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RichenFamous

Solex
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Everything posted by RichenFamous

  1. Thanks Percy, I took some notes from other posts and trimmed the “fat” for what I needed. Wasn’t 100% these three nuts needed to be removed as you stated, so I just wrote what I did, having never performed this before. Coming from someone who has, I am sure you are correct and I can edit the post accordingly to avoid confusion. Rich
  2. Hey now! Something I’ve been on the hunt for! I’m in Sacramento, so no shipping. PM will be sent. Cheers! Rich
  3. Happy Tuesday folks! May pick up an Ansa header tomorrow from a friend, but I need some help as Google has not turned up the info I’m looking for. He had this on a spare M10 motor, not sure what car it came out of. Heres the header in question: Stamp says BW 0881, but I can’t find any info. Anyone recognize this header? Will it fit my stock 1969 2002? What else would I need to install to the intermediate pipe? Weld on a new flange? Is it worth the effort or should I buy a different header? Thanks in advance for your expertise! Rich
  4. WTB fulfilled! Great price on a very nice rear seat frame. Great guy. Thanks Marc! Cheers, Rich
  5. Ah ha! Sorry for the post then, and thank you for the knowledge! Rich
  6. Where are you located? I have five steel wheels (all look like the top wheel) that you can choose a clean one from. I’m in the Sacramento area.
  7. Need a rear seat, just the bench for my 1969 2002. The one I have is not worth saving, too far gone. I have new upholstery, so I just need a decent frame to work with. I’m in the Sacramento area and will travel for the right deal! Have $$ or parts to trade. Thanks in advance! Rich
  8. So I pulled the cap and rotor, should’ve check here first and replaced. Hate brain farting and overlooking the easy stuff 🤬. Contact from coil to rotor looks loose/broken. I happen to have a distributor that came in a box of parts I got with the car, but not sure what it is or if I can use it if needed. In the car now: 0231115071 Add’l dizzy: 0231168024 Google’d to see application, nothing definitive. Cap won’t transfer and points are mounted on opposite side. Condenser and vacuum are in similar spots though.
  9. You’re absolutely right, good advice. I’ve always had good luck with electric fuel pumps from my air cooled VW days, and already have the parts. I will correct the problem first before changing out though. Look what happened to be at the Goodwill the other day! An Innova 3551! $3.99, couldn’t pass it up, hopefully it works. I’ll check it out the timing today. Tank is spotless, and I have new fuel filters also, paper in trunk and pretty glass one in the engine bay.
  10. Revival!! Just installed the aforementioned check valve, helped immensely with the hot restarts, fires right up. 😁 I am, however, experiencing (about 15-20 minutes after warmup and driving) stumbling when coming to stop and idling. Rough idle, then sort of coughs, then off we go once up in the 1800-2000+ rpm range. Engine will die if not throttle controlled. Trying to track down the issue one step at a time, I recently (month ago) replaced all rubber fuel lines, nothing else. Adjusted air mixture and idle stop. Replaced vacuum line to distributor. No electric fuel pump yet, but do have a manual choke Weber 32/36. Plan on installing electric fuel pump and pressure gauge this week. Other than rebuilding the carb, what to chase next? Hate throwing parts at problems! Any thoughts? Cheers, Rich
  11. Bad angle, it’s there. Do plan on getting bigger sways in the future though. Inch by inch...
  12. Yep, plenty of bent up items under there. I have brand new lower control arms, bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and more. Also front Bilstein HD’s. Going to get rear Billy HD’s and H&R springs and do it all up soon. Thanks for the info on how easy it should be since ball joints had been replaced in the past. I hadn’t looked at it in depth knowing I didn’t have all the parts lined up yet. Feel more confident now getting to know the car. We are definitely having fun wrenching on her (and grabbing some scratch in 2nd gear!)
  13. Thanks Randy. Partly the reason I didn’t want tackle the full job just yet are those ball joints. I did pick up a HF ball joint separator as well, but need to put all the components together first for a nice father son wrench weekend. Good lord on resorting to a large titanium drill bit! Great idea Mark! I’ll dig the old ones out of the recycle pile and pull the studs.
  14. Anyone that needs a hand replacing theirs, come on through! I’m in the Sacramento area.
  15. So I know there’s been write ups for strut bearing replacements, and I’ve read quite a few of them. I like to think that I am mechanically inclined and can tackle most repair jobs, I am however timid at times to start “new” procedures without reading as much as I possibly can. I’ve read through this: http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/26front_rebuild.html, and it is a great write up. I wasn’t looking to do all that job just yet, only wanted to replace the strut bearings, nothing more at this time as mine were “the worst I’ve ever seen in person” - DanG, thanks for telling me how lazy I am Dan! (They were bad!!) Thought I’d post what I did and how I did it to hopefully help those who feel like I do sometimes. So here we go. Tools and supplies: WD40 Waterproof grease Harbor Freight spring compressors Vise grips 19mm wrench or Crescent wrench 13mm socket Ratchet Small hammer Floor jack Start by WD40’n yer nuts. They are all 13mm. Loosen up the shock nut. I used Vise grips and my large Crescent wrench (19mm wrench went MIA). Do not fully remove just yet. Get those HF spring compressors in place and tightened up. I was leery of using these as I’ve heard nightmare stories about them slipping, so I made damn sure they stayed on opposite sides and the lock pin was in place. I used the Vise grips to tighten as I didn’t want to bust my knuckles trying to tighten from the top. Didn’t hurt the threads at all. Remove three 13mm nuts on the bottom of the shock assembly and the 13mm linkage nut(s). Don’t remove strut bearing nuts just yet. Separate the bottom of the shock assembly from the control arm and support with floor jack. Time to remove the shock nut and spacer. Lower the floor jack slowly, just enough to clear the strut bearing. There are washers/shims up top that you need to be aware of just in case you need to coax it more than I had to. Remove old bearing. Ready for new bearing. Be sure to grease her up good, top and bottom. Place new bearing on top of shock, be aware of spring orientation within the spring cup and make sure it is seated properly. Raise into place slowly. Three studs on bearing only go in one way, don’t force it, it should go in smoothly. Once studs show through the shock mount, put spacer and shock nut in place. Tighten enough to hold in place. Snug up the three 13mm bearing nuts. I placed my spacer on top in order to keep the nose down as I am not keeping it stock height. You may want yours under as US spec. Maneuver bottom of shock assembly onto the control arm and tighten up the three 13mm nuts. Lower floor jack out of the way. Align sway link and tighten the 13mm nut(s). Tighten shock nut. Tighten three 13mm bearing nuts. Double check torque specs. Repeat on other side. Having never done done this before, it only took about 45 minutes per side. Not a difficult task at all and I’ll give that non-difficulty shout out to the HF spring compressors. I would not have had such an easy time without them. Fixed up just in time for 🚗 and ☕ tomorrow out in Carmichael.
  16. Welcome! I need to get over and meet DanG and may be a good time to see two cars at the same time. DanG, what time-ish are you at your garage? I’d love to swing by and meet you and check out your garage and projects! Otto is local roadworthy and I’m only a few minutes away. Weekends are good too. Cheers, Rich
  17. I’ve been to AutoGator over the years, I’ll for sure stop by. I’ve been all over lately, but wasn’t me in the Sahara. Mine is white with Motorsport-ish stripe down the side.
  18. I’m in over in Antelope, but I like to call it The Lope’s, Hollywood of North Highlands. 😄
  19. Damn Bay Bridge! Didn’t take our 02 either, suspect strut mounts and carb issues had me second guessing the drive. We’ll hopefully sort the mounts out this weekend.
  20. Truck turned out great! I really like the grey engine bay. 👍🏼
  21. We scored a shop manual and a Dino steering wheel. Swap meet was awesome!
  22. My son and I had a great time this year (our first) down at Brisbane. Met a lot of folks, and a few from the Sacramento area, and since my memory stinks and I can’t remember anyone’s name, posting up so we can hook up at coffee some upcoming weekends. Here’s a few pics we took.
  23. How much are you asking for the left side signal? Cheers, Rich
  24. I am subscribed! I have a spoiler made by Kamei that looks very close to the Turbo (from pictures I’ve seen), but haven’t mounted it yet. I am in no rush whatsoever because my car is a definite work in progress, so I will pick yours up whenever you have them done, even if it’s a year/year and half down the road. You have my support.
  25. Any progress on the Turbo spoiler? I have a set of the splitters and the quality is top notch! Hope all is well, great job!


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