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Beaner7102

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Everything posted by Beaner7102

  1. Beaner7102
    I have a set of Alpina Replicas (made in japan) 15x7 ET25 - 195/50/15 Bridgestone Potenza G3 tires . The fit perfect no rubbing on the strut, but they stick out 3/4" past the guard (on both my 71 & 72 cars). Both cars have stock suspension. With spacers they would stick out even more. I will need to put flares on to run them. FWIW. Beaner7102
  2. Beaner7102
    I have a 71, and 72 car - both needles are white. Did the PO put some paint on it?? Beaner7102
  3. Beaner7102
    On my two RHD cars (71-02, 72-1602). The head lamp bucket (H4) sits flush all around the chrome trim, The glass is at a slight angle, but the rear reflector is seperate so it does not affect the light direction - see pic. Beaner7102
  4. Beaner7102
    The Euro lights is a lense bucket (as in your pic) and a silver coated reflector thet the H4 globes clip into the back of. Be sure that you get both pieces (if sold seperatly). They are a simple bolt on conversion other than that. Beaner7102
  5. Beaner7102
    I rust proofed my trunk about a month ago (after fixing a fuel tank with POR-15) I wire wheeled all rust spots the painted with the left over POR -15 Tank sealer. A coat of fast drying 2-pack paint that I brushed on and it looks very good, you would think it was sprayed. A lot better finish than any rattle can paint. With the WD-40 dont worry about it, it will burn off. When you first go to crank it over disconnect the lead to the coil (so it doesn't start) to get the oil pressure up. Then connect the coil and fire it up. Change the oil too, as sugested, it will be contaminated by the WD-40. Beaner7102
  6. Beaner7102
    Tom, I'm sure they are old style. The M5 lights were fitted to early MG's in the UK. Nice garage find, which car are they for? Or are they for fleabay?? Beaner7102
  7. Beaner7102
    I cant really help you, but I have my car insured for an agreed value. So if it gets totaled I know how much I will get ($6K). That amount will cover a fair amount of repair too. I hope you can get it fixed or find a cheap shell to swap everything into. Beaner7102
  8. Beaner7102
    Sorry, I only got my 1602 a few weeks ago and havent started working on it. I know the fronts had the mounts ready to go. I assumed it was the same on the rear. My car is a 1972 RHD model so it may be different. Beaner7102
  9. Beaner7102
    Hate to say it but its your grounds. On top of the tank, there is a brown wire that comes off a spade terminal on the sender unit (not the insulated one). That joins the loom and pops out near the LHS of the tank below the trunk lock. Try putting a second wire from the sender unit to a clean (bare metal) point near by (just drill a hole - paint over afterwards) Also check the engine to battery earth strap. If it still flickers, you can add a ground wire to the back of the insrtument cluster (there are 2 silver bits behind temp & fuel) to a clean point behind the cluster. They should be rock steady after that. No need for fancy ohm readings. Beaner7102
  10. Beaner7102
    Early 1602 had single piston calipers (one brake line per wheel, not two) They have smaller drums on the back too. Dont know about the booster (they are the same on RHD cars). All 1602 dont have sway bars (front or rear). Solex 1bl down draft is the same as an 02. But both manifolds (inlet & outlet) have smaller diameter holes (smaller motor less flow needed). The diff should be a 4.11 (because of less power), but may have been changed (or could be a long neck version). All the rest is the same as far as I can tell. Good luck. Beaner7102
  11. Beaner7102
    Drag = wear. Where your discs machined when new pads installed? Is the pedal lifting all the way up?? Is a piston seized???. Check it all out. with that much resistance you can cook your pads, glaze the discs and boil the brake fluid. Beaner7102.
  12. Beaner7102
    I dont think they put in LSD, but the 1600 came with a 4.11 diff, to counter ballance the reduced power from the motor, great for an autox car, or a 5 speed (3500rpm for 71mph) thats if its a short neck one. Beaner7102
  13. Beaner7102
    I always thought they were air vents. They sort of suck the air (or petrol fumes) out of the car. I have 2 non-sunroof cars (71 & 72) and both have the tubing in place. Beaner7102.
  14. Beaner7102
    ...have some spare time on there hands. looks Fab.
  15. Beaner7102
    Open the rear windows, the fumes get sucked straight out. Or fix it properly - most likely fuel tank, POR-15 has a tank seal kit, it works great, simple to do (you have to pull the tank) cheaper than a new tank. Also check the tank breather hose, on mine it had moved (after some spirited driving) and was venting into the trunk. Beaner7102
  16. Beaner7102
    Remember to mill the timing cover with the head, or the step will cause oil leaks. Beaner7102
  17. Beaner7102
    Thanks for the method on the 2x4, I guess I will work out the right amount clout to apply. I'll give it a try. Beaner7102
  18. Beaner7102
    Thanks guys, I'm not keen on cutting metal, So i might have to call the locksmiths. Beaner7102
  19. Beaner7102
    I just pick up my new 1602 (I posted pics a while back) but the trunk is locked. How do I open it?? I only got the one key for the ignition, but that does not work. I have read a post involving a length of 4x2 and a friend, but I can't find it. Please help. Beaner7102 (& 72' 1602)
  20. Beaner7102
    Go to a plumbing supplies or big hardware shop and get a brass reducer from 5/8 to 1/2 cheap as too. Beaner7102
  21. Beaner7102
    The earlier cars (69-72) had a 4.5" wheel with 3 or 4 (??) bumps at about 1/2 the dia for the wheel, that the hub caps hold on to. The later cars had 5" wheels with centre caps like on early E21's. As for tire size try 185/70/13 or wider at 205/60/13. I have 185's and find there are some good (cheap) brands here in Oz. Beaner7102
  22. Beaner7102
    I had a 71' Ford Capri that did the same thing turned out to be condensor. After i replaced fuel pump, filters, carb jets, plugs points cap rotor etc. I would check the fuel pump relay as mentioned just to make sure. Beaner7102
  23. Beaner7102
    My motor was slow and would almost stop mid wipe. I feared the worst and was looking to a used motor. Search the archives for the auto park/wiper motor fix. there is a how-to pull the motor (not hard - 1 nut, 3 bolts plus electrics) then open up the gear end (6 screws) and lube up some light oil and lithium grease is best. Test the motor before putting it back in. And lube all the wiper linkages too. Worked a treat for mine, like its a new motor. Beaner7102
  24. Beaner7102
    No need to raise the center of gravity in you car. The cooling system is pump driven and under a lot of pressure (try taking off the rad cap when its hot). if your heater out put is poor, you may need to flush the heater core (run some rad flush for 20 mins, drain then disconect the heater hoses from the block, put a hose on the drivers side and flush (pushing the crud out in the opposite direction to regular water flow - or pull the heater box and take it to a rad shop), then 'burp' the air from the system. To burp the system (after flushing the heater core) fill with coolant, run the car to op temp. stop engine, top up rad, then squeeze the rad hoses a few times (really quickly to force the water around) top up the rad again, run motor for a few mins and check/top up when cool. Beaner7102
  25. Beaner7102
    With no vac line attached to the carb it was sucking air (running lean) and was probably tuned as such. when you connected up the vac advance line to the dizzy it basicaly plugged the hole (sucking only small air from the dizzy) thus richening up the mix and lowering the iddle. There is nothing wrong, but if you connected it and there was no change - then something would be wrong. Beaner7102
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