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cowlum

Solex
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Everything posted by cowlum

  1. cowlum
    I got my car for free (beggars cant be choosers but I can whinge I suppose). The previous owner did not even bother removing any asthetic moldings before repainting the car. I mean none! Except maybe the cell molding but I cant be sure as I only got one with the car and its held inplace with screws drilled into the cell. Lucky for me it had not rusted. I had a 2by4 window winder and kitchen Floor tiles for boot lining.
  2. cowlum
    My megasquirted engine is up and running and the car has quite a bit more power My current issue is im running a saab turbo inline fuel pump (just a regular bosch unit) that stops pumping when I hold it on different angles. I have mounted it in the boot which places it at the same height as the top of the fuel tank. Are these pumps capable of sucking petrol out of the tank reliably? or do I NEED a presender. If so would an ordinary low pressure electric carb pump work. I dont want to use the 318 presender because it has no return line input. I was running the 318 m40 intank high pressure pump and it was working brilliantly until it died any suggestions/thoughts greatly appreciated.
  3. cowlum
    I just nabbed an edis system from a mondeo and it does not even have a pin number 7. ford simply did not put this wire on mine - there is not evena whole inthe edis module for it to go in (part number 9a1b-12k072-aa so its the one to get).. Not trying to steal your thread but does anyone know where to find the VR sensor and 36-1 trigger wheel on a ford mondeo??
  4. cowlum
    Im sorry I cant answer your question entirely. What I can add... I had the same problem whenI went to a local VW specialist to test fit a pair of rabbit inserts. They were too wide. I have a feeling this mod only works for tii struts (someone correct me because Im really unsure).. I ended up using a set of rx3 shock inserts I could obtain for cheap, had the tips of the spindles turned down to drop my car an inch. The rx3 shocks are actually shorter and do require a spacer in the bottom of the bm2002 strut. I learnt from this that there are plenty of inserts that will fit from many other cars from the period. You just need access to a guy in a shocks warehouse to go measuring for you
  5. cowlum
    hahaha you mad bloody Aussy. love that first two of those movies.
  6. cowlum
    cool
  7. cowlum
    Yeah it is quite nice down here. However like the rest of the planet I spend most of my time in an air-con office messing with pcs or sitting in traffic wasting gas. hope to make it to the states/cananda/mexico in the next couple of years
  8. cowlum
    thanks mike 9.3:1 unfortunately doesnt bode as well for a turbo project.
  9. cowlum
    All three. Thats a shame! I was hoping to start on a turbo project in about a 1/2 year. Now I have to decide if the 2002 comes off the road for the 2litre to be rebuilt or If it keeps on terrorizing local streets while a 318m10 gets rebuilt in the garage. Do you know much about compresion differences between the two engines and/or bore? over the next month or two I want to compile a list of basic parts that I then spend 6 months collecting (taking time with parts always reduces costs heavily I have noticed)
  10. cowlum
    Firstly a little grounding. Here in NZ (prob the same elsewhere) 2002/E21 M10 engines very rarely turn up, when they do they are either expensive or f**ked. 318 M10s are everywhere, always a few on trade-me (same as ebay). Plenty of 318 parts cars. I mean e30 318s were so popular in NZ you cant go a day without seeing at least 5. So natuaraly 318 m10s cant be given away (obviously I mean dirt cheap).. A basic 2002-m10 with single solex produces 100hp from 2 litres A basic 318-m10 with FI produces 100hp from 1.8 litres Is it just the FI that helps the 318 produce as much hp from a smaller engine or is it higher compression/better head??? I am looking to build a new M10 for my 2002 which currently almost runs MS (current poj coming to close) so pumps in heads are not a concern. I can get a 318-m10 in much better cond for less but I really would like the full 2 litre. Is it the stroke/bore/pistons...... that reduces the 318 down to 1.8??? Besdies the ancillarys (fi/carbs) what are the major differences between these two M10s. TIA
  11. cowlum
    I just drilled holes in the sliders. I did notice while I was searching for these honda integra seats that not all the sliders were created equal. Although here in NZ we get all sorts of strange jap cars intended for different markets.
  12. cowlum
    It looks like cooked on oil from either valve seal leaks because the intake valves are under quite a vacuum in the intake side. Oil carryoveror from the breather vent brings in oil too, but would have to be a lot. In the states there is a product to feed in thru the carb slowly and let it stand hot to disolve. Crank it up after a half hour and burn it out. It also loosens the compression rings and you get some better compression as well. It's not detremental to the engine at all. For what is going thru the engine, it can't be any worse than the dirt a K&N lets thru and people just love'em. Optionally I would run continuous a good fuel additive that has detergent characteristics and it will wash it thru also, but takes a long time. The deposites don't do much though, so as another choice, leave it be. I think you may be right here. Before the car sat for the 3 years my older brother had just replaced the stem seals. For the 1st 100ks back on the road 3 years later it used to blow burnt oil after engine braking. That issue has since cleared up but this crud might be the result. Ill just continue with my build run carb cleaner or similar through it for six months then pop the manifold back of oneday and have another look. I have only put about 1000ks on the car since its resurection. thanks for all the help.
  13. cowlum
    I was running the original solex single barrell. It was rebuilt by a professional about 5 years ago but after the car sat for three years it never really ran well.
  14. cowlum
    All Good.. Under the valve cover is nice and clean as in the picture you provided. The engine doesnt smoke, even under load.
  15. cowlum
    I removed the original carb intake manifold for the purpose of my FI install. this is the first time since I have owned the car I have seen my valves. The picture doesnt do the amount of crud justice! can anyone tell me... What is the crud made up of? Why has it stuck to my valves? Is it detremental to performance? How should I remove it without pulling the head (if I can)? Do I really ned to worry about it? Cheers
  16. cowlum
    I think the bigger question is where are you going to mount them!
  17. cowlum
    Just re-read your post. If you managed a 5 speed swap i would imagine the diff will be a no brainer.
  18. cowlum
    my advice. Reasearch what needs to be done alot! then throw yourself in headlong when you have planty of time. After alot of cursing swearing and frustration I always seem to come out the otherside with the task done. Best way to learn really! As for the diff - no idea? best of luck, im going to watch your thread to see what the experts have to say. although you are probably aware make sure the car is properly suspended and cannot fall on you. Ask my crushed scissor jack how it knows!
  19. cowlum
    Excellent information again Zenon. much appreciated.
  20. cowlum
    Thanks mike and Zenon. I am sure now after sifting through my box of junk that I never actually had one. Ill head out to the pick-a-part this weekend and grab one. Mike im not sure what you mean by 'air door', where is the air door located in the system? Also, once I have found one I assume I must mount it in the manifold? is this correct? or can I place it in the tubing before the throttle body? Regards Callum
  21. cowlum
    There is a red round tail in will smiths Pursuit on Happiness, seconds before the running stage of his life.
  22. cowlum
    Hi Guys Just a quick question, I am almost ready to bolt on FI setup when a realised I dont have an air temp sensor (what a goose!). Im not sure I got one with my 318i e30 inlet manifold. Can anyone tell me where this sensor is located on a 318 so I can attempt to find mine if I did indeed get one. Regards
  23. cowlum
    It really does depend on what you are going for. I started with the brakes. I have a non tii so my brake modifications would be slightly different to yours. My brake mod cost me 250us$ I bought brand new rotors but everything else was second hand. It took me a number of months to find my calipers though. I could not afford rebuilt so I waited for a good second hand pair. Eventually I found a volvo that had belonged to a car enthusiast (he was into model T fords)for sourcing calipers. He had the volvo since new and said he serviced it reguarly (brake fluid was uber-clean), it did look tidy until his daughter put it in a ditch in her first month of driving. brakes done, seats done (35$ worth of integra seats) suspension done and im now working on Fuel Injection. Whats wrong with your car at the moment. My original brakes simply did not work one bit so thats why I started there. patience is always good for keeping costs down.
  24. cowlum
    I finally got the pieces I was looking for from a peugeut 405, high impedence 216cc at 3bar injectors and a bosch 3bar pressure regulator. Now comes the stage where I am going to bolt the inlet manifold together. 1)Am I supposed to lube the o-rings on the injectors/reg before squeezing them into their housings (fuel rail and the manifold?) 2)The fule rail itself has three holes in it. One at the fuel exiting end where the bosch pressure reg bols in. One on the left where the fuel from the pump feeds in. And just above the third injector. what is the last one used for? or do I just block it off? 3) and what on earth does the other pressure regulator like thing that i nabbed from the peurgeut do? it looks similar to the main pressure reg only it does not have a manifold pressure pipe. Is it a back pressure switch? part number 280 161 030. It was located on the fuel line on its way to the rail... any other tips'n'tricks would be greatly appreciated. I figure I have only about a third of the work to go. ignition is up and running. all parts have been found with exception for the fuel filter which will be ab easy find. only got to plug the manifold in and goodbuy single barrel solex! Regards Callum
  25. cowlum
    It doesnt look too bad. But I would go check out the work on the shock towers as you dont want a bodge job done there. Its probably good but I would be extra vigalant with rust on this one (having had soo much repaired). otherwise it looks straight enough.
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