cowlum

My parts guy is suspicious that I don't have a 2002 dizzy. More like one from an E21 or similar.. Your the experts

What happens to rubber mounts when they get old? do they become soft? I ask because Im purchasing new ones but could not help but notice that the ones or the car look almost perfect. The rubber is not dry like an old tyre.. How do you know when its time to replce. I based my descision on engine movement. When the car is idling poorly (cold with no choke) the engine at its highest point can move upto two inches..

I've got them on my car. spaces in the front, rears will fit with out spaces.

tyr this website http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/bmvseite/

(nt)

I have been having issues with a rough idle recently. To tackle the situation I have ordered new engine mounts and am about to refurbish the ignition system. I was thinking of installing a fully electric ignition. Initially I was going to look round the salvage yards for older factory units from wrecked cars. then my brother pointed out this DIY kit from jaycar (do you have Jaycar in the US, im sure you have similar). http://www.2cvstuff.com/popups_folder/electrical_folder/KKC5202.html Its relatively cheap and allows for a decent amount of tinkering. """" # Minimum RPM: Revs at which the advance curve begins. The unit is at full retard before this point. # Mid RPM: Allows for a 'kink' in the advance curve # Mid advance: Advance at the kink point # Max RPM: Sets the rev limit. Above this point the unit will only fire alternate times. # Max advance: Advance at maximum revs # Dwell: The default for the unit is 1ms. This setting allows the manufacturers timing to be entered. If the engine revs do not allow the full dwell, it will be reduced to the minimum of 1ms. # Vacuum advance: The degrees of advance to be given when the vacuum unit is triggered. This can be wired the other way to give a 'retard on demand', which can be useful as a form of traction control. With a bit more circuitry, it could also be connected to a knock sensor. # Number of cylinders # Security number: A security code to lock the timing module against being changed. """" I can replace the points with Hall effect sensor http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=ZD1900&CATID=&keywords=hall&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID= and simply insert a transitor style thingy found on most modern cars into the mix to cut the power to the coil when needed. I think this is the route I will take. Before investing I thought I would ask around and see what other people have done for electric ignition. or can anyone see a flaws in my plan? another link http://www.gadgets.co.nz/mjv/fiat/ignition.html

Hello My car has been running reliably for a few months now, only one breakdown and I was away again 2 minutes later. The car had sat for the better part of 3 years before I got it running again and then it was another two before it became a daily. Recently I have noticed that it will not cruise smoothly. When de-accelerating using the engine I notice that the car kicks a little. It feels like the diff is driving the engine (as it should) and slowing the car. Then the engine peps just a little and allows slack in the drive train. The diff catches up with the engine again and a noticeable shudder is felt. Im sure it is the engine because If I turn the engine off (still in gear) the car cost to a complete stop smoothly. Also and it may be related, The engine idles at about 2000 for 5 seconds or so after being put under strain, like cruising up a hill. If the engine has done no work in the last 10 seconds and I dis-engage the clutch It drops straight down to 1100. Seems like carb troubles to me. Any experts out there recognize these symptoms Im running a stock engine, with a poor dizzy, a single barrel solex carb. All the running gear is stock. Thanks in Advance Callum 74 2002 fjord

I cant understand the need for power steering. Im no muscle man and the steering feels ultra light. Its Lighter while moving than our 2002 3 series and its not hard to turn the wheel for a parallel. Just make sure you are moving slight (even1mph) and the wheel goes light. easy

(nt)

Dismantle it, put it back together and leave it unlocked? get a new gas cap? mine doesnt lock and I just put $50nz in the tank

And I only just noticed that they are actualy 5 stud... ohwell it was late when i posted..

Im looking for the name of these mags and any pictures of cars with them on http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/BMW/Engines-drive-trains/auction-47166177.htm Thanks Callum 74 2002 fjord

So my compression test on a luke warm motor (i know i know - I was afraid of getting burnt) and with-out the the throttle wide open (I forgot) came back 150,130,155,155.. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/topic_view,threads/p,290433/t,269228/ So today I did the compression test whilst the engine was hot and with the throttle wide open and got these results 160,150,160,160 which puts my motor back into safe 10% zone. On the weekend I will try re-adjusting the valves on cylinder two in an attempt to bring #2 upto 160 (i know - when the engines cold) failing that I think i will just live with the difference and concentrate my time and money on other things at the moment. Not knowing all that much about compression - can anyone tell me basically how my engine appears for a worn out old 02 I like many people here at the moment am battling a shaky idle.. im slowely winning Callum 74 2002 fjord

I did a compression test last night on my engine. I got the results as follows 150,130,155,155 - The second cylinder is more than the recommended 10% difference on the other cylinders. What kind of symptoms should I be able to see with the engine running comprssion like this? Regards Callum

Try taking it down to a suspension shop. I have the same problem and thats what I plan todo as I just dont have the $50 to spare for original BMW mounts at the moment. If cheapers ones last only 10 years ill be happy..

How much did it cost you all up (if you dont mind me asking) And has anyone on this board simply swapped in a complete 318i engine? easy? recommended?

Yeah, unfortunatly he's selling the good bits at a real prices and all the small parts are too far away for me

Thought you all might find this article interseting... considering how simple our cars are. http://www.leftlanenews.com/2006/01/11/todays-drivers-suffer-without-high-tech-systems/ and a link to lots of people discussing it http://slashdot.org/articles/06/01/12/0445217.shtml whats your thoughts?

because if I win we can all have a laugh at how much its gonna cost you to send it to new zealand.

After nealry a years worth of work I took my car down for a 'warrant of fitness' (not sure what you Americans call it).. The car has passed on everything except the power of the highbeams. There is approx 10.3 volts reaching the lamps - is this enough - or should I concentrate my effort on the lack of reflectivity the mirrored surface inside the light? Any other suggestions on increasing the brightness of my lights. * the comment in the title is what the warrant guy said would happen if I drove the car with its current lighting situation. "the cops will think you're drunk and have the lights in park" (although they are much much brighter than that, they burn to look in after dark. I think im being dicked)