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landon

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by landon

  1. It seems to me that the flow is regulated by the speed of the pump impeller. I would worry that the engine would not heat up quickly enough with an open thermostat.
  2. I believe they have an idle cutoff solenoid.
  3. Did not know there were any 02's in Grand Junction. I'm in New Castle. Nice drawing.
  4. A stock motor should pull all the way to redline. There is not one "prescription" of jets that will work well on all motors. It should be viewed as a starting point only. Check timing and other variables first, then re-visit jetting.
  5. There is one on Roadfly currently for $11,000! I test drove that one last spring and passed it up for another one in nicer condition. It was sold then for about $5000. Every seal in the drivetrain was leaking. My experience with mine has been good although there are alot of hidden gremlins with these cars. They live up to their reputation in the snow.
  6. I couldn't get the link but I've heard of benefits for water injection. Don't know much about it though. For our engines I've always thought denser air is good ( like the cold air intake on stock air filter). This link shows how density and horsepower are related. http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp.htm
  7. w/ fog? I would think that 40 deg dry air is denser (more Oxygen available) than 60 deg air with water vapor ( less dense because of heat and water vapor being lighter that air). I've always been confused when people say foggy air is good because i know from a density altitude (airplane performance) standpoint humidity and heat is not good.
  8. look at the linkage in front of the brake booster where the brake light switch is. There is a bolt that goes thru the shroud there and you might try loosening that. If i recall it has a nylok nut so it should not back out but if it is too tight it may bind the linkage.
  9. just did clutch master last year. I think I'll just do bushings and springs for now.
  10. The spring at the clutch pedal just broke after 351,000 miles. Thanks for the info.
  11. Yea..I'm stumped because when the choke cable is pulled, choke plates close and throttle plates open against the fast idle cam. Adjustment of the fast idle screw produces good fine adjustments of idle speed. At start up it goes right to the high idle speed. After some warm up it will idle strong. It is only during the first couple of minutes that it wants to die but a small tap on the gas pedal will return it momentarily to the fast idle speed. Maybe i'll pull the carb to take a closer look at the linkage
  12. Pierce manifolds has a kit for about $45.00. Easy to install, it simply replaces the old coil with a cable operated gear to operate the choke.
  13. I had exact same symptoms recently. Checked all connections, belt tension, etc. Disconnected voltage regualtor and jumped terminials. Voltage went high to about 18 v. indicating good voltage regulator. Replaced alternator to solve the problem.
  14. Just installed maunal choke conversion and it has solved the problem of having the choke on or off when I want it. Another problem persists though. The engine fires immediately and idles at the fast idle speed of 1600-1800 rpm. After 10-20 seconds it slowly dies. I have to blip the throttle periodically to keep it runnung. After a couple of minutes (when temperature is in the blue zone) it will idle steady. Any ideas?
  15. landon

    landon

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