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AustrianVespaGuy

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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. AustrianVespaGuy
    Run on is generally caused by one of two things (or both): First is dieseling, where you're still drawing in fuel through the carb, and the hot engine + heat from compression is enough to ignite the mixture, even without spark, so it keeps on running. The solution to this is one of those anti-dieseling solenoids that mounts in the carburetor to cut off the fuel supply when you turn off the key to prevent this from happening. Second, and I think the more likely in your situation, is inadvertently keeping the ignition system alive from the alternator. So as long as the engine is still spinning, the alternator is still pumping out juice, said juice is keeping the ignition system going, and so the spark plugs are still firing. Since you have a transplant system, my money is on this as being the root cause. Question here, does the 'L' light on the dash come on when you turn the key off? I seem to remember this being one of the 'paths' through which alternator current can leak back into and power the ignition system.
  2. AustrianVespaGuy
    It doesn't matter much what controller you use, you still gotta get the sensor into the exhaust stream somehow. So you either A.) Weld a bung into the headers/downpipe somewhere and screw in the sensor there, or you B.) Stick it up in the tailpipe. A is generally preferable, as it both allows you to leave it installed while driving, and also puts the measurement (and accordingly also the feedback you receive) MUCH closer to the point of combustion. There's quite a bit of time-lag that occurs between the combustion event and the exit of the tailpipe, which makes tuning anything transient significantly trickier.
  3. AustrianVespaGuy
    Seems I missed the key part of that post! 😏 Yes, indeed looks like that's my issue! What's the consensus then, leave it or correct this? I presume that means removing the struts though, right? 😒
  4. AustrianVespaGuy
    Well, mystery mostly solved, the issue is most definitely the bottom of the knuckle hitting the edges of the lower control arms when at full droop, and nothing at all wrong with the steering box and/or linkage! But this now begs the question: is this normal? I kinda think not, but I'll be damned if I have any idea as to what could be 'wrong' here that I could correct to avoid this condition! Looks like it'll be a non-issue at normal ride-height with the weight of the car on the front in order to straighten everything up, but I still don't like it!
  5. AustrianVespaGuy
    I always thought this caused binding right in the center of travel, but maybe I've always been mistaken about that? Does it instead cause binding at the further extremes? Easy enough to test at least, will report back tomorrow if that makes any difference. I'll also check the idler as that seems more likely to me, since the issue only presents after connecting the box to the drag link.
  6. AustrianVespaGuy
    Hmm, well not the gearbox itself like I suspected. Disconnected it runs free stop to stop, but connected is bad. Does something weird happen to the strut rotation when at full droop? Links all seem free and clear, but I definitely feel something. Not a hard stop, i can definitely muscle some extra movement, but it comes on abruptly and doesn't feel good. Can't really put the car down right now with the engine out and don't want to start undoing ball joints unless i really need to. Pics attached of where it gets too hard to turn by hand an the gearbox input. Binds up more quickly going right than it does going left.
  7. AustrianVespaGuy
    So I rebuilt my steering box but now I'm having an issue where i don't think I'm getting the Pittman arm far enough back onto the output shaft, and then when I put it in the car the bottom part of the arm starts to drag on the subframe when turned a bit off of center since it's not high enough up in the 'pocket' of the subframe to move freely. I've cranked down on the big securing nut at much as I can. Is there a dimension between the bottom of the box and the top of the arm I'm shooting for? Any suggestions to get it on there further?
  8. AustrianVespaGuy
    Not aftermarket, just re-using my old one from several years ago as not that many mile on it and still in great shape, but yeah I might need to resort to the old twisty-with-a-tool. How malleable is that stuff? Cast aluminum is neither particularly ductile, though nor dangerously brittle, right?
  9. AustrianVespaGuy
    Reassembling, got the timing cover on, popped the tensioner in (made sure the check ball valve was good first), and then went to bleed it, but seems. . . strange. Like the tensioner shoe is too far towards the head, and it doesn't quite want to engage with the tension piston. It will with a little lateral pressure, but then the piston doesn't want to move freely. Hopefully the video helps make things clear. Keep pumping, or is something wrong here? PXL_20220830_211316179.mp4
  10. AustrianVespaGuy
    E30s get their speed signal from a sensor inside the differential. Not saying to do exactly this, but merely pointing out that the transmission output flange, guibo, driveshaft, center bearing, and differential all run at some multiple of road speed and are isolated from wheel spin. Any convenient spot on any of those parts ought to work just fine.
  11. AustrianVespaGuy
    While not strictly necessary, it's nice to have a regulator and return fuel line for a few reasons. Firstly, if you don't, then the pump is often trying to pump against the closed needle. This causes unnecessary wear on both the pump and the needle/seat. Honestly I don't think it's really enough to be problematic, but still harsher than what's needed. Secondly, having a return line for the overflow means you're always keeping a fresh supply of COOL fuel from the tank flowing through the lines in the hot engine bay, which is also a nice thing. So while not critical, I think a regulated return setup is the right way of doing things.
  12. AustrianVespaGuy
    I like @kbmb02's suggestion of using the manual choke to help diagnose it if its a fuel issue. If that doesn't seem to affect things, then I'd also suggest checking your points gap, and then timing (in that order).
  13. AustrianVespaGuy
    This is the crux of things, but it also makes me wonder if there isn't still a small window of hope. They don't make new IC cars with manuals anymore because people who buy NEW cars opt for the autos. But the MARKET for manuals certainly still exists; just check the current prices on even the non-M E36s with a 5 speed, to see an example. But fast forward 20 years from now when, ostensibly, all the big OEMs have changed over to selling mainly EVs as new cars, and when even all the E46s have become rare and worn out. Then who will step in to fill the still-existent demand? Since money talks, I think there's a real chance of new niche-market possibilities, whether they be small subsidiaries of the 'big' manufactures, smaller start-ups, or even just kit-car outfits. To quote Jurassic Park, I think (3-pedal)life might just find a way!
  14. AustrianVespaGuy
    Where do you find oil filters that are made in Austria?!? I need this. . .!
  15. AustrianVespaGuy
    Sweet thanks guys, I'll make sure the OD of the new pin is clean and smooth, freeze it overnight, probably lube it (oil?), maybe warm the block a bit, and try to tap it in with a socket!
  16. AustrianVespaGuy
    I quite like this idea. . .
  17. AustrianVespaGuy
    This guy, the one without any threads: Came out with vise grips, a lot of twisting, and a lot of levering, but now I'm not sure what the best method is to go about getting the new one pushed in. Will heating the block up a bit work well enough to make it easier to just push in there? Pound it in with the right size socket? any good spot to get a big C-clamp on there to help? Short of taking the whole block to a machine shop for a single use of their hydraulic press, what's the trick?
  18. AustrianVespaGuy
    Just to solidify things, yes, Redline MTL for the transmission. I also like the Redline 75-90 for the diff, being mindful of getting the one with the additives if you have an LSD, or the 'NS' version w/out additives for an open diff.
  19. AustrianVespaGuy
    That seems like an awfully high number; are you sure it's accurate? Since it's reading roughly 15bar and atmospheric is 1bar, you're measuring a dynamic compression ratio of about 15:1. Obviously you pistons aren't THAT crazy, leading me to suspect either a faulty gauge reading, or possibly high compression pistons coupled with a stock camshaft with no overlap and short duration. . . Tis odd for sure!
  20. AustrianVespaGuy
    Remember aero is all about balancing the downward lift, so for it to be even remotely functional you need to match any downforce from a rear spoiler with equal downforce from a front splitter. Otherwise, all you are doing is creating drag and lowering the grip available at your front tires for cornering. . .
  21. AustrianVespaGuy
    There isn't a PNP for the M42 because While all the older E30s use the 55pin DME connector, the M42 DME uses the later E36 88pin connector, but of course it's a COMPLETELY different pinout from all of the E36s, making the market small enough that everyone has just made PNPs for the much more popular 55pin and 6-cylinder 88pin variants instead. But not to despair, you still have options. Here's a link to the manual with the M42 DME pinout: http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/1994 BMW 318i-s-c - 320i - 325i-s-c Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf And furthermore, the connectors are available so between the two you can build you own PNP 'patch' harness from any ol' Megasquirt standalone: Bosch Motronic 88 Pin ECU Connector BMW WWW.EBAY.COM <p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Bosch Motronic 88 Pin Connector BMW. This is a brand new Bosch OE connector. Commonly found on BMW ecus in E36, E46, E34, E39 and other models as well as other makes like Porsche, Alfa, etc. This is a new connector, not a... Lastly, if you're more software savvy than hardware savvy, I'm pretty sure there's enough info/definitions available for the M42 DME that you can do pretty much program it however you want to with RomRaider: RomRaider • View forum - MS42 Tuning WWW.ROMRAIDER.COM
  22. AustrianVespaGuy
    Should be this one: SPAL Automotive USA IX-30102045 Spal Electric Fans | Summit Racing WWW.SUMMITRACING.COM Free Shipping - Spal Electric Fans with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Fans, Electric at Summit Racing.
  23. AustrianVespaGuy
    Cool, all yours! Though I can't find the receipt email, I'm 99% sure it's this one I got from Summit: SPAL Automotive USA IX-30102045 Spal Electric Fans | Summit Racing WWW.SUMMITRACING.COM Free Shipping - Spal Electric Fans with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Fans, Electric at Summit Racing. I think some people swear it's a tad too big for their radiator opening, but it's 346mm across at the 'flat' sections, so a quick tape measure verification on your vehicle will tell you if it it will go or not. Obviously mine fit like a glove!
  24. AustrianVespaGuy
    So one of the (intentional) scope-creep items while I had the engine out anyway was to quit using those dumb plastic ziptie thingys through the radiator fins to strap my cooling fan to the radiator face, and instead mount the fan to the car separately. In preparation for this I had ordered mounting brackets from Massive Brakes specifically for this purpose, but when the time came I found out that the brackets are designed for 12" Spal fans while I apparently have been running a 13" fan! (Anyone with a 12" fan want them, minus the hardware?) Spoken for! But in one of those highly fortuitous situations where American and Metric cross over (like 1/2" and 13mm), I found out that flattened 2" corner support brackets from Home Depot are EXACTLY the right size for mounting the 13" fan! Check it out: Used the Massive hardware since I already had it on the floor in front of me, but beyond that it was just a $7 solution and 2 minutes with the vice to flatten them all out! What a lucky day! Stainless brackets, for any other interested 13" parties: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Corner-Braces-4-Pack-14529/203339958
  25. AustrianVespaGuy
    The one I use seems relegated to ebay now, but surely will still work great for the price. Cut a hole where the CD area is for the shifter to pop through: Universal Truck Console Car Cup Holder Floor Drink Storage Auto RV CD Organizer WWW.EBAY.COM Great for use on the floor in the front or the back. For all of us who are constantly on the go, staying organized turns out to be very difficult. OUR POLICY.
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