Mark92131

Last week, while preparing the S14 for first start, I pulled the plugs and valve cover to oil up the valve train and cylinders. Used the starter to spin the motor trying to build some oil pressure. No joy after several, 30 second sessions. No movement on the oil pressure gauge and the oil light stayed on. While inspecting the oil pressure gauge wiring, i noticed an oil leak on the floor under the oil filter housing. I put the car on the lift and inspected the bottom of the oil filter housing, sure enough, one of the fittings to the oil cooler was leaking at the M18 to AN-10 adapter on the housing. I installed these adapters earlier when the engine was out of the car and I had plenty of room. With the motor installed, my plenty of room became no room to get a 27mm wrench on the adapter to remove it. I ended up pulling the entire housing (3, 13mm bolts) to remove the old M18 to AN-10 adapters and installed some new Evil Energy ones with 24mm flanges for better clearance. The leaking ones had copper crush washers, the new ones had NBR rubber O-rings. Installed them and decided to order a new M12 x 1.5 BMW 2002 Oil pressure switch. It was probably the leaking adapter that prevented the oil housing to not pressurize enough to trigger the oil pressure light or oil pressure gauge, but I'll install the new oil pressure switch when it arrives on Monday. Mark92131

If you want them out of your garage, I'll come get them ;-). Mark92131

The clothes pins worked well for my trunk seal, but I ordered 2 sets of these for my headliner. Mark92131 Amazon.com : 40 PCS Garden Clips, Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Greenhouse Clamps, Greenhouse Clips for Netting, Have a Strong Grip to Hold Down The Shade Cloth or Plant Cover on Garden Hoops or Greenhouse Hoops : Patio, Lawn & Garden WWW.AMAZON.COM Amazon.com : 40 PCS Garden Clips, Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Greenhouse Clamps, Greenhouse Clips for Netting, Have a Strong Grip to Hold Down The Shade Cloth or Plant Cover on Garden Hoops or Greenhouse Hoops : Patio, Lawn & Garden

I used one of these for the vacuum feeds on my S14 ITB's. The dampened vacuum signal is connected to a 1Bar GM MAP sensor. You will need to drill and tap you intake manifolds for the vacuum fittings. Mark92131 Map sensor collector kit 4 cyl inc hose for equal length connection WWW.EFIHARDWARE.COM Map Sensor collector kit for 4 cylinder with individual throttle bodies.<br/><br/> Having equal length hoses ensures each vacuum pulse arrives at the collector so the map sensor can pick up the vacuum signals at the correctly timed intervals. Just like a tuned set of exhaust headers...

This one will give you basic information. You can send an e-mail to info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com <info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com> and they will provide original color and manufacturing dates. Mark92131 Services :: BMW Club Clásicos Colombia - EN WWW.BMWCLASICOS.COM Grab some Official Merchandise from BMW Club Clásicos Colombia.

I pulled the valve cover and plugs to coat the valve train with oil in preparation to spin it up to build some oil pressure before attempting to start it. While I was in there, I decided that the valve cover could use some sprucing, so I broke out the sanding block and touched it up with some satin black. My Odyssey PC 680 battery I bought 4 years ago at the start of this project is no longer holding a charge, so I ordered a new one. When I get it, I'll see if my RPM signal is working when I try using the starter to build up oil pressure. I also wired up the gauges in my center console. Lights work and dim, 12V gauge works, fan switch works, USB charger works, fingers crossed on Oil Pressure and Water Temp gauges. Mark92131

Just to clarify, the cam timing mark is on the cam, not on the cam gear. You set the motor to TDC using the flywheel "OT" mark, align the cam as shown, then install the cam gear. The marks on the crank pulley are not always correct or accurate. Mark92131

Pablo: Roll you car in gear to line up the TDC line "OT" on the flywheel with the straight edge of the viewing port in the bell housing. Pull the valve cover and verify that both the exhaust and intake Cam lobes of #1 cylinder are not engaging the rocker arms and pushing the valves open, (this is TDC on the compression stroke). Now is also a good time to verify that the line on the front of the cam is lined up with the oil bar. If it isn't lined up, your cam is not installed properly and your timing will be off. You will need to pull the upper cam chain sprocket, stick 2 bolts in the front of the cam and use a screw driver to turn the cam so the line on the cam lines up with the oil bar, then re-install the cam chain sprocket. Re-install the valve cover and tackle the distributor. I would suggest installing the 123 distributor. If you have completed the first step, the motor is now in TDC on the compression stroke and installing the 123 distributor should be easy. You basically can stab it in the distributor housing in any position, but I usually have the rotor pointing to the front passenger side of the engine compartment when it engages with the distributor drive gear. The rotor will be pointing at the #1 position, install the cap and plug in the #1 sparkplug wire with the cap terminal that lines up with the rotor. Continue clockwise with #3, #4, and #2 sparkplug wires. After the electrical connections are made, follow the 123 distributor directions to turn the distributor to get the "Green" light in the distributor housing, (this synchs the distributor to TDC for programming you advance maps). Use your bluetooth 123 app on your phone to build a starting advance Map using the Blue Book figures for the Tii, see attached. After starting the engine, you need to use your timing light to verify that the advance values in your map match the values your motor is producing, (say your map has 15 degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM, then set your RPM to 1000 and use your variable timing light to verify the the motor is 15 degrees) If it is, all good, if it isn't, you need to turn your distributor body back and forth slightly until the advance is 15 degress BTDC at 1000 RPM. If it is still running poorly, time to move to the fuel side, because your ignition should be solid. Mark92131

RealOEM calls for 2 M10 x 75 and 1 M10 x 80 Bolts for the starter install. There is a M10 wave washer on the trans side and a M10 Wave washer and nut on the starter side. No need for lock-tight. Check BelMetric for the proper fasteners. Mark92131

Me, too! The raffle car was at the SoCal Vintage on Saturday. A very nice restoration. There was another 2002 Nevada car that was also on display that was also restored to a high level. Slight differences in the paint formulas, but both would look great in anyone's garage. Mark92131

The screw head does extend beyond the clip, but not enough to contact the backside of the trim when installed. I used rivnuts to hold the trim in, to see if I could get the clips to sit farther away from the body using washers behind the clip. Still didn't work with the 320i clips. The paint is Glasurit in Nevada, expensive, but looks like the car was dipped in it. Mark92131

It should according to RealOEM. The 240's in the E30 318i used an electronic speedo. The 1.8 isn't exactly a world beater. I wouldn't go through the trouble of rebuilding it. I would sell it as is or part it out. The injection parts (intake manifold, fuel rail) are very popular for people that are converting to EFI and are worth keeping if you are headed in that direction. Mark92131

That one goes behind the center console. Mark92131

The 76 uses a 215mm clutch disk, same as the 320i, so they should be interchangeable, don't know about the pressure plate. The 4 speed throw out bearing is part # 21511204225. These have gotten stupid expensive as late, best price I found on a quick search was $80 on eBay. SACHS BMW 1500 1502 2000 2002 2500 CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING 3151040131 WWW.EBAY.COM NEW SACHS CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING FOR A FROM A RECENT PART BUYOUT, UNTOUCHED FOR 30+ YEARS.

If you are strapped for cash, you could just replace/fix the things that need replacing/fixing. Pull the radiator, have it pressure tested and see if they can seal it. Pull the 4 speed, remove the flywheel and clutch, and see if the main seal is leaking. New pilot bearing, new main seal if leaking, clean the flywheel, inspect the clutch for wear and replace if needed, replace throw-out bearing and re-install the trans. Save the 5 speed and cooling system refresh for another day when you have more cash. Back in the day, I would daily-drive mine, so repairs were pretty much limited to what I could do in a weekend. Mark92131

I'm hoping that any air in the head will be eliminated when the thermostat opens. The gravity feed for this solution is significantly better than the E30 design which routes the coolant from the front of the head to the back of the head and finally down to the reservoir. We'll see how it goes. Mark92131

OK, so last time I checked in, I discovered that the coolant return line to my custom radiator was above the lip for the radiator cap. I had a plug in one of the fittings for the sensors in the thermostat housing, so I bought a M14 to 1/8" NPT adapter and a 1/8" NPT 5/16" hose barb and installed it in the housing. I ran the 5/16" hose from the front of the head down to the thermostat housing and added some additional deluxe clamps to seal it up. While I was in there, I fabricated a bracket so the Idle Control Valve filter would sit above the alternator. Bought 5 gallons of premium to fill the gas tank and check the fuel pump and lines. Mark92131

Maybe German delivery had paint to order custom options? Granatrot-Metallic was offered on late 2002 and 320i models, but not on the list of colors available to Hoffman cars for 1968, per @Conserv. Granatrot is a very cool color! Mark92131

One of my Catch Can pictures made the Google list. Here's my latest with matching oil cooler. Mark92131

I had my motor and trans assembled in the subframe for installation from the bottom. With the square new design, the motor and trans had significant lateral movement in the subframe that would distort the motor mount. This lateral movement may be by design? I switched back to the round one with the metal cup and the lateral movement was abated. We'll see how long the round one lasts. Mark92131

All '02's after September 1, 1972 when Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 215 was mandated. Just didn't realize that Euro cars got the same treatment. It does make sense that BMW didn't want to stock 2 different strut bearings, one with long studs for US cars and one with short studs for Euro cars. Mark92131

I changed the oil filter on the S14 and added 5 quarts of Mobil, 1 15-50W oil while preparing for a first start. Decided to go ahead and fill the radiator with new Prestone 50/50. Everything was going as planned until I noticed a drip on the passenger side. I had a leak at the thermostat housing wear I used a M12 adapter to fit a sensor for my water temp gauge. I tried tightening the sensor but could not stop the drip. It also seemed to be leaking from one of the upper clamps. I drained the radiator, pulled the adapter for the sensor, removed the sensor and put a dab of RTV on the sensor threads, reinstalled the sensor, reinstalled the adapter in the thermostat housing and replaced one of the upper clamps that was stripped from overtightening. I refilled the radiator and WTF, the dripping continued. On closer examination, I determined that the M12 plug I used to replace on of the OEM sensors on the thermostat housing was also leaking. I was able to tighten this plug and the leak stopped, yeah! I had this radiator custom made in China and originally had requested a bung in the upper tank to connect my water connection from the cylinder head (this connection originally runs to the stock reservoir). During the manufacturing process, I decided that instead of a bung, I could simply add a connection to the filler neck to route the water from the cylinder head to the radiator. While filling the radiator a second time, I noticed something that made me sick to my stomach. Apparently, they welded the fitting for the water return above the lip for sealing the radiator cap, not below it, so water from the head could flow back to the tank. Now I need to figure out how to remedy this issue before starting the car. Mark92131