2002tii lock cylinder

[Carrot]

I followed the steps for removing the lock cylinder. By punching out the pin but it seems still stuck on their. Should I just carefully drill it out ? I’m doing this to get rekeyed since the original ones are long gone. 

[tech71]

I'm confused, what steps did you follow? What pin did you punch out?

Normally there is a pin that has to be drilled out ... Picture?

[Carrot]

Once I go see the car again I’ll send pictures. But it’s a pin under the key lock cylinder. I hit it lightly a couple times and with a flat head I should be able to pull it out but I still feel resistance 

[Carrot]

Once I go see the car again I’ll send pictures. But it’s a pin under the key lock cylinder. I hit it lightly a couple times and with a flat head I should be able to pull it out but I still feel resistance 

 I followed this 

[Mike Self]

When I went to drill that roll pin out, it caught on the drill bit (I was using one that just barely went inside the hollow pin) and started spinning.  I was able to pull the pin right out, still spinning and caught on the bit.  

 

You did disconnect the electrical switch part of the lock assembly before trying to remove it, didn't you?  And did you check the back side of the lock for a little paper tab with the key number on it?

 

mike

[Carrot]

The switch part I did disconnect. I might need to go in there then with a drill bit. What size did you use ? And for the tab I didn’t see it. But to be honest I wasn’t looking for it. What does that do for me ? 

[Mike Self]

The drill bit I used was just the tiniest bit larger than the hole in the middle of the roll pin, so it went in 3-4 mm and then the drill's torque overwhelmed the grip between the roll pin and its hole, so the pin/bit started to spin.  At that point I slowly pulled the drill--with the pin firmly stuck on the bit--out of its hole and thus freed the lock cylinder.  IIRC I replaced the roll pin with a thin sheet metal screw to make removal easier the next time.  At the time (30 or so years ago) I figured that no one is gonna be stealing a 18 year old car...

 

The "tab" is a little paper sticker that the factory stuck to the back side of the ignition switch, and also to the inside of the door handles.  It has the code for the key, so if you know your door lock(s) still use the same key as the ignition (as they did from the factory) if you can find the sticker, at least the dealer--or possibly a good key shop--can make a new key from the code.  This code was also stamped on the keys supplied with the car when it was new.  

 

And...if you take a door lock off to find the key number sticker, just take that to a locksmith and he can make a new key from the door lock.  Easier to remove than the ignition switch--especially if it's giving you trouble trying to remove.

 

mike

[Carrot]

Awesome I appreciate the help. I’ll do the door lock situation since the key lock is giving me a hard time. And to fix it, you gave the key lock threads along with the housing to secure it with a screw? 
 

In the meantime, I’m getting it towed and like I said I have no keys and it’s pretty sunken in the ground, is there a way to release the lock steering ? 

[Son of Marty]

Roll pins need a special punch to get them out with out deforming them which just makes them tighter, you can get a whole set at Harbor Fright for under 10 bucks. The ends engauge the side of the pin while a small bit of the center fills the hole, in the picture the punch is silver and the pin is red.

[Mike Self]

1 hour ago, Carrot said:

And to fix it, you gave the key lock threads along with the housing to secure it with a screw? 

Didn't need to.  The lock housing is soft diecast zinc, and the stainless steel self tapping screw made its own threads.

 

The only way to release the locked steering is to remove the lock! Either that or unbolt the steering shaft from the steering box at the small "guibo" that connects the two.  Then you'll be able to at least straighten the wheels to get it up on a flatbed, but someone will have to attend the wheels as the car's being pulled onto the flatbed to keep 'em straight.

 

mike

 

 

[Carrot]

I wasn’t using the proper tool smh maybe that’s why: I was just using a tool that fitted in that hole: I’ll definitely go by harbor freight and pick up the right tools. Maybe that’s why it wasn’t releasing. Thanks 

[Carrot]

I wasn’t using the proper tool smh maybe that’s why: I was just using a tool that fitted in that hole: I’ll definitely go by harbor freight and pick up the right tools. Maybe that’s why it wasn’t releasing. Thanks 

[Carrot]

I don’t how to reply to a comment on here lol, but Mike, if I understand correctly you mean the key lock? After that I’ll be able to turn it ? 

[tech71]

4 hours ago, Carrot said:

I don’t how to reply to a comment on here lol, but Mike, if I understand correctly you mean the key lock? After that I’ll be able to turn it ? 

First lets get on the same page nomenclature wise, lets call it the lock cylinder shall we?

Its the assembly that accepts your key, contains the tumblers ect.

You have to remove it to get at the steering lock assy, once its out  insert a large flat blade screw driver into the slot and turn to release  steering lock. Maybe need to wiggle the wheel a bit while turning it. Take it easy, the metal there is thin and brittle. A good spritz  of silicone spray would  probably be helpful.

I have never tried knocking the pin up into the lock cylinder, I  always drill them out.

From what I have read, knocking the pin upwards only works if your ignition is turned to start, you need a key for that.... Going to have to drill that pin dude..or find a key that fits

 

Edited March 13 by tech71

[tech71]

4 hours ago, Carrot said:

 

Oops, duplicate

Edited March 13 by tech71