Crank Pulley Nut - Removal

[zambo]

Just checking after reading all the posts …

 

* Standard right hand thread.

* Using a cordless impact wrench with 700 Nm breakaway torque. 
* No apparent signs of rust around the thread or vicinity.

* Engine on stand so great access.

* Hit it with WD-40 over two days. 
 

Any other steps suggested - it’s still on tight. 

 

How quickly should it loosen with the wrench (typically) assuming no rust impeding the process? I noted in one post that Toby said you could hang about there a few minutes to get it done. I haven’t hammered away at it continuously for more than about 30 seconds as yet. 
 

Is heat the likely next step?

 

Thanks as always. 
 

 

 

[tech71]

700 nm torque should easily remove that, are you sure this cordless impact is producing listed torque?

Got a flywheel lock and big ass breaker bar?

If memory serves, that nut should only be torqued to around 100 ft lbs/135 nm

[tzei]

If it has strong loctite you might need to heat it up.

[zambo]

30 minutes ago, tech71 said:

700 nm torque should easily remove that, are you sure this cordless impact is producing listed torque?

Got a flywheel lock and big ass breaker bar?

If memory serves, that nut should only be torqued to around 100 ft lbs/135 nm

 

It sliced thru some wheel nuts that were on good and tight so I thought having earlier read the torque for the 30mm nut, it should whip it off.

 

The flywheel is off (changing it over from auto to 5-speed) but can put it back on - don't have the lock though.

 

Perhaps as tzei says, maybe a bit of heat if they have used the "permanent" loktite on it will release it ...

[Son of Marty]

I'd put the flywheel on and get a aircooled VW flywheel lock their about 12 bucks on Amazon or any VW parts place.

[zambo]

Well thanks for the support as usual - these techniques all work out in the end. 
 

Popped off after a bit of heat though it still didn’t want to cooperate with the impact wrench. So wandered away to change the battery and then it spun off like there was never a “battle” 🤷🏻. 
 

Pulley eased off with a few rubber mallet taps - do I leave the key in as I’m going to replace all the timing cover gaskets with new and obviously the front seal - though not a drip coming from that old one. At least 20 yrs in there - minimum. 
 

Thanks guys. 

 

 

Edited May 21 by zambo

[RichenFamous]

I’ve always been told to replace the woodruff key. Super cheap insurance. 
Glad the bugger spun off for you! 
🍻

[zambo]

19 minutes ago, RichenFamous said:

I’ve always been told to replace the woodruff key. Super cheap insurance. 
Glad the bugger spun off for you! 
🍻

Do you mean with a new one or just make sure this one goes back in when I reinstall the pulley. I was intending to reuse the existing one …?

[Son of Marty]

Pull the key out and see if it has been displaced on either side if it's not marred it's good, also inspect the slot it was in for cracks it's unusual for m10 to crack there but looking is free.

[RichenFamous]

4 hours ago, zambo said:

Do you mean with a new one or just make sure this one goes back in when I reinstall the pulley. I was intending to reuse the existing one …?

To clarify: replace with a new woodruff key. A $2 key is cheap insurance in my book. I’ve only ever felt comfortable reusing woodruff keys on lawn mower engines. My motors (Air cooled VW and Porsche) were taken down after two months of drag racing and now my son’s cup Miata motors are rebuilt every season or as needed. New woodruff every time.