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cowlum

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Everything posted by cowlum

  1. cowlum
    You have me very confused. What part number do I NEED to replace. I cant really justify replacing all components.
  2. cowlum
    I was out brake testing my car today and fonud that the rears lock up shortly (very shortly) before the front brake. I have Volvo calipers upfront and 320 drums in the rear. Does anyone else with the same upgrade suffer the same issue? looks like I might have to buy and install a brake bias valve
  3. cowlum
    Hi I found some slack between the pitman arm connected to my steering box and the centre tie rod. Is there simply a ball joint in there or do I need to buy an entire centre tie rod? I cant really tell by looking at Real oem. I think it may be number 11 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2211&mospid=47129&btnr=32_0969&hg=32&fg=05 any help here. Thanks Callum
  4. cowlum
    Whats more important I think is what ignition system you are running and what fueling (injectors/pressure) you are running. Then I may be able to provide some help. The s14 part will only increase the req fuel, more litres more fuel. Close enough is good enough to get the thing running btw.. and with-out high pressure turbo its dam hard to damage anything.
  5. cowlum
    whoa! lay of the drugs man!
  6. cowlum
    Hi My megasquirt has been running sweetly for a while now and I am preparing to replace the dizzy with EDIS. I have only found one type of car here in NZ with EDIS fitted (european ford escourt). I have managed to pull the EDIS computer itself and the coil-packs + leads. However these fords dont have the usual VR-sensor or 36-1 toothed wheel thats useful for my conversion. I know I have the correct part as mine is 91AB-12K072-AA* listed on the site http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/findedis-euro.html I see I can purchase the wheel and sensor from Boost Engineering http://home.earthlink.net/~beanbooger/boost_engineering/ So my question is has anyone dealt with this company or could recommend a better one. I need to do my reaserch because dealing with issues from NZ can be a b*tch. I cant just walk in to the store and start yelling. Cheers!
  7. cowlum
    I am still not sure what you mean by ground at each end of the DB37. As far as I can tell, the relay board has the main ground for everything. The megasquirt grounds through the db37 cable to the ground from the relay board. as in the picture, there is only one ground. I will be changing my setup to gronud through the relay board soon.
  8. cowlum
    I have checked and I grounded everything to the body (all is working well after 1000ks). Im about to do another push and install EDIS so I may change the grounds at the time. Can anyone explain why one method of grounding is any better tan another?
  9. cowlum
    Actually studying the relay board web page it seems that pin 14 (on the relay board) may be the ground for the TPS sensr. but im not sure. Ill have to check what I did when I get home. any one else?
  10. cowlum
    I am slightly confused as to what you are asking. but if I understand you correctly here is what I think the answer is. The TPS has three wires comnig out of it. Two of which go back to inputs 22 (signal) and 26 (5Vref) on the relay board. The third goes to a common ground in your engine bay. I painted a picture. You can find info here (how to determine which wire is which on the TPS) http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm#tps and the pins of the relay here http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm#rb hope this helps (and that im correct its been a while
  11. cowlum
    I hope this does not discourage you, when I did mine I broke a few cheap pullers. So I went down and hired one designed to pull gears form catapillar tractors. Its was a beast!. However after tightning it with a power bar the puller began to flex and loose its grip. So I wrapped it in chain which I bolted end to end so the puller could no longer flex outwards. Then I began using the power bar again and eventually it just slipped off. Moral of my story. Bigger Puller - more force. I realised I could have bent the hub but that was day two of frustration and I was prepared to buy another. It didnt bend.
  12. cowlum
    and megasquirted 02's
  13. cowlum
    Its always the ground when the pitch changes with the engine (is it not?)
  14. cowlum
    I went the dizzy route first becuase I did not think I was going to find an edis unit here in NZ (predominatly Jap + euro cars). I have since found an EDIS unit and after reading install procedures I wish I had gone straight to EDIS. go straight for EDIS..
  15. cowlum
    We have two turbos on trademe at the moment.. That may give us the most turbo's availible to us (per capita ofcourse) http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/BMW/auction-100853119.htm?p=1 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=92455980&key=440508
  16. cowlum
    That looks awesome. I think ill start on a similar project next year. All you turbo guys should pool your data and learnings onto this board so we have a m10 turbo howto-ish guide.. congrats..
  17. cowlum
    After a whole year off the road for my megasquirt conversion I finally got my car registered and warranted. Hooraaa!! It runs very well for a tired old engine.. loves corners and screams like a banshee on the motor way (horaa again!). Ill post some pics soon of my megabudget megasquirt install soonish. My nagging issue this week is a very slow water leak from the radiator. It leaks just enough that it only requires about 1 litre of water every 500ks (310.69 miles for the Americans amongst us) . thats not enough to see any water hit the ground and I can not see any obvious radiater fluid on the side of the engine. How can i determine where this is going. The oil is not a frothy cream but I would not rule out the headgasket as the cars got many many many miles under its belt.
  18. cowlum
    I am using a relay board. I placed my battery in the boot and then simply wired the relay board straight to the main battery junction block (ie - staright to the battery). So far no problems..
  19. cowlum
    heres a picture of the beed type winder. pretty common. btw - the winders cost 35$NZ (~20US) a pair from the pick and pull. So it was really cheap.
  20. cowlum
    Im no fan of electric windows. I prefer winders. But when I got my car the drivers side winder had slipping teeth and the passanger side winder didnt exist. there was a block of wood holding up the glass. I used the winders from a ford mondeo (i think its been a few years). Its rather easy to retro fit a winder that uses the beed style mechanism. I mounted the wiler engine to the inside panel fo the door and attached the ford mondea winder attachment bar to the existing steel latch on the bottom of the BMW window (all very easy). I then used old BMW 5 series rear window switchs (they reverse the polarity of the current to control the electric motor). I then mouned these inthe centre column. I have yet to get little BMW badges to cover the winder holes in the door. they work pretty well. A little slow because the BM window is heavier than the old mondeo rear door window. But its been reliable many year on and much much better than my previous position. However when the day cmoes I find window winders for a reasonable price (read f'ing cheap) ill go back to winders. not that the electrics are bad I just prefer winders.
  21. cowlum
    I watched a silly little show the other day about glue. In this show they glued two peices of aluminium together (about 1 inch square glue area) and placed it in a machine designed to test tensile strangth. The glue managed 2 tonnes before coming apart. This is the same glue they use to build modern chasis (such as lotus). I was wondering if they use this stuff for panel repair these days? does anybody know? To give you an idea of the strength of this glue. The aluminium plate began to deform and stretch before the glue broke.
  22. cowlum
    I did it to create more space, redistrabute weight and I like the look.
  23. cowlum
    dont quote me on this - I only got my megasuirt going in the last month and although it runs it still needs tuning. As far as I understand - The Volumetric Efficiency table represents the amount of air the engine is capable of pumping through itself. The required fuel is the size of the PW required to supply a single cylinder fires worth of gas at 100% effeciency (the engines peak power). The pw is the length of time the injector stays open determined by the current Volume Effecency of the engine (and a few other variables). ie if the car is at idle then the PW should be quite small as the engine is not even close to maximum effeciency. I may be completely wrong btw!!!! My megasquirt totalled 600US (nz 1200) so far! but then its made out of all junkyard or free parts. Injectors took me three months to find. And just last week I pulled an EDIS system which i thought i would never find here in NZ with all out jap cars.
  24. cowlum
    I think what you are saying is = Are all the terminal posts inside the cap exactly 90 degrees from each other? If they are then it does not matter which way round you place the cap. You then go on to say not all cars (VW bettle for example) are exactly 90 apart. If this is what you are saying then I dont know. If there was im sure there would be obvious markings on the cap. Anyone got one close they can inspect?
  25. cowlum
    Hey, it looks great.. Did you paint it yourself? Did you do it at home? You said you got some help from a profesional (your cuz). Now that you have painted the car was the task as daunting as it first seemed?
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