor is 48.8W on mine). There is continuity throughout the circuit and the test power supply has been tested for proper output. I have read over every article I could find on this (2002FAQ, VW, Porsche, clock forums, etc.) and can’t find any details on the electricals (so no kittens here). My hypothesis is that the coil has shorted across several windings. Does this sound reasonable or is there something I have overlooked? What is the value of the inductor? Anyone replaced one? Anyone have a good one laying around in a bad clock they will part with? TIA, --John
  8. jhenard
    I think I read the 02 is his son's
  9. jhenard
    The photos on 2002AD and Jaymic appear to have the grommet supplied with the speedo cable
  10. jhenard
    Jim, Another option is to replace the internals with modern stuff. Not sure if he handles German but one possible option I have seen in the British car circles is http://taymanelectrical.com/ Look for his FM stereo conversion page.
  11. jhenard
    All, I also won an auction from this seller. It took 14 days from paying with Paypal to receiving the item. They also had USPS issues with me in that tracking numbers were listed but USPS never got the package. After 2 e-mails I finally got the item. Don't expect much/any communication or coherence. Glad to get the item and close that book. She is off my list. --John
  12. jhenard
    The pen has a flat chisel tip that rides nicely on the flat surface of the surround. I had the rings out of the cluster so it was easy to apply and remain shake free. I had one oops but I wiped it off quickly so no issues. The instructions say you can clean up with acetone if needed. I put on two light coats letting dry overnight in between. Really, it was simple. I found the pen at Hobby Lobby but you can try any craft store such as Michaels. You would have to really pay attention to the cluster to notice it is not chrome.
  13. jhenard
    Dirk, I just reworked my instument cluster and agree that I could not duplicate the chrome on the surrounds. I did find a Krylon silver leafing pen that comes close. If ends up looking more like a brushed aluminum but it was an improvement over the splotchy chrome that remained. $6 and ten minutes - big improvement
  14. jhenard
    Interested in orange fog switch if you still have it and it works. --John
  15. jhenard
    Chipper, Here is a local option if you are considering the outsource route. I have no info or prices just ran across their website when considering options for my '72 http://www.eco-clean.com/blasting.htm --John
  16. jhenard
    A good neoborhood is where the Feds come in. A bad neighborhood calls SWAT
  17. jhenard
    e-mail sent on tool kit
  18. jhenard
    Tech nerds enjoy - http://www.vehiclesforgarminnuvi.com/ No 2002s yet but some classic BMWs like an M6 and a racing M3 that you can load into your Nuvi Haven't found a 2002 on the web yet. Let me know if one is out there.
  19. jhenard
    Thanks C.D. for the confirmation I beleive the Tii register catalog pdf may be close to the printed version you reference. It will be a good proxy until I can get a printed copy. Thanks, --John
  20. jhenard
    C.D., Blunt et al, What is the most current source for gathering part numbers (other than the dealer of course)? I reference the sources below in order but I often find different numbers (assuming due to superceded numbers) 1. Tii register parts catalog - since it has more diagrams 2. Max 3. RealOEM 4. BMWfans What is closest to be the most current to reference instead bombing the list. In searching the forum, most reference RealOEM or just bomb the list. Thanks --John
  21. jhenard
    Here is the Behr material from the tii register http://www.thetiiregister.com/phpmyfaq/index.php?action=artikel&cat=220445&id=2&artlang=en --John
  22. jhenard
    Arden, The Zenith Stromberg was a mainstay of the Triumph world for the US cars. I think most everything with 6 cylinders had a twin ZS set-up. That being said they are basic and as sexy as white bread. Upgrades in the Triumph world go to SU carbs and then Webers (although some use mikuni's) as you move up the power band. I have one on my Triumph and there is not much tweaking that you can do other than damper oils and the temparature compensator. If you go that route there is an ample supply base however. Hope this helps. --John
  23. jhenard
    PKB, Interested in the rings. What condition are they in? Thanks, --John
  24. jhenard
    Can you e-mail pictures of door panels if black Thanks
  25. jhenard
    You can get the Repair Manual on DVD from BavAuto (www.bavauto.com)- and it runs on Vista (Enterprise on my machine) and XP Pro. Have not compared it to the blue books. I would also download the parts manual from the Tii registry (www.tiiregister.com). I am frequently looking things up here. Pick up the wiring diagrams as well here. Get comfortable using the site search as there is tremendous info in this forum. --J
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