Beaner7102

I have attached the excel (zipped), hope it works for you. To fix the odo/trip meter. I had the same problem with my 71 02. I found that the gears were slipping on the shaft. You'll need a toothpick, a pencil, and some sidecutters. Looking at the back of the speedometer. There are several plastic gears that flip the numbers for the odometer. To the far left you will see a metal gear that messes with a gear for the tripometer. That is where the slipping occurs. Carefully push the shaft out of the housing and gears using a toothpick, which will hold the gears in place. Line the shaft up with the back of the speedometer and mark the shaft with a pencil the location of the metal gear. Using the sidecutter make a small indentation in the shaft. The idea is to displace a small amount of material to create interference when you reinstall the shaft. Push the shaft back into the speedometer housing. A little wiggling will be required to get the number gears all back in line. You should encounter a little resistance when the shaft reaches the metal gear. That's it. I hope this helps. Beaner7102 2002 gear ratios.zip

I have pulled my heater box twice in 6 years on my car, thanks to the FAQ How-To. Its really not that hard, just time consuming. i would allow 1hr to pull, 1hr to replace plus 1-2 hours to clean, rustproof the insides. I also recomend getting the core cleaned out at a Rad Shop. With 30 years of crud cleaned out, you can roast your feet. That why I pulled mine 3 months ago, to clean out the core, I was getting the rad recored at the same time. Beaner7102

How about a little loctite in there, that will hold the bush in place. Beaner7102.

If the pedal firms up after pumping you have Phase 3 brakes - by the 3rd pump you start slowing down. Ha Ha. It sounds like you have air in the lines, the air compresses as you pump, then starts working. Bleed the whole system and the clutch. Put new rotors and NEW pads, even if the old ones only did 1000miles, as they would have worn to match the old rotors. Beaner7102.

You may need to give your heater core a good flush, if its blocked hot water cant flow and heat the passing air. I had my rad recored and heater core flushed at the same time - I have to turn it down now its too hot. Also the temp should go down a fraction with the heater on as the water going through the heater core is being cooled (heating the air). I would check for crud in the heater flaps, also pull the defrost tubes and give them a blast with compressed air to clean out the crud. and if you want to go all out, its not that big a deal to pull the heater box, just folow the FAQ How-To, and give yourself 2 hrs for remove and install, plus time to clean, lube, and rust proof. Beaner7102.

You can get key blanks from your trusty dealer, if you get the key code off the ignition and show proof of ownership they can supply them pre-cut to your lock. For paint I would hit your local auto paint seller, they should have the formulas for all the 02 colours. Beaner7102.

With the car off, pump the brakes (10-12 pumps), hold you foot on the brake, on a down stroke. then start the car, if the pedal goes down, with the car running the booster is toast. There is also a air inlet at the bottom of the booster, that should have suction when a friend is pumping the brakes - if not deffinatly toast. Good luck with it. Beaner7102

The bolt needed is the same part as the one on the manual choke from the 1bbl Solex carb. Thats where I got mine from. It allows the bolt to rotate in the lever and not snap off the cable. Beaner7102

KFunk, the fuel pump should come on at the first notch of the ignition (with the idiot lights and guages). If not, its not pumping fuel untill the car is running. Also I think the mechanical pump acts like a one way valve so fuel does not drain back into the tank. Its sound like (a) the pump is not on before cranking ( fuel line is empty between carb and tank. You could put a fuel filter from an E30 (looks like a Tii one but cheaper) they hold more fuel the a small glass one so may help with fuel starvation at startup. If your pump is working at the first notch, try leaving the ignition on for 5 seconds before cranking (not recomended if you have a Pertronix - you can fry the module) to allow fuel to get to the carb from the tank. Good luck. Beaner7102

Damn, it had short rear bumpers too.

Bleed the servo first. Then rears, RHS first (bottom then top), then fronts RHS. On the fronts outer lower then inner lower and top. Job Done. Try pumping the brakes now, if the pedal firms up after a few pumps you still have air in the line. I pressure bleeder is recomended (30psi max) or if you dont top up the fluid enough you are adding air as you bleed. Its really a 3 person job - one at the wheel, one at the pedal and one topping up the fluid. Good luck with it Beaner7102.

It may not be broke, mine is not a clean cut, but it is long enough to attach to the valve and actuate it. Its best to attach the cable to the valve with the short piece of hose done up tight, BEFORE fitting the heater box back in. Unless you have very small hands to fit it. Good luck beaner7102.

The bouncing is often caused by a sticking cable. Un do both ends and spray some lube down it till it leakes out the bottom end. put it back and check, but you may need to replace. Beaner7102.

If your budget is very limited a visit to a bone yard may be a cheap option, BUT it may be as bad or worst than what you have. Just a thought. Beaner7102

The steelies or alloys from an E30 have the correct off set (ET25). E21 will bolt up but stick out too far and can rub fenders (ET13). Beaner7102

Thats odd fro the speedo to stop. If its turning at the tranny, is it still turning at the back or the speedo? If the thumb screw of the cable is not tightened up (by hand) the cable can slip = no speedo. I hope thats all it is. The odo fix is straight forward, I had the same problem with my 71 02. Both the odometer and tripometer did not work. I found that the gears were slipping on the shaft. You'll need a toothpick, a pencil and a pair of side cutters (or pliers). Looking at the back of the speedometer. There are several plastic gears that flip the numbers for the odometer. To the far left you will see a metal gear that messes with a gear for the tripometer. That is where the slipping occurs. Carefully push the shaft out of the housing and gears using the toothpick to displace the shaft which will hold the gears in place. Line the shaft up with the back of the speedometer and mark the shaft with a pencil the location of the metal gear. With the side cutters press a small dent in the shaft (dont cut through). The idea is to displace a small amount of material to create interference when you reinstall the shaft. Push the shaft back into the speedometer housing (pushing out the tooth pic). A little wiggling will be required to get the number gears all back in line. You should encounter a little resistance when the shaft reaches the metal gear. That's it. Goodluck with it. Beaner7102.

On sand you need to run at about 8-10psi to ride over the sand, not dig into it. Thats even for the 4WD's that you saw. You can try it next time, just never in an 02. LOL. Beaner7102

Can you fit the 5-speed tranny from an E12 (520) into an 02, or do you have to use one from a 320. I can get it really cheap and wondered if it fits. TIA. Beaner7102.

A friend bought a parts car with these 13" Momo wheels on it. What is there correct style name? How much are they worth? Any help would be great. Beaner7102

...my WEBER prescription: 32/36 Float Level 40mm PRIMARY idle 60 main 140 air correction 145 SECONDARY idle 55 main 170 air correction 175 ....keep in mind that depending on how high you are (above sea level) and ambient temps, extreme cold or hot either way, these settings may need a half to full jet size up or down on Main & Air Correction. ALWAYS keep the AIR Correction jet size larger than it's mated Main jet (170 main - 175,180,190 air Correction.) Adjust throttle control shaft (carb to firewall shaft) so it is level and straight - inline with carb, adjust with pivot bracket on firewall. Then adjust rod end (on rod coming up from pedal box to control shaft)to achieve full throttle opening on carb stop when depressing gas pedal and you looking at rear of carb to confirm full opening. The other major improvement is when you have the carb top section off, plug the hole in the carb that mates with a tiny brass jet in the carb top. There's only one. Use epoxy to plug the brass tube. It's a secondary enrichment passage, allows "course" amount of gas to be drawn on secondary opening. By closing it off you run solely on main and air correction jets. Much more precise than with this passage open. Trust me, you'll grin after you feel improvement !! Go to Pierce Manifold web site, order "complete " carb overhaul kit, some extra top section gaskets, and order a How To Weber Book from them. You'll be an expert in no time. Hope this helps you, it did wonders for my car. Beaner7102

1342 is the firing order on the top of the valve cover. The engine number is a 7 digit # stamped on the back of the block near the starter. If its the origional motor it will be the same as the VIN on the chassis. Beaner7102

Check the heater hoses going through the rubber grommets the heater core. Dry rubber on rubber will squeak and more noticeable at idle. Lube with some 'rubber friendly' grease - good by squeak. Beaner7102

I think it’s the relay for the Shutoff Solenoid for the old 2bl Solex. The other wires go to the choke and to two temp senders on the manifold for the choke. As you no longer have the Solex, that’s why they are cut. I hope this helps. Beaner7102

I saw it on 'drive' website. Sorry Tom its a 72' and has the long rear bumper like the one in your pic. Just trying to scratch up the cash at the moment, then I will make them an offer. Beaner7102

I just recored my rad, and got the heater core flushed. With an 85 degree stat my temp is a needle width above the 90+ shot and you could bake a turkey with the heater on full. Dont forget that at 90mph there is a lot of air cooling the radiator and the water would be pumping very fast and not transfering the heat from the motor properly. Beaner7102