landon

Yes, checked tension. I was definitely getting slippage at higher rpms. I have new urethane bushings in hand but want to make sure i put them in the right alternator. I tightened the belt and don't detect any slipping at the lower rpms.

My charging light has been glowing for a couple of weeks, mostly at idle but it seems to be more persistent at rpms up to 2000. Light goes at out above that. Measured voltage at the battery and have 12.5v at the lower rpms. I revved it up and saw an increase - up to around 13.5v but readings were intermittent. When this started to occur i would see 14.6v for anything above idle speed. All connections and grounds have been checked and cleaned. Auto parts store checked the alternator and said it checked out OK. They said they can't isolate particular conditions? Stock reman. alternator and regulator have 60,000 miles. Bad brushes in alternator? Any other checks to do? Thanks,

They were cranking them out that week. My VIN 2365430 was produced on May 15, 1975.

Pierce manifilds has a conversion. Overall I like it better than electric but there seems to be less overall adjustment than what I had on my 32/36.

Hey Andy where are you at? I have a Perkins engine in my 75 here in New Castle. Moved here about 11 years ago and I too went to a warmer thermostat as well as re-jetting of the carbs.

Hey Andy where are you at? I have a Perkins engine in my 75 here in New Castle. Moved here about 11 years ago and I too went to a warmer thermostat as well as re-jetting of the carbs.

On a sad note some years ago my wifes cat climbed into the engine bay of my 71 2002. I did not suspect a thing until about 3 miles from home when I crossed some railroad tracks and felt a thump under the trans tunnel. I saw Scooter tumbling in the rear view. She was evidently hanging on to the lower radiator hose as I found a leak there later in the day. Careful with those cats!

Thanks Jim and sooo true. Last time I was in Denver I stopped by Bimmerhaus to look at what I thought was a strut problem. They put it on a lift and took it for a spin around the block and convinced me there was no issue at all. No charge - just a thank you and compliments on the car. I wish they were closer by.

Yes, the shop is in Glenwood. The nearest independent BMW shop with any knowledge of the 2002 is in Denver. There are others in the area that will learn about the 2002 on your dime. Interesting about the aluminum powder because one bolt still seems to be backing out. The cover was replaced with a used one so no helicoil was installed. I would expect to see green coolant at the weep hole but i don't.

I am looking for opinions from shop owners and customers alike. TIA. Last year I replaced a water pump and upon installation I felt that one of the bolts may be stripped. I hoped for the best but a small fluid leak developed around the pump. The fluid was thin like coolant but black in color. One drop per week. All fluids in the radiator and oil sump looked normal. I suspected that bolt and took the car to a local shop thinking a helicoil repair might be required. They diagnosed a stripped hole in the timing chain cover and since they had everything apart I had them complete the repair with a used cover that I provided. They provided gaskets and a front crank seal. $800.00 but all was well with the leak. This spring I start driving and the leak reappers. Exact same symptoms. All the players in this shop leave and form their own shop. They are mostly porsche / audi guys but work on any and all euro classics. The only game within 170 miles for me. I feel that one of the pump bolts is loose and I snug it up and the car is dry most of the summer until the leak reappers. I stop by the new shop and talk to the guys who did the repair to see if they can take a quick look. Make an appointment for 2 weeks later they say. OK I say and I drop off the car today for a quck look. give me a call with an estimate before doing any work I say. I pick up the car and they say the weep hole is leaking and the main seal is leaking and give me a bill for $90.00 for the estimate. I question the bill and the guy asks what do you think is fair - we just want you to be happy. I say I am not happy at all and he takes the bill back. I leave without paying and the guy is obviuosly pissed. I do most of my own work but with this car and an 88' 325ix I occasionally need the talents of a good shop. I don't stiff people and never question the bill if the work is done well. I want to have a good relationship with a local shop but this seemed unreasonable. I also know I am technically dealing with 2 different shops hear. What do you think? And what do you think about the leak? I do not see an active leak or drip from the main seal but am perplexed with the color of the fluid?

Nice dachshund. I have a mini black & tan smooth hair. I also have an Esty carpet set that I really like.

398,500 as of this weekend. I am hoping to get 400,000 this season. Where in Colorado are you?

Looking for the black plastic door sills. Both sides. Nice condition - small scratch OK but no cracks. Seat back panels for stock 1975-76 seats. Vinyl color or condition is not critical but the panel must be in very good to excellent condition with clips intact. Thanks

Possible. I had my system installed years ago in Houston, a very demanding climate. It kept me the driver cool on hot days while wearing a suit but I think the back seat was marginal. Now in Colorado the system is overkill and I can usually run on low speed and everyone is cold. The answer depends on where you live and how much efficiency you put into the system. I have the Behr console and I believe that fan and evaporator are the best to start with. Go as big as you can with the condenser. Use an oversized radiator for better engine cooling and add an electric pusher fan to operate when the A/C is on. Cutting sheet metal is required for the above. Insulate the A/C lines as they pass over the exhaust manifold. R-12 is more efficient than R-134. For me it was definitely worth it it for a daily driver.

While replacing one with the engine in the car; Remove radiator, use a puller to remove the pulley, use a screwdriver to pry out the old seal, tap the new seal in. I did one of these many years ago and I am trying to remember what I did. I don't remember the pulley nut being hard to remove but I can't remember how I kept the motor from turning? I am also thinking that these just leak slowly and don't really fail catastrophically dumping all the oil at once? Is this accurate or do I need to replace immediately? Thanks in advance for any advice.

That was awesome! I drove my 1600 many years in Houston without A/C and I still felt I was above all the other slobs driving out there. One of the best improvements I made was to put ice cold Behr air in my 2002. The best of both worlds.

Yes, you can cap off the fuel return line at the sending unit.

Thanks Jeff. i think I'll continue to try and find a new replacement. I assume these get saturated with fuel over time and I'm not sure how to check an original one.

Has anyone installed a non-stock or universal charcoal cannister? My original cannister is long gone. My engine rebuilder from the late 90's installed a Rochester cannister that fits the original bracket. I can't seem to find a cross match for the part numbers to find a replacement. The one installed in my car has 3 connections with one of them connected to a purge valve or one way valve?? It is different from the original 2 line unit but this has worked well for many years although it is emmitting some gas smell lately. I do not want to delete the system, just looking for a part that will fit the original bracket.

Well, the window seals have been replaced in recent years. No water on the floors. I was getting a foggy film on all the interior glass on hot dry days. Colorado air is really dry. The occasional smell of antifreeze and 1 drop I did see lead me to believe there is a leak somewhere.

Thanks Sherman, I'll give that a try.

I noticed my windows fogging up last year so while I have my carpet out I take a look under the heater box. I see one drop of coolant clinging to the bottom of the box. I can look at the core and it looks dry. I am assuming I have a leak somewhere that will require removal of the box. Can this be done without opening up the A/C system? I have a Behr unit. The A/C was installed about 17 years ago along with a thorough heater rebuild.

Looks nice and congratulations. Check the brake light. It looks like the car is running at 70 mph with the dash brake light on. Could be the handbrake switch or low fluid?

65 ft-lbs. for stock steel wheels and studs. I use the same for my alloy wheels. Why would it be any different?

e-mail me rich. i have a fancy chrome face plate that does not fit my behr console. i was looking for a simple black one like your picture.