Jump to content

WBeaumont

Solex
  • Posts

    97
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by WBeaumont

  1. There is obviously an overlap between where they both work fine and neither are particularly beneficial. On a road going 02 I don't think that you will be too wrong with either 40's or 45's. Race engines, if you can't run ITB's, then you want 45's or maybe 48's... why not?
  2. Will an adapter plate not do then? I have a friend who could machine me a nice plate without too much trouble. A bit of hammering doesn't sound too bad. I don't suppose you have the a scan of that particular page in the workshop manual? Thanks Will
  3. My Dad revealed to me today that he has a range of dog-leg 1st ZF 5spd gearboxes. Direct top and overdrive. He used to race Lotus Sunbeams and they had 'em. So I have a few questions; I am sure that there will be bellhousing and mounting issues (things are rarely that simple) but on the 5 speed option on the 2002 did the ZF box fit in the standard tunnel size? I am not about to embark on any huge bodywork or tranny tunnel modifications at the moment. If it is a reasonably simple task without any huge bodywork issues then as my engine is out I may try one out. Thanks.
  4. I agree go big but forget the bumper all together and use the bumper mounts! A get a bit of wobble (I am running Bilstiens and harder springs) but I don't have anything between the brackets... yet. The things Cibie supply are ace mine are mounted on the vertical surface either side of the radiator.
  5. 14X6.5 Minilites, -40mm lowering springs, bilstiens & fixed camber plates.
  6. I like this sump! Anyone know anymore/where i can get one. Alfa style, with cooling fins.
  7. I have twin dellortos wouldn't change them for the world. Never had a problem starting. Fuel economy is a bit rubbish but that is because of my heavy right foot. My vote goes for side drafts.
  8. Yes i do like an early 911 too, has to be pre-impact bumpers though. Standard... what's that? This is the best thing to do to a later 911.
  9. I thought about this too as i want to get my hands on an 02again manifold but wasn't sure if it would clear the steering box. They look really nice but every time i look at a picture i convince myself either way. Has no one done it?
  10. Get rid! That knee mould is my worst night-mare, i cannot wait to get rid of mine. Also i would loose all the bumpers: front, back, euro, US...
  11. 40 or 45 DCOEs or Dellorto DHLAs. I have 40 DHLAs, my engine is pretty much stock just higher compression and i wouldn't change them for the world. The noise is worth it.
  12. I have 30 chokes on my 40DHLA Dellortos. I think i would benefit from some slightly bigger chokes, help it breathe a bit more at the top of the rev range but as my car is a street car and i run a standard cam i think i will stay with the 30s. I don't think 32 is too big but i would research into how larger you will have to go with your jets and stuff. Did you originally set up your carbs on a rolling road or was it just an educated guess?
  13. I bought it from an Ebay shop, here. It is very nice, it didn't quite clear my old fuel pump so i had to file a semi circular bit off it but then i ended up replacing the pump which didn't get anywhere near it. They are genuine 14x6 minilites. I don't really like this photo, i think it makes the wheels look too big, but it does show the wheels quite well. The Alfa is my dad's, it is going to be quite a while before that is back on the road.
  14. Surely even a roll bar would be safer in any car than not having one. I think you are just as likely to bump your head on the roof if it had caved in as you are on a cage. I have a fine scar across my head where i hit my head on a roll-cage in an accident on the road, i can assure you that i am pretty grateful for this. If the cage hadn't been there who knows what might have happened.
  15. Once you get one you wont care about the mileage or anything else. I think as older cars go they are reliable, they are much better put together than an Alfa or old Ford.
  16. Super SUPER rare! I think it is a 250 GT Boana or Ellena (not a SWB they are even nicer).
  17. If you are going to run it without bumpers then you could mount a numberplate over the holes but with a 15-20mm gap so you keep a bit extra air intake but hide the holes. Ive seen it done at the rear on beetles but i cant find a picture.
  18. Right, at the moment my car is close to being back on the road but i have timing issues. At the moment i have twin carbs on a BMW ti inlet manifold and a vacuum advance distributor (which could be crap and need overhauling, when it was on my 1602 a lot of the problems we put down to timing and it is from a '75 which from what i have picked up is not a good thing for a distributor) which the vacuum bit isn't connected to anything. I do have another vacuum advance distributor from a '73 2002 touring. What do i do: -buy a tii mechanical advance distributor at quite a high cost, probably too much? -spend some time plumbing in one of my vacuum advance distributors? -if so which one? -or do i convert to pertronixs electrical ignition*? Will *small question about pertronix on a vacuum advance distributor; do you need to have the diaphragm connected up if you have removed the points and replaced it with a petronix kit? does it still use the vacuum advance? if so how? That wasn't a small question i know i am sorry, it wasn't even a series of small questions saying it just softened the blow.
  19. WBeaumont

    MPG

    Its not what you drive but how you drive! Jeremy Clarckson drives an M3 against a Prius. I know this is far from the definitive answer but it does illustrate (kind of) a very good point.
  20. I took the engine out, flipped it over and took off the sump to find that i had indeed put the plunger/rod thing in the wrong way. Panic over. I have just got the engine back in, what an absolute bastard! I cant believe how hard it is, when i put it in the first time i lowered the body onto the engine, gearbox and subframe all mated together already. That way may have been a bit excessive to just re-assemble the pressure release valve. I will hopefully start it again tomorrow. That will be the real test! Then i will update the project blog. Thanks. You guys have been a great help.
  21. I replaced the pump so i am working with a new pump. There may be a chance that i put it together correctly but it is still jamming? How would i test it? just push it? I think i am going to get the engine out, if i have to take it off its mounts then it might as well come out. It will give me a chance to clean up all this oil. Thank you so much.
  22. Went for the inaugural start earlier and just as it started (for those few seconds it sounded glorious, why would anyone chose not to have twin carbs?) then oil went everywhere! The seal to the oil filter had been pushed out and oil hit the front pulley and fan causing it to go flying. Me and Dad put it down to the seal not located properly when we installed it. We thought what a rookie mistake popped it back on and tried again (obviously after we had topped up the oil we lost). Second attempt and the same thing happened. Oil pressure release valve. It must be, we had spent a while putting it together and we used two separate workshop manuals to assemble it. Neither of which seemed to have the same oil pump as we had but assumed we had put it together correctly because we had used our common sense. Oh dear, it was fraught with danger from the beginning. Does any one have a diagram of actually how to put assemble the pressure release valve. I seem to have a spring, plunger/rod and a hollow cylinder with one end blocked off and a chamfer on the corner. It is going on a '73 2 litre engine. Also can you remove the sump with the engine still in? Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...