Need Side Drafts

[Rob7502]

I really can not get this car to run, I've tried everything. It wont pull over 3500 rpm it feels like it drops one or two cylinders only when it has a load on it. The motor is a freshly rebuilt 9.5:1 TEP regrind 294 cam Solex 40mm side draft motor. I have tried 002 dizzy, 084 dizzy, Advancing cam 1 tooth, Retarding Cam 1 tooth, Balanced carbs, Rejett. I am really at the end of my limits with this car, last night I wanted to DRIVE IT OFF A CLIFF.

So the only thing I havent done is try a different set if carbs. So to rule out my carbs. Does any one have a set of Side Drafts that they know works that I can bolt on and try just to rule mine out???

Please help!!!

Thanks

Robert

[FL02]

How is your air filteration? If your air filter is clogged or bad in any way, there is a big power dropoff. Try it without filters, or just with stacks and see what it does. It could also be a jetting issue, where the primary or secondary, or other jet is clogged or incorect. How does the bottom end feel? You might want to find the stock settings for the carbs and go from there. My R100s motorcycle was bogging down sorta like you said, and I thought it was running too rich, but it was too lean, and I took it almost to backfire on idle (where it ran good on acceleration) and then backed it out a little. Now the motorcycle w/ twin bing carbs is running great. My Bimmer has a single 32/36 and is kinda idiot proof, and is just a little lean off redline stock setitngs. I use the second gear grid as in indicator of it running too rich. Because when it is just right my second gear doesn't grind anymore. Just rambling off the top of my head, cuz I figure any answer moves the issue/thread forward.

[oz_tom]

At the moment mines dropping off at about 5000 when it should be going all the way up and still be pulling. It also sort of stutters a bit when you push it in 2nd.

Tom

[Arizona02]

is a set screw on the bottom of carb that if loose, the venturi can rotate and block off some circuts.

[Nate_JB]

Sounds like a fuel problem. Mine did the same until I fixed it. Make sure your fuel return line is plugged. Don't use the cheap VW plastic fuel filters and if you haven't already, purchase an electric fuel pump for the Solex's. There's a couple of other places the fuel line can leak air causing pressure inconsistancies (sp) at higher RPM's. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. Except for the electric fuel pump Have you sprayed carb cleaner around the intake and booster to look for leaks?

[dapbmw]

you might have missed something. what kind are they? i can rebuild them for you if you are not in a rush

[c.d.iesel]

....in your other thread about all the

'work' done to this motor, you do not list any if any cahnge - improvement / no change/or running poorer after each of your changes????? got some details to add to this long distance diagnosis?

My thoughts is first back to basics.

compression test?

valve clearance?

cam / crank timing?

are you trying all this with stale 3 year old gas, or absolutley

clean fresh gas?

ignition timing with a Timing Light? and

condition of distributor advance?

spark plug type/number? - and gap?

gas tank strainer/pickup condition?

gas hose condition?

AND 1600, 1800, 2000 ti motors have a mechanical fuel pump

electric pump is not needed

here's a factory manual photo:

[Rob7502]

C.D.

I do have the patients for side drafts. The changes to the motor have been done durring a recent rebuild. Checked cam timing.Talked to the guys at TEP where I bought the cam they said that I could be off by a tooth checked to see if I was and also tried to advance the cam 1 tooth no go. As far as the dizzy goes, I have been trying an 002 tii dizzy that had not been rebuilt, but was inspected. I have since moved on to a fresh 084 that came out of the car. The plugs are bosh w8 platnums ( I know a lot of people say that they dont like these plugs but I have had luck in the past with them) The gas is clean and fresh the tank spotless and I am using the steel return line for my supply. Unfortunatly a compresion test I dont think will be very accurat the motor is not broken in yet.

I do have a question for you though. The stock fuel pump on the Ti was it diferent than the ones on the 02s. Could it have pumped more volume?

Thanks for the help I am going to go start at ground zero.

[mcmil]

MY old NK parts books (1972) suggests that the same pump was used for all 2.0 ltr motors, as well as Tisa. Apparently, BMW thought it was sufficient.

[Timmer]

From what I've read, the mechanical fuel pump for the E-3's; 2500, 2800, 3.0S and Bavaria ) are the mechanical fuel pumps of choice for those with 2002's staying with a mechanical fuel pump. I have seen them on german ebay time to time and they look just a bit different than the 2002 mechanical fuel pump., I'd bet Carl Nelson would have them as well. Neil, no armrest trim pieces just yet.

Tim

'69 2000

[Rob7502]

Here is the update. Went Vic Hubards and bought a electric fuel pump $32 for a 3.5 psi 42 gph pump. NOT THE PROBLEM. Talked to a local shop and they thought that I might be choking of the motor with the stock exhaust, so I unhooked at the header. ALSO NOT THE PROBLEM. Did a comp. check on the motor. I have a 15 psi varience across the cylinders. THIS MAY BE THE PROBLEM. This weekend I am pulling the head, and going to replace the one item I left, the valves. I think I am getting some leak through my exhaust valves so I have orderd stainless from IE and I am going to hand lap them. While I am at it I am going to replace my cam sproket with an ajustable one to make up for the decked head.

Thanks for the help

[Rob7502]

Here is the update. Went Vic Hubards and bought a electric fuel pump $32 for a 3.5 psi 42 gph pump. NOT THE PROBLEM. Talked to a local shop and they thought that I might be choking of the motor with the stock exhaust, so I unhooked at the header. ALSO NOT THE PROBLEM. Did a comp. check on the motor. I have a 15 psi varience across the cylinders. THIS MAY BE THE PROBLEM. This weekend I am pulling the head, and going to replace the one item I left, the valves. I think I am getting some leak through my exhaust valves so I have orderd stainless from IE and I am going to hand lap them. While I am at it I am going to replace my cam sproket with an ajustable one to make up for the decked head.

Thanks for the help

[Harv]

WOW! You said you moved the cam a tooth. IS it anywhere it should be? 15psi diff in a new motor is nothing. I'd go after that distributer some more. Look at your timing with a timing light. Is it advancing? Try to start over. Looks like your chasing too many different things.

Good Luck.

John

[Rob7502]

Yeah your right I am chasing alot of things. Yes the cam is lined up with the origanal timing marks but do to the decked head it is off by about 3 deg. So TEP recomended that I try advancing it 1 tooth and see if it works. I checked my timing yesterday and it looks fine. Turns out my front carb is not pulling fuel over 3000 so here comes a rebuild.

[Harv]

Glad to hear you found the problem. Let us know how it turns out.

John