engine and drivetrain Talk me off the ledge on my oil pan

[nbristow01]

Well have the front stripped off the engine, engine in car, head is at shop, front timing cover removed. The piece of oil pan gasket came with it. So no gasket on the pan were it meets the timing cover. The rest of the oil pan is dry and does not leak. Sooooo, is it foolish to believe that I can just cut the front piece from an new pan gasket, use plenty of sealer, leave the rest of the pan intact? just add the new piece of gasket, new timing chain gasket etc and put it back together with the posibility of no leaks from the pan area in front?

[john1180]

If you're going to do it that way, I'd just use sealant and no gasket. Adding a piece of gasket is just going to increase your chance of leaks. Make sure it is all perfectly clean and degreased.

[bcthomas122279]

You can probably make it work and don't have a lot to lose. The pan can be dropped later without having to remove all that front cover stuff if it doesn't work out. But.....if the car's going to be off the road for a while anyways, you might as well do it. Pull you distributor(mark it 1st) and unbolt the engine mounts. Hoist the engine up a bit...maybe remove the center link and you should be able to get the pan out after many revolutions of your 10mm socket.

[nbristow01]

man I am trying to get the car back on the road for the trip to eureka. I am ordering an extra oil pan gasket just in case. I plan to drive it at least a week before the trip to make sure it has no sugnificant leaks. Dont want to spend my time in Eureka under my car you know

[Scott Sislane]

or you could lift the motor up a couple inches (?) while everything else is out, and replace the whole gasket. Might be a good time to make sure all your pan bolts are secured with loctite, for another 200k miles. You'd feel good about it when done.

Scott

[nbristow01]

But isnt that a real bitch to do? or am I just being a whiny bitch. Man you have a really good point dude

[Scott Sislane]

it's not that bad, and well worth the time. Once you have your motor all back together, having a new gasket & properly tightened bolts is a great feeling.

[KFunk]

If you're going to do it that way, I'd just use sealant and no gasket. Adding a piece of gasket is just going to increase your chance of leaks. Make sure it is all perfectly clean and degreased.

If there's a gasket in the rear portion and not one in the front, wouldn't there be a huge gap in the front? (since the pan will sit a little lower due to the thickness in the gasket)

I wouldn't wanna cover that gap with a mountain of silicone. Anyways, yeah its not too bad to change the whole gasket. If you're pressed for time, or lazy, the solution with the fraction of a gasket would probably work if you made sure the ends of the gasket halves are pressed tightly together with a glob of silicone over them. Give it a week or so of driving, see if it leaks, then do the whole pan if necessary.

[AsbestosIcan]

you should replace the whole gasket and do the slight lift .. you want that whole pan .cover .gasket working together for longevity and when you go to re-install the bolts they will all tourqe up correctly because it will be a real bitch to put that timing cover on w/o removing that pan

[JFT]

If the gasket is compromised, it must be replaced.

Next question?

[74tiiGolf]

man I am trying to get the car back on the road for the trip to eureka. I am ordering an extra oil pan gasket just in case. I plan to drive it at least a week before the trip to make sure it has no sugnificant leaks. Dont want to spend my time in Eureka under my car you know

Eureka, CA? You taking 101 N thru Marin/Santa Rosa? I think maybe the locals should get together if you are indeed headed thru town...

Matthew

[nbristow01]

No to the Mid America show in Eureka Arkansas

[BillWilliams]

Nick, do it right. Replace it.

Make sure your pan is de-dimpled. Sometimes the gasket face of the oil pan is dimpled where the bolts deform it. Take a ball pein hammer and tap the dimples back level.

This is where air and a 1/4" or 3/8" air ratchet and extension becomes your best good friend. There is a lot of turning in a tight spot.

[Anschauer]

May as well have a couple of fresh mounts handy if you're hoisting the engine off them just in case.

Degrease the whole area first makes the work a good bit less unpleasant.

If you have a good heavy magnet handy sweep the pan for metal as well.

Take a look at the trans mount and guibo while you're at it and remember to work safe under the car!

[nbristow01]

luckily I have 2 motor mounts sitting on the shelf in case I need them