Engine OMG! Identify all the things that are wrong (pics)

[rstclark]

I’ve been in you exact position buying a 76 in California as my first project At first I thought it would be worthwhile re smogging  the car and it would be just fine, but in a very short time I realized I would not be happy with the car and wanted to mod a car for better driving and more enjoyment. In the end I was sorry I spend any time and money on smog equipment trying to solve an immediate problem and happy that I stepped back to look at the bigger long term picture.

My solution was to find a 75 and combine the two cars 

Sorry to be so blunt in my previous response but. stop and ask yourself what you want long term

I once told Carl Nelson I had a really nice 76. He said there is no such thing as a really nice 76 in California I took his advise and never regretted it.

 

[Mark92131]

16 hours ago, Salamander said:

The hoses to/from the air pump have been severed from the diverter valve and the belt is missing. 

 

You will need to sort these out.  You may want to check if the smog pump turns, they are getting hard to find if seized.  The original vacuum connection to the fuel return valve was correct, no need to cap it.  The replacement distributor should have both a vacuum retard and advance port for a manual 1976 car.  Hopefully your smog tester won't notice.  Getting a 1976 to smog in CA is challenging, but very doable.  You are well on your way to getting all the components hooked up properly, keep going!

 

Mark92131

[Mark92131]

33 minutes ago, rstclark said:

I once told Carl Nelson I had a really nice 76. He said there is no such thing as a really nice 76 in California

 

Classic Carl!  (Owner, La Jolla Independent)

 

Mark92131

[Salamander]

Thank you, all!  

 

Here's where we're at:

 

I'll need to test the air pump and make sure it's not seized, connect a belt and re-connect the hoses, but at least the vacuum hoses are sorted.   Many, many thanks!!

[Salamander]

8 hours ago, rstclark said:

I’ve been in you exact position buying a 76 in California as my first project At first I thought it would be worthwhile re smogging  the car and it would be just fine, but in a very short time I realized I would not be happy with the car and wanted to mod a car for better driving and more enjoyment. In the end I was sorry I spend any time and money on smog equipment trying to solve an immediate problem and happy that I stepped back to look at the bigger long term picture.

My solution was to find a 75 and combine the two cars 

Sorry to be so blunt in my previous response but. stop and ask yourself what you want long term

I once told Carl Nelson I had a really nice 76. He said there is no such thing as a really nice 76 in California I took his advise and never regretted it.

 

@rstclark

This is a fair point of view. I appreciate your explanation. Admittedly, I’m excited about the project ( just purchased May 2). I will definitely give thought to a more long-term goal. 

[Conserv]

Even 8 years ago, some of the air pump hoses, and other various-and-sundry bits and pieces, remained available from BMW — I figured they over-produced them years ago, given the Federal government’s requirement to keep pollution controls operable years (and miles) after a car’s production date. I was even able to buy a new one-way valve (a.k.a., check valve, in front of the head) from BMW at that time. I also see NOS examples of various pollution parts available on eBay from time to time.

 

Good diverter valves are hard to find. They failed often, making your ‘02 backfire upon deceleration. Assume that half of the surviving diverter valves are no longer working.

 

The air pump is a GM-produced component that was also used on some 1970’s Chevy’s — and probably Pontiacs, Oldsmobiles, and Buicks. If you can find the GM part number, that would open another avenue for a replacement air pump — if yours in seized. Due to the enormous quantities of U.S. domestic cars, NOS parts are much more common than typical BMW parts.

 

Lastly, I’ve noticed that there are now shops rebuilding 1970’s A/C compressors, because the domestic muscle-car restoration population demands the use of the original compressors. These are the same “boat anchors” that ‘02 owners discard every day. (Yes, you can have your 1973 York reciprocating compressor rebuilt to perfect original condition and appearance for $600!) This makes me wonder if there are shops that rebuild 1970’s air pumps — to serve that same population. It would not surprise me…

I’d make a list of ‘02 emissions part numbers — from the parts catalogue — and start looking what’s available. But, of course, I’m pretty darned OCD…

 

I think I even saw an NOS thermal reactor exhaust manifold for sale within the last year!

 

I maintain the original emissions controls on my 49-state 1976. I do it because the car — I bought it new — is very stock and complete. But: (1.) the 49-state version has only the least-problematic components of a California-version 1976, and (2.) there is no emissions testing, whatsoever, for my NJ-registered 1976. So there’s that! 🙌

 

I agree, wholeheartedly, however, with @rstclark, that 1976 ‘02’s and California registration are a bad combo. You need to have a very good attitude, and lots of patience, to live with that! 😯

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[2002iii]

1 hour ago, Conserv said:

Even 8 years ago, some of the air pump hoses, and other various-and-sundry bits and pieces, remained available from BMW — I figured they over-produced them years ago, given the Federal government’s requirement to keep pollution controls operable years (and miles) after a car’s production date. I was even able to buy a new one-way valve (a.k.a., check valve, in front of the head) from BMW at that time. I also see NOS examples of various pollution parts available on eBay from time to time.

 

Good diverter valves are hard to find. They failed often, making your ‘02 backfire upon deceleration. Assume that half of the surviving diverter valves are no longer working.

 

The air pump is a GM-produced component that was also used on some 1970’s Chevy’s — and probably Pontiacs, Oldsmobiles, and Buicks. If you can find the GM part number, that would open another avenue for a replacement air pump — if yours in seized. Due to the enormous quantities of U.S. domestic cars, NOS parts are much more common than typical BMW parts.

 

Lastly, I’ve noticed that there are now shops rebuilding 1970’s A/C compressors, because the domestic muscle-car restoration population demands the use of the original compressors. These are the same “boat anchors” that ‘02 owners discard every day. (Yes, you can have your 1973 York reciprocating compressor rebuilt to perfect original condition and appearance for $600!) This makes me wonder if there are shops that rebuild 1970’s air pumps — to serve that same population. It would not surprise me…

I’d make a list of ‘02 emissions part numbers — from the parts catalogue — and start looking what’s available. But, of course, I’m pretty darned OCD…

 

I think I even saw an NOS thermal reactor exhaust manifold for sale within the last year!

 

I maintain the original emissions controls on my 49-state 1976. I do it because the car — I bought it new — is very stock and complete. But: (1.) the 49-state version has only the least-problematic components of a California-version 1976, and (2.) there is no emissions testing, whatsoever, for my NJ-registered 1976. So there’s that! 🙌

 

I agree, wholeheartedly, however, with @rstclark, that 1976 ‘02’s and California registration are a bad combo. You need to have a very good attitude, and lots of patience, to live with that! 😯

 

Regards,

 

Steve

GM used the same air pump all the way up to 1992. You can still buy them for about $150.

[rstclark]

Smogging a 76 in California is a challenge First it has to pass visual inspection to verify that all the equipment is in place Then it has to pass tailpipe emission testing at idle and on a treadmill run at 2,500 rpm This sounds straight forward enough but what really happens can very

. The first time I tried to smog my 76 , the techs had never seen a 2002 before and didn't even know how to check the timing. If your car does not have the emissions equipment sticker on the left front fender, that's good. If it does have it,I would remove it and the tech most likely won't even know what to look for They may just say  that looks okay and rely on the run test. Tune the car to spec,adjust the carb to a lean setting ,run it to normal or hot condition before testing and cross your fingers. 

Search out .a smog station that is pass or don't pay allowing you to get a baseline report of why it passed or why it failed then try to make adjustments including fuel additives that may make the car pass a second time.

I wish you the best of luck on your project.

 

[Salamander]

On 6/15/2023 at 1:33 PM, John76 said:

No... not to worry. It's the connection pipe to the diverter valve from the air pump.

@John76 The good news, John, is the air pump is not seized. At this point, should I connect a drive belt?  I believe I have the vacuum lines sorted - does this ‘capped’ hose coming from under the carb:

 

connect to the diverter valve here?

[Mark92131]

31 minutes ago, Salamander said:

connect to the diverter valve here?

 

The capped hose under the carb connects to the EGR Valve.  The EGR Valve has 4 connections, the red hose in your picture to the red valve on your firewall, a vacuum connection to the control valve, the uncapped connection in your picture, and a connection to the EGR filter that sits under your intake manifold that connects to a braided metal hose running to your exhaust manifold.

 

The diverter valve in your 2nd picture connects to your smog pump, the connection to exhaust manifold (through the check valve) and a vacuum connection on the front of your intake manifold.

 

You need to verify these connections and order the missing correct hoses.  The emissions stuff is in the engine section of RealOEM.com for your 76.

 

Mark92131

Edited August 17, 2023 by Mark92131

[Salamander]

1 hour ago, Mark92131 said:

 

The capped hose under the carb connects to the EGR Valve.  The EGR Valve has 4 connections, the red hose in your picture to the red valve on your firewall, a vacuum connection to the control valve, the uncapped connection in your picture, and a connection to the EGR filter that sits under your intake manifold that connects to a braided metal hose running to your exhaust manifold.

 

The diverter valve in your 2nd picture connects to your smog pump, the connection to exhaust manifold (through the check valve) and a vacuum connection on the front of your intake manifold.

 

You need to verify these connections and order the missing correct hoses.  The emissions stuff is in the engine section of RealOEM.com for your 76.

 

Mark92131

 

Thank you, Mark!  I totally missed the open connection on the EGR filter!

I've been referencing the RealOEM diagrams.  I guess what's throwing me off is that I do not have a dashpot, so I'm bypassing the white valve and speed relay.  I'll continue to study John76's diagram and order the missing hoses.

[Mark92131]

Here are the parts required.  Most are ended or NLA, but you can use some of the part numbers to search eBay or post a WTB ad on the FAQ.  Lots of CA owners have removed the smog equipment from their 75 cars and have these parts sitting on a shelf in their garage.

 

Mark92131