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  1. I went ahead and tore out the crane box because I could tell it wasn’t connected to anything 😋 I’ll give the other stuff a shot!
  2. So my mom bought me a 123 ignition for a present and I’m currently installing it. But I’m a bit flummoxed at the point where I wire it to the coil. so the distributor has three wires: blue to Earth, red to positive on the coil, and black to negative. Seems straightforward enough. but I’m somewhat confused about my coil. It’s a black Bosch number 0 221 119 017. It appears to have an external ballast. But there’s wires going everywhere and appears that there’s crap left over from a previous coil install—there this big heat sink looking thing on the firewall that appears to be part of some old electronic points conversion; it’s not connected to anything and I assume I can remove it; says Crane AMS xr700). and there’s two wires coming from what I assume is the positive lead of the coil; one goes straight to what I assumed the ballast is (the rectangular thing above the coil) and on the other side it goes into some kind of container. The wires are all wrapped up in black tape, and then on the fire wall they had two wires coming out of a taped up collection of wires and they had spade connectors that connected the wires onto the old distributor. Can I just figure out which of these two wires are pos and neg and just hook the distributor up to them? Alternately, can I just run the new wires from the distributor straight to the coil like in the manual? Or would I connect the positive to a point after that thing on top that I think might be the ballast (but really have no clue). Attached are a pic of the coil stamping on the bottom, a pic of me holding the two wires that were connected to the old coil, a pic of the coil as it’s installed, and a short video showing the whole thing and the wiring mess. IMG_3158.MOV IMG_3158.MOV
  3. lazerfred


  4. I am finally getting around to working on my 72 roundie after essentially 4 or so years of alnost no use. So the engine is running surprisingly well (and I'm glad I only use ethanol-free gas. However my brake pedal and clutch pedal were sticking. Basically all the connections were sticking after years of non-use I guess. So I put a bunch of penetrating oil wherever I could find a connection, and followed it up a bit later with some oil. Worked great on the gas pedal and connections to the carb; but on the clutch, not so much. The clutch will come back to about 70 percent and just stay there unless I use my foot to pull the clutch back up the rest of the way from the back. I sprayed some lubrication where the pedal went into the floorbox to see if it was something rubbing but it didn't really do anything. It's kind of hard to see where the connection are or what pulls the clutch pedal back. Is the pressure plate doing some are all of the effort here? Is there a spring or hydraulic connection doing it? I noticed that my clutch master cylinder boot appears to be torn into a top and a bottom half. Any and I'll ideas one what and where to start would be great!
  5. How about the left rear license plate light (specifically the dome; US set up; not the bumper-based euro setup).?
  6. Thanks for the THOROUGH and helpful advice! Coupla notes: the old fuel pump was absolutely dead, so I definitely needed a new one (got mine from blunt tech), and I had a weber carb on the car when I got it; whomever had it before either messed it up or it was a chinese knockoff because it was no end of trouble and thus I thought what the heck, I'll get a true redline weber. But this came after my admittedly half-assed tune up : ) I went ahead and borrowed another fuel pressure gauge from my buddy who made it clear that he would kill me if I broke it, leading me to believe it was quality; 4.6 psi, the same as the chinese one, so maybe I got lucky with that. So after I dial in the timing, and do better than the cursory, following youtube tutorial job I did last time, I'm still wondering (again separate from the other stuff) whether I should be worried also about the 4.6 psi pressure. Is it appropriate to get a pressure regulator? That one I linked to is a Holley, I always assumed they were ok, are there others out there better? But yeah, gonna work on that timing first... : )
  7. It was about 500 miles ago, when I put in the new points, plugs, wires, and rotor cap, but BEFORE the new carb and everything else... also, I didn’t really know what the hell I was doing : ) maybe time to revisit it
  8. Hey All -- I recently put on a brand-new 32/36 manual choke Weber carb from redline. I also replaced my fuel pump, and the fuel lines and filter. I've gotten the distinct sense its running too rich, and I've had issues lately with engine run-on/dieseling after I turn off the engine. I just got a Fuel Pressure gauge from Harbor Freight (I pray it's accurate!) and it shows me with about a 4.6 psi. I've read several places where it says that 3 to 3.5 is ideal for the weber, so I'm thinking about getting a fuel regulator; specifically this holley: https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/regulators/carbureted_regulators/parts/12-804 So my question is: am I doing the right thing here? is there other things I should explore? I did the fuel mixture adjustments recommended with the carb; dialing them back, tweaking the idle etc. I figure if I get the regulator it would perhaps behoove me to do the adjustments again. I also have spark plugs, wires, rotor, and points that are less than 500 miles old. Any other reason why I might get run on? Also, the car seems pretty lethargic at the top end; I THINK I might be able to get it to 75, but really even on a mild grade on the freeway it's basically topping out at 60. I did a compression test on the pistons a few years ago; I don't remember the numbers but while not great, they were acceptable.
  9. Just a quick note of thanks for jrhone's video blog post about swapping the more powerful alternator. I've been plugging away on my 02, upgrading and fixing stuff, and while swapping the alternator isn't the toughest thing to do, watching it on video definitely made me more confident in cutting the right wires etc. Woohoo, now I won't be draining my battery every time it's raining, at night, and I want to crank the tunes! : ) Thanks again, Richard in Seattle
  10. I ended up getting a longer stem pump from Blunt tech... though this one would have been a lot cheaper! In retrospect I'm astonished at how I managed to drive my car with my old fuel pump; it literally was barely working...
  11. I completely hear and agree with you... but monkeying around with brakes honestly freaks me out at the possibility of messing it up. I'm definitely gonna check things out, but still a wee bit nervous. that said, the mechanic I've gone to let's me watch and "help" and doesn't even charge me extra for the "help". So watching someone who knows what there doing will probably help me get over my fears in the future. : )
  12. Yep, agreed. I'm gonna a look at them a bit myself but I'm def gonna have a pro do the work...
  13. Is there a way to tell if the rear is stuck like the technique mentioned above about feeling if the center of the hub is warm for the front wheels? Maybe jacking the back up and seeing if the wheel spins freely?
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