Control Arm Bushing Installation: update

[jerry]

folks, a big hearty thanks to Pinepig and Zenon (and another FAQer whom i've forgotton, who i took the plumbing fitting idea).

anyhow, these bushings have been installed, and with the proper setup and tips offered, this job is very much doable and rather rewarding.

the key was Pinepig's use of bailing wire to wrap the rubber bushing. i used the wire that is made to tie rebar for cement forms; commonly available and cheap.

cut off about 18 inches or so and wrap around the center portion of the bushing. it does not have to be perfect nor necessarily tight (see photo).

assemble a nice pulling tool. i saw a fellow FAQer's use of galvanized pipe and copied it. i ground to small scallops for clearance as shown (see photo). these allow it to seat squarely on the Control Arm (don't want an akward angle to add to the effort). buy a handful of hardened washers and a couple spare nuts.

i took Zenon's comment to heart, not to apply load to the rubber. i accomplished this by salvaging the center tube from the old bushing. use a hacksaw to slice it lengthwise in 2 places. you will still need to pry it off. as Zenon said earlier, these things are tough and can take the abuse. you'll notice that i still have residual rubber on my tube.

the setup should be self evident from the photos. as the bushing is pulled into the hole merely pull the wire one wrap at a time to clear it.

IT WORKS and the effort is minimal. i was able to use my wimpy all-thread rod without fear of pulling the threads apart or mashing the washers. this was tremendous difference from my earlier effort.

pull the bushing past the spot you think it needs to go so that you can properly seat the outer flange. you can adjust the final position of the bushing by reversing the tool and pulling in the opposite direction till it aligns as you want it.

That's all there is to it. Very rewarding and a much less costly alternative to replaceing the entire control arm.

Addendum (3/15/10) (I am unable to upload my photos for some reason)

I found using an ACME threaded rod and a thrust bearing to significantly ease the effort of installing the bushing. These can be purchased from McMaster-Carr.

P/N 93410A120 6ft 1/2-10 ACME threaded rod $37.59

P/N 94815A107 ACME HEX NUT 1/2-10 $2.44/ea Buy 4

you'll only need a 12 inch section of the rod. (the ACME rod is merely a suggestion)

apply grease to the threads to prevent galling of the nut while tightening (the applied loading is quite high)

Also, I strongly advise the use of Silicone grease (not petroleum grease). Dow Corning makes some for labratory glassware. the glycerine is not nearly as effective. Liquid Soap has been suggested but i have not tried it.

[Pinepig]

Nice job.

Isn't it stupid how something as low tech as bailing wire wrapped around it makes that much difference.

[Guest Anonymous]

Wow! I'm impressed. How long did the whole ordeal take? ... really?

well done!

Paul

[jerry]

Wow! I'm impressed. How long did the whole ordeal take? ... really?

okay, the real answer. that's hard to answer IF you are asking about acquiring and modifying the tools. (approximately one afternoon).

however, once i sorted that out, each bushing took about 5-10 minutes to futz with and they were done. i wanted to do a second set while i was at it but didn't have the inner bushings on hand.

i would assume that given the suggestions listed, the next person trying this could minimize the up front effort and get right to work in short order.

well worth the effort as new control arms are over $100/ea whereas the bushings are about $40/set give or take. and the fixtures can be had for about $10.

[Dirt]

This would be a great addition to the FAQ! Thanks!

[Buckeye]

@jerry  SPOT-ON !  Thanks for the write up.

 

I was skeptical at first if this method would work for me after reading so many posts reporting unsatisfactory results installing new bushings into existing control arm. So I ordered bushings just one control arm and to see what happens. Now moving on to 2nd arm with replacing the bushings.

Edited December 19, 2016 by Buckeye

[TobyB]

Dishes soap for me.  Works a treat.  Nylon lube, vaseline, other slick substances work, too.

 

Dry, not so well does it work.

 

To get them out?  Use heat.  AND a press/vice.  

 

t

 

 

 

[Naz]

I have been trying this method minus the wire and not having much luck. I think the wire is necessary in order for this to work otherwise the bushing just keeps expanding instead of going into the hole where it belongs.


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[Buckeye]

Using bailing wire is MUST, otherwise bushings will end up like....

(not my pictures)

 

[NYNick]

On 4/2/2017 at 7:08 AM, Buckeye said:

Using bailing wire is MUST, otherwise bushings will end up like....

(not my pictures)

 

Not true....at least in my case...4 times!

I just did this last month and after trying a few different ways and ruining one bushing, I ended up with the easiest of them all. Takes literally 2 minutes for each bushing.

 

You need a vise to hold the control arm.

A 1 1/4 Socket or 1 inch.

A 1/2 inch threaded bolt, 6 inches long

A few washers for the bolt

A few Nuts for the bolt

Dawn Liquid...blue

 

Cover the bushing with Dawn Liquid..be generous

Spread some Dawn Liquid on the inside of the Control Arm...be generous

Thread the bolt through the bushing..no need for the washers like I have in my picture

Put the bolt through the control arm, and then through the 15/16th socket on the other side

Put a washer and a nut on the other side of the Socket.

Lightly tighten to line everything up on both sides.

Start turning the nut. The top side of the bolt starts pulling the bushing through. Don't be shy.

Works easy peasy, every time!

 

Bear in mind I was told these bushings are different sizes for different ends of the control arms. I couldn't see a difference, but was careful to put the correct part number per Real OEM on the correct end of the arm. I also made sure the writing on the bushing faced the same direction on each arm.

 

 

Edited April 3, 2017 by NYNick
socket

[NYNick]

Socket looks like it was an 1 and a 1/4. I forget but doesn't really matter. Just needs to be big enough to receive the bushing.