Right side motor mount question

[Pablo M]

I’m sorry for asking so many questions. I feel many of them are silly and easy, but they put my mind at ease. 
 

I have my head and exhaust manifold off the engine currently and looks like it would be easy to replace the motor mounts. 
Seems if I remove the two lower and one upper nut on mount, then unbolt the bracket from the block, I could remove the assembly without lifting the engine, or lifting it very little (with a jack and wood block). 
Seems better than lifting it further to clear the bracket bolted to the block. 
Seems too easy lol. Is it really that easy? Or is there something I don’t know about? Service manual hasn’t been super helpful on this one. 
 

[Tommy]

Yep, it shouldn't be harder than that. 👍

[Stevenc22]

You will need to lift the motor a little, but once up, changing the mount is a piece of cake. Might as well change both sides while at it.

['76mintgrün'02]

It might help to loosen the transmission mount prior to lifting the engine.  

 

The limiting strap gap is important, to keep the fan from kissing the radiator.

 

 

[James Laray]

I just did this.  I used my bottle nose jack to lift the engine slightly (secured where the oil pan mates to the block).  Not enough weight to damage anything, but just enough to take some pressure off the mount.   Years back as a teenager I did this using a floor jack to the oil pan directly with no issues.   Again you are only absorbing a fraction of the engine weight.   Of course do only one mount at a time. 

 

The passenger side rubber mount is secured to the subframe with a bolt descending on the forward side.  The rear side bolt is reversed,  with a nut on top securing a socket head (allen) cap bolt ascending from the bottom.

 

When I removed the nut on the back side, the bolt fell out on the floor.   This sort of confused me at first and I thought some mechanic dicked it up sometime in the past, but this is by intent.  

 

After much confusion I noted a hole in the subframe intended to lift the socket head cap bolt back into place using an allen drive "L" wrench. 

 

Make sure you get the sled bracket spaced properly as already noted.  

 

Be prepared to have a pry bar on hand when installing the new mount.  You will need to gently pry the flexible new block into position to align the holes for the bolts.   It is beefier than the one you removed.   You may need to gently lower and raise the engine to dance with it until you get it. 

 

 

 

Edited October 18, 2023 by James Laray

[Pablo M]

2 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

You will need to lift the motor a little, but once up, changing the mount is a piece of cake. Might as well change both sides while at it.

I was planning on it. The driver/left side seemed easier. 

[Mike Self]

I changed out my right motor mount by loosening the mount brackets, then placing a short length of 2x4 atop a small scissors jack and lifted (gently and slowly!) on the oil pan, watching (from underneath as I cranked) to make sure the fan and radiator didn't get too amorous.

 

mike

[Pablo M]

3 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

I changed out my right motor mount by loosening the mount brackets, then placing a short length of 2x4 atop a small scissors jack and lifted (gently and slowly!) on the oil pan, watching (from underneath as I cranked) to make sure the fan and radiator didn't get too amorous.

 

mike

The radiator is out, as is the head and distributor, so no clearance issues, which is another reason I thought it would be even easier. 
Only thing I’ll worry about is making sure the cam chain continues to maintain tension. I have it suspended from top of hood with a bungee cord (and I have a rod in place keeping the hood from falling). 
you can see what I mean here. Prop rod is on drivers side to allow working access on passenger side. 

[James Laray]

I too opted to replace the mount because I had pulled the head with the cam sprocket suspended by a rope to the hood.  With the exhaust out the way it was easy access.  

 

I waited until I got the head back on (without the exhaust) to do the mount.    

 

If you choose to replace the mount without the head, you may need to elevate the engine slightly and then check the tension on the rope securing your pully.  Back and forth.    

[Pablo M]

6 minutes ago, James Laray said:

I too opted to replace the mount because I had pulled the head with the cam sprocket suspended by a rope to the hood.  With the exhaust out the way it was easy access.  

 

I waited until I got the head back on (without the exhaust) to do the mount.    

 

If you choose to replace the mount without the head, you may need to elevate the engine slightly and then check the tension on the rope securing your pully.  Back and forth.    

That’s exactly what my son said to do. I think that’s probably a safer bet, even though it’s a bungee cord and not a fixed length rope. I’m just looking for projects to tackle while I wait for parts to put the head on. 

[Mike Self]

You can also keep the timing chain from jumping sprocket teeth while the head is off by taking a zip tie and pinching the chain together below the cam sprocket.   Combined with the bungee cord, your chances of it slipping are nearly nil.

 

mike

[Pablo M]

1 hour ago, Mike Self said:

You can also keep the timing chain from jumping sprocket teeth while the head is off by taking a zip tie and pinching the chain together below the cam sprocket.   Combined with the bungee cord, your chances of it slipping are nearly nil.

 

mike

I actually saw that mentioned in another post when I was researching on here. I did that already as well! Thanks.