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02TurboMI

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Everything posted by 02TurboMI

  1. I'm looking for a stroker crankshaft for my M10 Turbo build and came across ZRP-USA. Does anyone have experience with this brand? Or would you guys recommend an alternative stroker crank? BMW M10 2002 / Stroker S14 Billet Crankshaft ZRP-USA.COM The ZRP crankshaft for BMW S14B20 is manufactured from aerospace grade 4340 solid billet steel and no compromises have been made to the quality of the material, in order to ensure the best possible pr
  2. I may get some hate for this, but I've always been a fan of the JDM flares. I'm not a fan of the Hirotaka rear wing though. OP - I like that render a lot, but the proportions are way off.
  3. More details @jimk! This is mega!! I am literally in the middle of modding my dizzy to use a hall sensor but this wipes out that plan!
  4. Oh yeah, 3-time Formula Drift champion Chris Forsberg...no big deal. 😆
  5. Speaking about Linear Springs specifically... One point of discussion that I'd like to note, is the length of the spring should not impact the overall performance of the spring. "325 lbs/in" does not relate at all to the spring length, only to the resistive force of the spring during compression and expansion. The length also effects the spring travel (an 8in spring can compress twice the length of a 4in spring, assuming same rate). I've heard a lot of talk about 7in vs 8in springs with different rates, and my brain started hurting remembering way back to my Dynamics engineering course in college. So a quick phone call to H&R confirmed, spring length does not affect overall performance (compression and tension). There are some minor differences (i.e. load at block, block height, etc), but those parameters are outside of the the scope I believe we are discussing here. Also, this comment negates ride height adjustability with different length springs
  6. Hopefully we can settle the long-standing debate here and turn this into a technical article. As of January 28, 2024... FRONT STRUT INSERTS: There 3 options for Bilstein B6 (HD) front strut inserts: PN 34-000250 - for "lowered" cars; Parameter 200/60 PN 34-632192 - for "stock height" cars; Parameter 150/80 PN 34-000236 - for "stock height" cars; Parameter 163/76 There is 1 option for Bilstein B8 (Sport) front strut inserts: PN 34-276433 - for "lowered" cars; Parameter not listed REAR SHOCKS: There are 2 options for Bilstein B6 (HD) rear shock absorbers: PN 24-008037 - for "stock height" cars; Parameter 121/57 PN 24-632140 - for "stock height" cars; Parameter 233/66 There is 1 option for Bilstein B8 (Sport) rear shock absorbers: PN 24-001182 - for "lowered" cars; Parameter not listed Now the questions: What do the "parameters" represent? I'm assuming compression dampening and rebound? Which B6 front struts and rear shocks do you pair together? I've reached out to Bilstein to get some answers.
  7. @Pouya Just sent you a text. I'm interested!
  8. Is this the same Le that started LT Motorwerks?
  9. Here's a pretty great breakdown of the hardline options out there...this is specifically what Holley/Earl's offers...
  10. It can also buckle and crack over time....buckle might not be the right word, but it's the most brittle out of Al, Cu/Ni, or SS
  11. I'm using the Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 200 kit (200LPH pump) and am using this diagram as a reference. Instead of AN-06 "soft lines" I'm using 3/8" Earl's Easy Form Hardline (Copper/Nickle Alloy) with Earl's fittings. And then AN-06 braided stainless from the body to any sprung mass (meaning the fuel rail, FPR, etc. In most cases, I think it's better to find a brand and stick to it because everything is usually ensured to work together (and warrantied together). So Earl's Cu/Ni line using Earl's/Holley flare tool to Earl's AN fittings to Earl's braided stainless - Although Vibrant makes some pretty sweet looking nylon braided lines that are black/blue and back/red interwined so you can differentiate fuel/oil/water lines. *Important to note that PTFE lined host requires different AN fittings than standard (non-PTFE lined) hose.
  12. The US-spec 02s with the meaty steel front bumpers have these supports welded to the frame rails. Does anyone have experience with replacing frame rails and NOT having to remove the nose of the vehicle or cut out these supports? I have a set of frame rails from WN. Hoping to just cut out the old and weld in the new but these supports are making that choice difficult.
  13. These are actually not NLA, and we’ve got them in stock. Shoot me an email and I’ll get you a set. Manufactured by TRW for the early model 2002s. matt@2002underground.com
  14. Thanks T! Just the validation I was looking for! ?
  15. Anyone got any tips for actually measuring the body dimensions? Specifically the cross-car, rear subframe bolt hole to front subframe bolt hole? I’m thinking plumb lines but the tolerance here is +/-1mm which isn’t a lot of margin hah
  16. Still have these? I'm interested. PM sent.
  17. I see a couple people using the rear subframe mounting bolts for the rear part of the cart. How has that worked out? Any issues? Thanks!
  18. Still for sale? Also interested. Thanks!
  19. Sorry if I've missed where this has already been discussed, but anyone ever use a Bosch Pressure/Temp Sensor and just mounted it near the dizzy (with an M12x1.5 to 1/8 NPT), in place of the OEM pressure switch? I'm trying to gauge (no pun intended) if this will get an average pressure/temp of the oil system. Thoughts? https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-010920-bosch-fluid-pressure-and-temperature-sensor/
  20. I’ll take them! How many sets you got? CV joints all working well?
  21. Is this the complete compilation from the "Blue Binders" Repair Service Book Sets (both books)? Was going to buy a set on ebay, but want to know if this includes everything!
  22. Adding some info to an old post. The G260/6 from E34 535i bolts up directly to the M10. I don’t have personal experience with this but the trans is out there and there’s a guy who posted recently on the “BMW m10 engine world” Facebook group about it.
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