90amps of juice...

[JHouser]

Greetings. So I've poured over the archive looking for a solid answer to my question and i'm wondering if there is one. I am installing an electronic ignition, electric fan, and electric water pump. So, with all this new draw on my system I figure I should retire my current alternator and upgrade. My main question is, will the 65-amp AL41X work for me ok? or should i do a bit more work and try to squeeze a 90 amp alternator in so i can get some more elbow room? I know my way around a grinder and have a great wrecking yard at my disposal, so if i need to get mounts that is fine. Please share your experiences with me. thanks!

[MatthewCervi]

I don't know how much power an electric water pump takes, but the stock alternator is just fine with electronic ignition and an electric fan.

And out of curiosity, why an electric water pump?

[Mike87]

Use the 80 amp alternator from an E30. Get the mounting bracket and adjuster from a 318 and the alternator from the same or any E30. I have had one in my 02 for about 4 or 5 years. Works great and no electrical issues.

[ClayW]

I have the 90 amp (E30 325, I think). It's great. NO troubles with the electric draw, no matter how much I add on. The only problem I had was a little backdraw through the dash inicator line that was feeding the relay for the ignition....not letting the car shut off. It's a low voltage line so I added a good-sized diode in line. My fog lights NEVER dim/brighten with the throttle. Great!

Post if you need any help!

[garya]

Easy to do...works great with my electric fan, fuel pump, Crane ignition, stereo, etc.

Here's Zenon's excellent step by step:

http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/318alternator/318ialternator.html

Gary

[JHouser]

Never fails, seems like I search and search, 10 minutes after I post I find what i was looking for. I think I'm going to go the Zeebuck route.

http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/318alternator/318ialternator.html

this site has been the most useful in the way of the mods I'm interested in doing. Just great.

I don't know how much power an electric water pump takes, but the stock alternator is just fine with electronic ignition and an electric fan.

And out of curiosity, why an electric water pump?

That is good news. I've decided to go the electric water pump route to gain 3" between my radiator and engine. I have been fighting the misterious "shortened engine compartemnt syndrome". likely due to uncorredted damage from a previous owner. So I have no room for my new IE radiator. I'm switching to an electric fan and te only reason I would need to have the water pump housing (currently would hit my radiator) would be for the water pump. Ill post a little thread on the progress of the swap. Should be a pretty straight forward mod. Plus it will cut down on the parasitic drag on my engine. Gotta squeeze all the power I can get out of my stock M10 (soon to be squirted!)

[Tiger75]

It's harder on the Tii. Must work from below. Must remove front stablizer bar to get alt out or in. You need to make a spacer for the bracket. I made mine 15mm long. I was able to use orginal fan belt. I had to grind out a slot on the Tii altenator bracket that bolts to the block so that the alt could be adjustible. I added a #8 wire between battery + and alt + to handle extra juice. I had previously added a ground wire to block and battery and body.

I found out that there are two diff alts on the 325e. an 80 amp and a 90 amp. Check out REALOEM.com . I used a 90 amp with solid mounts( no rubber bushings in the housing). It spaced out just right (water pump pulley in the same plane as the alt pulley).

[ClayW]

1. Go the Zeebuck route (I did), but get a 90 amp alternator from an E30 325 instead of the 318i. AAbout the same price. Same size, just more power.

2. I've never found an electric water pump for this car.... please let us know how you're doing it and what parts you are using. Pictures?

Thanks and good luck!

[albawhore]

The shortened engine compartment syndrome could be from trashed motor/tranny mounts. You might want to check.

I have been entertaining the electric water pump idea, there are probably a couple of horses stuck in the factory one.

Cheers

JB

[Harv]

I have seen kits for the Datsun Z motors (L-28?) I guess you could make a setup to fit in place of the water pump. Is there a "kit" for the M-10?

John

[JHouser]

I started a thread over at the project forum. You can see pics here.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,289470/

thanks!

[austinmf]

OLD THREAD.... but I could not answer my question...

Trying to shove an AL46X in my 74Tii.... removed the front sway and it is not going to fit... will not clear the oil pan and front dam.

Anybody figure out what the trick is to getting it in? Are there more than one version of an AL46X?

[autobon7]

Easy to do...works great with my electric fan, fuel pump, Crane ignition, stereo, etc.

Here's Zenon's excellent step by step:

http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/318alternator/318ialternator.html

Gary

I have been looking for the same setup as the zeebuck site as I like the idea of the adjustment bar. But it seems as tho no one has the bar. All the yards around the St Louis area have none, posted on the WTB with no response. Are they that hard to come by?

[austinmf]

OK...Did it... just finished.

I will post pictures soon but it is pretty straight forward.

You will need:

alternator bracket It is bent and is perfect as is. I will track the part number down...

The star nut and bolt with a tooth in it for the star nut for the above bracket.

Wire and connectors for the ground, D and B+

Locktite

I bought the alternator as a "kit" off the for sale board way back. It was my first part purchase.

Came with the AL46X 095 59121 alternator (used), the bracket with teeth, star nut, toothed bolt and a bracket from the 318i

I told the guy I had a Tii and he said this was exactly what I needed. Engine Bracket would not fit.... You need to use your original bracket.

Pull the old alternator. Mine had a professionally built spacer that filled the wider gap in the bracket (not sure if that is how they come as my car is a frankencar pieced together by a mad, incompetent, evil scientist/jackass). I pulled this part off my old AL40X (which looks brand new) and added it to the AL64X.

I checked for clearance and cut a notch on one side where the bracket was hitting the alternator but I do not think I had to do this.

I tried putting the alternator in from underneath removing the sway for clearance but could not get the alternator in from the bottom so I cut the battery tray passenger side "bar" at 45 degree angles leaving the supports in place.

Place the alternator in first before you attach the bracket as it will not fit with the bracket in place.

Bolt the bracket to the engine, attach the alternator from the top.

I put the toothed bracket on attaching the bottom part first. The star needs to be flush on the bracket as there is little room to move the bolt due to the body.

I then rotated the top part and put it on the bolt off the engine. I used locktite here as the bolt only went about 3/4 into the nut...love the bracket and now my alternator is straight and inline with the belts. It is also a breeze to adjust.

My tooth bracket had missing teeth in the middle so I ordered a new one from Blunt but you only use the outer 1/4 of the adjustment. I also ground the hole at the end of the bracket lengthening the channel almost to the very end and I do not think that was needed.

Still using my same belt and it will be a snap to adjust.

Follow Zeebucks lead...for electrical...

http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/318alternator/318ialternator.html

[mike472]

(nt)You will need to change the pulley. The shaft on the AL46X sticks out further. My local Alternator rebuilder had a compatible pulley on his pile that worked. Even though the shaft is longer, after you put the pulley on it sits in the same place in line with the crank pulley.

There are a few adjusting brackets that will work. They seem to vary between 318's and 325's Some have an offset bend in them and some like the one I used required making a spacer out of an old sway bar metal link bushing and a longer bolt into the timing cover. I also had to do a little grinding on the toothed bracket as the alternator fan started to hit it when I tightened up the adjustment. I was using IE 4" aluminum crank pulley which necessitated a different shorter fan belt.

Make sure you use a nice fat ground wire going from the Alternator case to the engine block. I made a ground wire from #6 wire and used one of the 8mm holes tapped into the side of the block by the starter motor and the through bolts on the case of the alternator to make the connection. That little wimpy brown wire that was there stock is no way to carry 80+ amps. Solder ring connectors onto the wire ends if possible and clean the block where you connect it with a new zinc plated 8mm x 20 bolt and washer.