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jimk

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For EFI guys.  Here is the ultimate crank position pulse generator and cam sensor built into one.

 

Eliminates the need for installing a toothed wheel on the crankshaft and mounting a sensor.

Provides a cam pulse for FULL SEQUENTIAL fuel and ignition EFI.

 

Remove distributor cap, rotor, vacuum advance pot and points plate. Lock the mechanical advance.

Fit a drive button in place of the rotor. Set the Puck with adapter on the distr housing.

Connect a 4 wire cable, +12v, sensor ground, crank pulse and cam pulse from the ECU.

Set the synch same as a toothed wheel/sensor would need.

 

You find an AEM puck.20240128_152510.thumb.jpg.028d390756d03dc6a23b990435ee8d85.jpg

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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3 hours ago, jimk said:

find an AEM puck

@jimk are you running it or planning to?

I can't find it on AEM's website. Any idea why they're no longer available?  Did Holley kill them, too?

Is this it?

I've read various posts about theories on why crank sensor vs. cam, but seems like cam sensor should be adequate for m10s to time EFI and spark.

 

1976 2002 - Segundo

1936 Ford pickup hotrod, 2010 Honda Ridgeline

Segundo blog

Paoli (PA) Car Show - Oct 5, 2024

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13 hours ago, ray_ said:

Jim, are you running it on your S14 yet?

 

Cheers,

I have the adapter drawn.  I wish I had concoction before installing a crank wheel and cam sensor.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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11 hours ago, JQ02 said:

@jimk are you running it or planning to?

I can't find it on AEM's website. Any idea why they're no longer available?  Did Holley kill them, too?

Is this it?

I've read various posts about theories on why crank sensor vs. cam, but seems like cam sensor should be adequate for m10s to time EFI and spark.

 

My hunch is the puck was marketed for V-8s with a distributor because I acquired this puck on a drive base for a small block Chevy intended to toss the dizzy and drop in the AEM.  The dizzy technology became obsolete and the crank mounted wheels became the norm.  AEM had a neat device that very few EFI people wanted.  Now it's seems to be a perfect device to simplify the work to the M10 and S14 engines or where there is a cam driven distributor.

 

The "crank" and "cam" sensor terminology is an industry poor choice of words.  A "crank" sensor is actually a crankshaft position sensor and doesn't tell whether the engine is in the 0-360 degree portion of an engine cycle or the 360-720 degree portion.  The "cam" sensor tells that after this signal, upon the next crankshaft sensing missing tooth, to restart the crank degree count (at zero).  Doesn't matter where these sensors are located, so long as the counts are recognized correctly.

The Puck produces two sets of 24-1 pulse counts per one turn of the camshaft and one count of the "cam" sensor.  The same as if sensing on a crankshaft wheel + a camshaft single tooth.

Edited by jimk
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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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7 hours ago, 02TurboMI said:

More details @jimk! This is mega!!

 

I am literally in the middle of modding my dizzy to use a hall sensor but this wipes out that plan!

Finding a Puck is the hard part.  To find one, it may be necessary to contact AEM directly for NOS pucks.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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I really like this idea more than a toothed crank gear.

I called AEM (well, Holley answers the phone and then they transfer you 😕 ). They don't have any stock.

This post Alfa post is interesting. It looks like an adapter will be needed to mount it to the dizzy(?) @jimk is that a 2002 dizzy and does it have any kind of adapter? Could you take a picture of the underside?
(edit: looking more closely at your picture, does it have a plastic adapter between the puck and the dizzy?)

If I can find one, I should be able to 3d print the adapter out of ABS and then I might send the CAD somewhere to have it milled out of aluminum. ... IF I can find a puck.

 

I found the instructions on AEMs website, but via google, not via search on their site.

 

Edited by JQ02
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1976 2002 - Segundo

1936 Ford pickup hotrod, 2010 Honda Ridgeline

Segundo blog

Paoli (PA) Car Show - Oct 5, 2024

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45 minutes ago, JQ02 said:

I really like this idea more than a toothed crank gear.

I called AEM (well, Holley answers the phone and then they transfer you 😕 ). They don't have any stock.

This post Alfa post is interesting. It looks like an adapter will be needed to mount it to the dizzy(?) @jimk is that a 2002 dizzy and does it have any kind of adapter? Could you take a picture of the underside?
(edit: looking more closely at your picture, does it have a plastic adapter between the puck and the dizzy?)

If I can find one, I should be able to 3d print the adapter out of ABS and then I might send the CAD somewhere to have it milled out of aluminum. ... IF I can find a puck.

 

I found the instructions on AEMs website, but via google, not via search on their site.

 

If we can get enough people interested in a group buy we might be able to convince Aem/Holley to make another run of them.

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3d print a shutter wheel with whatever patterns your engine management wants,

then just mount opto sensors in your existing distributor, a la the 'electronic' ignitions of the 90's.

 

60-2, 36-1, binary cam, dual quadrature cams, whatever you need.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/optical-sensors/photointerrupters-slot-type-logic-output/547

 

Do use a high melting point filament, tho!

 

Me, I'm still a crank- firing fool...

WIKI.AUTOSPORTLABS.COM

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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35 minutes ago, TobyB said:

3d print a shutter wheel with whatever patterns your engine management wants,

then just mount opto sensors in your existing distributor

That's a really interesting idea @TobyB. I wasn't aware of digikey. It felt like the first time I visited McMaster 😮 

Given this will be my first venture into DIY ECUs (megasquirt), I'm thinking I should stick to as many off the shelf (or proven custom parts as possible). I'll have some time to kill while Segundo is getting painted, so who knows.

 

@2002iii I'd be down for a group buy, but it feels like a long shot.

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1976 2002 - Segundo

1936 Ford pickup hotrod, 2010 Honda Ridgeline

Segundo blog

Paoli (PA) Car Show - Oct 5, 2024

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Here is the r1 (the one in the picture) and r3 (for material reduction).  Top surface is the same for both.

And the distr rotor post drive button.

Picture was with a 002 distr. 

M10 Puck Adapter_r1.pdf M10 Puck Adapter 1_r1.pdf M10 Puck Adapter_r3.pdf M10 Rotor Post Adapter.pdf

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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5 hours ago, JQ02 said:

That's a really interesting idea @TobyB. I wasn't aware of digikey. It felt like the first time I visited McMaster 😮 

Given this will be my first venture into DIY ECUs (megasquirt), I'm thinking I should stick to as many off the shelf (or proven custom parts as possible). I'll have some time to kill while Segundo is getting painted, so who knows.

 

@2002iii I'd be down for a group buy, but it feels like a long shot.

Mouser is another vendor similar to Digikey. https://www.mouser.com/ Digikey has a cool feature where someone who has designed a gadget can create a bill of materials (BOM) out of a list of components and then share out a number for it. You can then dump all that stuff into your basket with a click or two and bob's your uncle. https://www.digikey.com/en/help-support/place-an-order/build-a-bom

 

 

 

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