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What's the weak point of the M10 motor?


Pinepig

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Gen IV TDIs rule for commuters! don't forget that :).

Also like mentioned the 318i head will help and all the other normal things you would do for turbo'n a motor. Getting thicker crowns on the piston tops helps prevent piston damage while dialing in the setup and incase the mixture leans due to fuel delivery issues. The M10 is a stout motor especially for its age.

1991 325i track car

1984 325e daily driver

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My turbo was running 185hp w/o the ic. With it added the estimate is in the 200 range. Pat Allen built a motor like you are describing so his advice on the big hp wins over mine. Actually, Pat's advise wins over mine on smaller hp too!

Even if you know turbo motors, Corky Bell's, "Maximim Boost" is great reading. Highly recommended if you have a turbo or not.

My motor is 6.9:1 dished Mahles. 8-8.5#boost, Garrett T03, Stock rods, stock cam. Added the E36 piston skirt oil spray for additional cooling as well as a larger oil pan capacity and the oil cooler. Belt and suspenders win here. Keeping it cool and detonation prevention are the issues on a turbo motor. Korman had major fueling issues with the k-fisch. It cannot deliver enough fuel. Had to add a 5th injector and an HKS controller with a dedicated fuel pump.

Driving this car is simply splendid. Boost comes in at 1500 rpm and is full by 23-2400. You are thru the power band by 5800 rpm, and you get there in a hell of a hurry. However, because the power comes in at the lower end it is quiet, smooth, utterly nonplussed in the ride and you do not have the high stress of the hi reving motor.

If I was to change anything now it would be to add, not the CR5 but, an OD5. All the CR would do is chop up the powerband.

For a "driving" turbo, in a 2100 lb package this is output which you can enjoy both on the hwy and around town and suck the eyeballs out of about anything.

Keep us posted on your progress. Good luck!

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rockers yes but not on a turbo motor as you don't need to rev it past 8000 as you make most power in the lower range.

you make the most power wherever the turbo hits its efficiency zone, right before it hits the brick wall. for street turbo cars, i would absolutely prefer to sacrifice high end for v-8 style low end torque. that would be the entire point to me, and i would be happy shifting at 5k the rest of my life. but if the turbo is LARGE and the pipes LARGE then you might not hit boost until 4000rpm and it could stretch to the limits of the mechanicals (8k+++)

its all a balancing act.

what else was i going to say....... hmmmm.... ;)

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Gen IV TDIs rule for commuters! don't forget that :).

Also like mentioned the 318i head will help and all the other normal things you would do for turbo'n a motor. Getting thicker crowns on the piston tops helps prevent piston damage while dialing in the setup and incase the mixture leans due to fuel delivery issues. The M10 is a stout motor especially for its age.

id like a tdi in an 02... ;) sorry but RWD is a basic building block of my current and future happiness... ;) unfortunately my car is 2200 miles away and all we have on hand are both fwd cars... 160hp camry and 215hp intrepid...

well i wouldnt mind a nice 91 16v 2liter jetta... or a tdi 2gen jetta. gen III got heavy, and gen IV is worse... blah.

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I'm familiar with how boosted aplications work.

I have a 9.25 to 1 Supercharged Corrado running about 14lbs on pump gas.

2 liter block, P&P head, SS valves , forged pistons, yada yada yada

Looks alot like this, well because it is mine,

engb1.jpg

A/W intercooler that I made.

I'm not to worried about the tuning so much, I have some friends with excellent knowledge to back me up.

ARP all the way around, stock rods are OK.

WOW- nice!

Some have discussed the use of 3+" NASCAR styled oval tubing so you won't have clearance issues going over the rear axals, etc. One of the keys (as u prob. know) is to eliminate backpressure. Huge pipes after the turbo. As AnthonyK said - stock rockers are fine up to a point. I'd say 7500 others say 8K - either way if you're going up over 7Krpm consistantly for extended periods check out VAC Motorsports stuff. They make sweet billet rockers (Also Skidmark Racing) as well as sweet underdrive setups. Windage tray, oil cooler, extra oiling, etc are all things you know by now.

There can be an issue with #3 at high RPM with oil starvation. Squirters or a good oiling setup will be fine. Stock rods are fine whether you choose the S14 ore the M10. S14 is a good ratio and a stroker (s14 crank) turbo would be badass as you could increase torque as well. Only downside is rotating mass & longer stroke. If you bump up more than +1mm on the valves you'll run into reliability issues as it's hard to go more than +1 and get a good valve job.

What intake are you going to use? If you fabricated that IC on the raddo it looks like you'll have no prob making a badass larger oil pan. What manifold are you using? Cast? SS? Custom? Photos?

MS will be good and going crank fired is the only way to go. Will you be using a custom ground cam? All our performance cams have overlap - or will you just use stock? I'd think you'll want more lift without the overlap right?

With all the work you'll be doing in the CC I wouldn't worry about what head you choose. Take the newest one with the least amount of hours/miles on it so it will be least likely to crack. Heat is the killer of the M10 head. Using a newer head is also good because you won't have that fuel pump provision.

Another thought.... that I've considered is going with VAC Motorsport's MLS headgaskets - as you can get them in custom thicknesses. It's a little ghetto but if you run into an issue with CR and need to bump it down a hair you can always order a slightly thicker head gasket - get an adjustable cam pulley gear!

Best,

TJW

'79 & '80 Vespas, R75/6 + R90/6 (and a Triumph), '76 IH Scout II

E36 

'71 VIN: 2574356 - Nevada, Sunroof, RUST and a really nice '76

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Hi Pinepig.

If you were to run that motor at constant high RPM, I would say that the weak parts would be the rocker arms. The second weak point that may interest you is the headgasket. Overheat the motor just a bit, and it will leak past. The best solution is to O-ring the block. O-ringing the block will work great with Turbo and race engines. It is really the best improvement I ever did on my race engine.

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Brake harder. Go faster.

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What intake are you going to use? If you fabricated that IC on the raddo it looks like you'll have no prob making a badass larger oil pan. What manifold are you using? Cast? SS? Custom? Photos?

Take a look in my blog page for the current intake setup. It's an early 320i with a Honda TB off a Prelude, bore is 57mm. I'll end up switching to 42# injectors instead of the current 24#ers in there now. My buddy has 42s in his Audi 1.8t and makes 360 something to the wheels ( all 4 ) now.

I'll probably make another A/W intercooler as it makes the piping so much easier. Side extension for the oil pan and a some anti slosh panels in there will also happen. If it takes welding I'll do it just because I like to weld things up. Heaven help me if I ever get my hands on a Bridgeport.

For you guys that like the TDI my buddy Howard has the fastest MK4 in NA right now ( Atomicsushi for you clubTDI folks ) It's getting a motor swap at the moment because he's never happy.

Charlie Mac in Sacramento.

My Blog

I'm an كافر

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