Is my fuel pump shot??

[OldRoller]

Pump does all the work, providing suction. If the engine will not fire off using ether (shot in the carb) or gas dribbled in the throat, then you have other issues... no spark, spark at the wrong time, low compression, valve timing off, etc.

At this point I would pull all the plugs and do a compression check. All 4 cylinders should be with 10% of each other. I would expect to see about 140 psi on your 2.0, more or less. Check with coil disconnected and throttle held wide open. 

If good, reinstall plugs and check your points, and timing. Check the forum for info on all the above, tons of information here!

[OldRoller]

A lot of really good info in this post:

 

[Hans]

15 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Hans, the op can't get it to fire on ether so at this point the carb is not in the question.

OK, I thought we had flagged ignition in previous posts. OP needs to check full ignition system and timing. 

Be mindful of old saying: most of your carb problems are electrical.

Edited June 28, 2023 by Hans
more

[Hans]

6 hours ago, NonStopTy said:

Thank you. I understand now. I am goona pull the line today...Dont smell much gas in engine bay. 

Throttle cable is pretty fluid. How can I tell if the carb is gummed up?

 

Question. How does it draw the fuel from the tank? Is it creating vacuum only from the fuel pump, or does the carb do some sucking as well??

 

last time it ran was 2016/17

 

 

The pump sucks from the tank, then pushes to the carb. So with engine being cranked, fuel should come out hose at carb. Carb sucks air and fuel down the throat.

What do you mean by "throttle cable"? Carb is operated by solid linkage. Maybe manual choke?

After six years, carb may need cleaning. Do full check on ignition, see if it will start. If not, time to pull carb and do cleaning. Best to search in here for instructions. You may need rebuild kit.

[Hans]

If you clean with aerosol carb cleaner and fine tube, WEAR EYE PROTECTION.

[NonStopTy]

On 6/29/2023 at 11:33 AM, Hans said:

If you clean with aerosol carb cleaner and fine tube, WEAR EYE PROTECTION.

ok I can confirm we have spark and we also have gas being pulled to the carb. Not sure what’s happening after it enters the injection  port….does this signal a carb cleaning? 
 

does that mean I have to retune the carb? 

 

 

video attached 

[Mark92131]

Verifying Spark and Fuel to the carb is a good start.  So other things to check would be as follows:

 

1. Adjust the valves

2. Compression, pull all the plugs (clean and gap them) and run a compression test

3. Ignition - verify TDC for plug #1, pull the valve cover, rotate engine until both #1 valves are off cam (closed) and cam mark lines up with oil bar and Flywheel TDC mark is lined up in view hole above starter.

4. Verify that rotor is pointed at #1 spark plug lead on cap and leads clockwise are in proper firing order.

5. Turn engine over until points block is on the highest point of distributor shaft cam and adjust points gap to .016"

6. Reinstall rotor, cap, spark plugs, spark plug/coil lead(s)

7. Slightly loosen the 10mm nut on the base of the distributor so you can turn it clockwise or counter clockwise with some effort.

8.  Spray a shot of starter fluid down the carb throat (open choke flaps).

9.  Have an assistant try and start the car.  It should fire and run.  If it fires and dies, you are just running on the starting fluid and the carb is not working correctly, (clogged idle jet, float adjustment, etc.).  If it does not catch (fire) while cranking, the ignition timing maybe off, so you can slowly turn the distributor back and forth while your assistant cranks it over to see if you can get it fire.

 

Other will have more...

 

Mark92131

[Son of Marty]

Make sure your plugs are gaped at .028-.030.

[tme]

Consider adding your location to your profile.  You may get some offers of in person help.

[Hans]

(RE: shopping list above, I'd do compression test as last resort.

#1 plug should spark as engine is turned past said # 1 TDC. That will get you started until you can set properly.

Set points gap before setting timing.

As further back in posts, treat as flooded. Hold pedal to floor and give it a good 10 sec crank.  Try some quick start spray. Choke plates should b e open.

If that fails, Then its on to cleaning carb. Removing it means youre less likely to drop pieces. I would clean jets and passages with carb cleaner spray/tube. Six years old gas has turned into varnish.

 

[NonStopTy]

16 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

Verifying Spark and Fuel to the carb is a good start.  So other things to check would be as follows:

 

1. Adjust the valves

2. Compression, pull all the plugs (clean and gap them) and run a compression test

3. Ignition - verify TDC for plug #1, pull the valve cover, rotate engine until both #1 valves are off cam (closed) and cam mark lines up with oil bar and Flywheel TDC mark is lined up in view hole above starter.

4. Verify that rotor is pointed at #1 spark plug lead on cap and leads clockwise are in proper firing order.

5. Turn engine over until points block is on the highest point of distributor shaft cam and adjust points gap to .016"

6. Reinstall rotor, cap, spark plugs, spark plug/coil lead(s)

7. Slightly loosen the 10mm nut on the base of the distributor so you can turn it clockwise or counter clockwise with some effort.

8.  Spray a shot of starter fluid down the carb throat (open choke flaps).

9.  Have an assistant try and start the car.  It should fire and run.  If it fires and dies, you are just running on the starting fluid and the carb is not working correctly, (clogged idle jet, float adjustment, etc.).  If it does not catch (fire) while cranking, the ignition timing maybe off, so you can slowly turn the distributor back and forth while your assistant cranks it over to see if you can get it fire.

 

Other will have more...

 

Mark92131

thank you!! will try all of this today! 

 

13 hours ago, tme said:

Consider adding your location to your profile.  You may get some offers of in person help.

Great idea! You guys are very help full

 

Im in Elk Grove VIllage, Illinois. 25 min west of Chicago. I will add it. 

10 hours ago, Hans said:

(RE: shopping list above, I'd do compression test as last resort.

#1 plug should spark as engine is turned past said # 1 TDC. That will get you started until you can set properly.

Set points gap before setting timing.

As further back in posts, treat as flooded. Hold pedal to floor and give it a good 10 sec crank.  Try some quick start spray. Choke plates should be open.

If that fails, Then it's on to cleaning carb. Removing it means youre less likely to drop pieces. I would clean jets and passages with carb cleaner spray/tube. Six years old gas has turned into varnish.

 

#1 is sparking thats the one I check, should I check them all?? 

 

I tried the spray, small little explosion and then nothing....

 

Pedal to the floor solves a flooded carb?? Interesting....Learning a lot here. 

Cleaning the carb was my guess. Thanks! 

[Hans]

Check the timing with #1 sparking as you turn motor pasf TDC as discribed. Please confirm what you've done as you go. 

Make sure plug wires are fully seated. Use a spare plug to test other wires later if still stumped.

 

 

[NonStopTy]

On 7/2/2023 at 9:05 AM, Hans said:

Check the timing with #1 sparking as you turn motor pasf TDC as discribed. Please confirm what you've done as you go. 

Make sure plug wires are fully seated. Use a spare plug to test other wires later if still stumped.

 

 

Pulled the carburetor off today….

This looks pretty bad. 
What does this tell you??

 

all plugs are working. 
timing is proper….

 

 

[OldRoller]

Flooded... stick paper towels/rags in the intake, clean out the old fuel sitting in the manifold. Remove the plugs, let her air out for a bit and turn it over a few times. Reinstall the plugs, the carb and try to start it, no pumping of the pedal, just close the choke.  

You may coax it to life!

 

[Hans]

I'd  replace that gasket. May be worth cleaning jets while its off.