S14 Test Fit

[Mark92131]

Today was the day for test fitting my S14 motor in my 1970 BMW 1600.  My brother came over to help and we started the process of rolling the subframe under the body of the lift, raising the motor and trans with our modified motorcycle lift and then lowering the body to attach the subframe.  Well, it didn't go exactly as planned.  The thermostat is pretty tight, but the rubber hoses helped me pull it out of the way during the body drop.  Unfortunately, the S14 header and steering box are too wide to fit between the front frame rails without hitting the top of the frame rail flange.  I'm either going to need to pull the header or notch the flange on the top of the front frame rail to get the header/steering box to clear.

 

More alarming is that the motor/subframe will need to come forward about an inch to fit the guide pins on the body and I only have about an inch of clearance between the front pully and the 320i radiator.  Does BMW make a shorter water pump for the S14  or do people modify the motor mounts to get some extra room?  Any insight would be helpful.

 

So close, yet so far!

 

Mark92131

 

 

[tzei]

Engine first in place, then the header. I modded floor to be able  to use unmolested oe header. Can’t remeber if i did anything for engine mounts, think not. I use custom radiator and moved it a bit forward so can’t help you there but you can saw threaded nose off the pump to and go with e/fan to get tiny amount more space. I needed to move brake booster about 15 mm toward fender to clear oe air box. S14 oil cooler sits nicely under rad between frame rails.

[jimk]

Fixed my air box to brake booster clearance this way

[jimk]

Engine on M10 mounts, rad clearance to pump has room to change belts, no distributor needed, no hacking sheet metal on front support.

[williamggruff]

My M10, installed from below, wouldn’t go in without removing the Stahl header. You may have success removing the header, lifting the subframe and engine into the compartment, fitting the header with the engine still on the motorcycle jack, then maneuvering the subframe to mate with the frame rails. 

[Ian]

as mentioned, grind the nose of the water pump down and go with an electric fan.

[M3This]

3 hours ago, jimk said:

Engine on M10 mounts, rad clearance to pump has room to change belts, no distributor needed, no hacking sheet metal on front support.

did you use both M10 engine mounts. The Ardvark guide I though mentioned to use one M10 and one S14. 

[Ian]

I used both m10 mounts. No problems.

[jimk]

11 hours ago, M3This said:

did you use both M10 engine mounts. The Ardvark guide I though mentioned to use one M10 and one S14. 

Both M10.

[Mark92131]

20 hours ago, Ian said:

as mentioned, grind the nose of the water pump down and go with an electric fan.

 

Step #1 complete, angle grinder with cutoff wheel got me about 3/4" of clearance.  Ordered some low profile M6 sockets/bolts from Belmetric for the pulley

 

Mark92131

[jimk]

2 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

Ordered some low profile M6 sockets/bolts from Belmetric for the pulley

 

I used button head so a belt slides past easier.