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Question for you E30 Gurus - Ball Joint Removal


02fanatic

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This is sort of '02 related, but specific to E30's. My son is in the middle of a project (he's in Ohio, not near me)- he's installing new springs and sport shocks on his '86 E30, and he is having a heck of a time removing the ball joints from the tie rod ends. He has the nut removed, but he cannot make the thing "break loose". These ball joints were new a year or so ago, installed by an Independent BMW Mechanic. He's destroyed the boot on the one joint, and finally quit.

I've offered my advice...he's tried everything...but he does not have air tools.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

John

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

John Weese

'72tii "Hugo"

'73tii "Atlantik"

'74 '02 "Inka"

'76 '02 "Malaga"

'72tii engine VIN 2760081 - waiting on a rebuild

"Keep your revs up and watch your mirrors!"

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Pickle fork on an air hammer is the way I do it, then again I'm not usually putting the old arms back on... When doing struts I disconnect the sway bar end, caliper, ABS sensor and the top of the strut and swing the asy down to get access w/ the spring compressor.... Or I have a nice big factory BMW ball joint popper at my disposal for that outer joint. Heat doesn't work well w/ that outer ball joint BTDT.

312-240completekit.jpg

zzz1117xx.jpg

One guy I worked w/ would pop all joints out with a thwack of his big ball peen hammer, amazing to see the aim he had, of course... it's just a little easier with the car above your head on a lift.... wait, don't you have one of those John?

See my tie rod popper and air hammer here....

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/topic_view,threads/p,442218/t,295069/

Tom Jones

BMW wrench for 30 years, BMWCCA since 1984 at age 9
66 BMW16oo stored, 67 1600-2 lifelong project, 2 more 67-8 1600s, 86 528e 5sp 586k, 91 318i
Mom&Dad's, 65 1800TiSA, 70 2800, 72 2002Tii 2760007 orig owners, 15 Z4 N20

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Thanks guys...yes, I have a lift, but the car is 340 miles away! :-( Dad can't help this time. I appreciate the input very much!!!

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

John Weese

'72tii "Hugo"

'73tii "Atlantik"

'74 '02 "Inka"

'76 '02 "Malaga"

'72tii engine VIN 2760081 - waiting on a rebuild

"Keep your revs up and watch your mirrors!"

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Hey, John!

Can't offer any additional advise, but, on a totally unrelated subject, did you see the new AutoArt early 1600-2? I already ordered mine in Bristol. It's also available in Chamonix.

Love those early cars...

75022g03.jpg75022g06.jpg75022g05.jpg

Here's the link to an Ebay seller who has it:

http://item.express.ebay.com/BMW-1600-2-GRAY-1-18-AUTOART-DIECAST-MODEL_W0QQitemZ150164965316QQihZ005QQtrZexpQQcmdZExpressItem

HarryPR

BMWCCA #19290

 

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Harry?...you're gonna get me in trouble! :-)

In case you need any clear display cases, I found an outstanding supplier in Champaign, Illinois (30 miles from where I am from originally). I ofund them on the internet. E-mail me if interested.

I've had a heck of a time finding good quality, yet inexpensive, display cases (to keep the dust off my models).

Have a good one!

John

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

John Weese

'72tii "Hugo"

'73tii "Atlantik"

'74 '02 "Inka"

'76 '02 "Malaga"

'72tii engine VIN 2760081 - waiting on a rebuild

"Keep your revs up and watch your mirrors!"

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I'm in the middle of the same project on our e30 318ic, with the same problems. Did he to the control arm ball joint yet? That one's worse. Anyway, the verdict out there in the e30 internet ether, given no air tools, is that destruction of the ball joints/boots is somewhere between probable and unavoidable.

I finally got the ball joints loose by working them with a pickle fork for a while, then screwing the ball joint nut flush with the top of the treaded rod and beating it with a soft mallet. Apply more pickle fork, more mallet, etc until it comes loose. The control arm joint was much more difficult, but keeping the jack under it to prevent it from rotating and beating on the thick part of the arm, along with liberal doses of pickle forking, beating on the nut and offering knuckle blood to the suspension gods got it loose.

By the time I did the other side, I wised up and sawed the mother$#%@ off. I'm replacing everyting anyway, so I realised there was no reason to be tidy about it.

You might send your son this link, though it's not much more helpful than Bentley. If he doen't have a Bentley, you know what to get him for xmas -- besides air tools...

http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318issuspupg.html

MichaelP

BMW_CCA Blue Ridge Chapter

'71 1600

'71 2800CS

'73 3.0CS

'91 318ic

http://www.crismanpetrus.us

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Thanks Michael! What you did is basically what I recommended to him. I've been in similar situations when wrenching - can be very annoying and tiring! :-(

You just need to hang in there, then "pop" things will work out eventually.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

John Weese

'72tii "Hugo"

'73tii "Atlantik"

'74 '02 "Inka"

'76 '02 "Malaga"

'72tii engine VIN 2760081 - waiting on a rebuild

"Keep your revs up and watch your mirrors!"

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Harry?...you're gonna get me in trouble! :-)

In case you need any clear display cases, I found an outstanding supplier in Champaign, Illinois (30 miles from where I am from originally). I ofund them on the internet. E-mail me if interested.

I've had a heck of a time finding good quality, yet inexpensive, display cases (to keep the dust off my models).

Have a good one!

John

You've got mail!

HarryPR

BMWCCA #19290

 

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This is sort of '02 related, but specific to E30's. My son is in the middle of a project (he's in Ohio, not near me)- he's installing new springs and sport shocks on his '86 E30, and he is having a heck of a time removing the ball joints from the tie rod ends. He has the nut removed, but he cannot make the thing "break loose". These ball joints were new a year or so ago, installed by an Independent BMW Mechanic. He's destroyed the boot on the one joint, and finally quit.

I've offered my advice...he's tried everything...but he does not have air tools.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

John

one trick is to whack the SIDE of the joint with a hammer, holding a brick or thick heavy piece of steel on the otherside like an anvil. the joint flexes just enough to pop the tapered rod loose...

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Where in Ohio? I can pop 'em loose quick. Even done it on rusted junk cars buried in dirt, with no PB blaster or air tools.

Trick is to whack it in the side with a hammer. And I mean hard, repeatedly if necessary. A few taps on the top stud can help as well, but it risks messing up the threads.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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He's in Akron...he may try buying this tolol at Sears tomorrow...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00996404000P?vName=Tools&keyword=ball+joint

If he doesn't get it tomorrow, he's gonna wait until Spring...he's so depressed at having to damage and replace the whole shebang - tie rod ends, ball joints and control arms! Sheesh!

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

John Weese

'72tii "Hugo"

'73tii "Atlantik"

'74 '02 "Inka"

'76 '02 "Malaga"

'72tii engine VIN 2760081 - waiting on a rebuild

"Keep your revs up and watch your mirrors!"

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