Trunk torsion-spring adjustment?

[schuetz1619]

I'm convinced that the problem is that the reassembly of the spring by the body shop was incorrect: On both sides, the rod end that utimately bolts to  the chassis pivot points must be mounted in the top slot of the clamps, with the other end, the short stub bent at 90 degrees that lies against the lit, pointing upward, in the lower groove, and behind the other rod. (See photo.)

 

The left side was assembled correctly, so I left it untouched, padded the right side like a room in an asylum, and carefully removed the two bolts holding the right-side clamp to the lid. The explosion was minor, with no damage. I've moved the rignt rod ends into proper relative position (mirror image of the left) and spent s couple of hours wrestling to bolt the thing down. Given up for the night.

 

Is there a way of reassmbling this that requires only two arms and average strength? (O.K, I'm 75 and below average strength.) Still. . . .

[Tommy]

You can wedge the lid open with a broom stick and detach the levers, left and right, carefully from the body mounting point. That way you can release the tension in controlled manner  and mounting is way easier. Then as last step it's not too hard to strain them back and remount. 

[schuetz1619]

Thanks. I've done all that. It's the "strain them back in and remount" where I'm having such trouble--aligning everything and getting it in place enough to get in the bolts in straight without the retainer sandwich popping apart or crossthreading.

[Tommy]

Allright, I don't remember it being too difficult but it is maybe 12 years since I last mounted them. There may have been bigger wrestle than I recall.  I hope someone with fresher memories can help.

[Son of Marty]

[John76]

2 hours ago, Tommy said:

I don't remember it being too difficult but it is maybe 12 years since I last mounted them.

Tommy,

12 years ago, you were probably a lot stronger. 💪

I can't believe how heavy a can of beer feels now ... a Coors Light at that!

Cheers,

John

[schuetz1619]

Not sure whether I should start a new topic, but here goes.

 

Based on pictures from other cars, I realized that the springs were to be mounted symmetrically, with the long-lever end mounted on the top. Mine, dicked with by a body shop, was reversed on the right side. I suspect this was not a serious problem but I corrected it.

 

Now I can't connect the scissor lever to the chassis. The levers are on the correct sides, with the hook mounted as before, but they have a twist to them that makes mounting to the chassis impossible. Here are some pictures. It's as if the indentation on the lever where it contacts the spring rod is too shallow. I realize that's not th case, but that's what it looks like. I've exhausted my geometrical ingenuity, what there is of it. Any ideas what's wrong? (Yes, I know that the washers are missing. As is, I couldn't get them on anyway.)

 

Thanks.

[John76]

Almost there...needs a bit more adjusting.

It looks like your rod can be pushed closer to the mounting block.

Thick washer goes between the hinge arm(s).

 

John

 

 

[schuetz1619]

Thanks for the sharp eye. I'm aware of the slight assymetry here. It was present before I did the disassembly.

 

There is no more room, however,  to move the rod farther to the left––the bent tip of the rod on the other side is seated as far to the left as it can go into the metal fold (new pic.1). Even if this were a problem, though, I can't see how it would cause the issue at hand.

 

The stamped lever arm through which the hook passes needs to rotate another 10 degrees CW on the left, and symmetrically CCW on the right, for the arms to mount squarely onto the chassis studs. It is as if the indentation at the top of each arm needs to be deeper so that the arm can rotate to a square position.  As is, if I could got the nut to go onto the stud at all, I would have to torque it down heavily, putting a twist into the lever arm and creating a store of potential energy that shouldn't be there. 

 

New picture 2 shows the assembly as photographed parallel to the center line of the car. You can see the twist at the top of the lever arm. Picture 3 is a closeup showing the same rotation at the stud.

 

The rods and the levers assemble together in only one way with no adjustment. The same parts worked in the same places two days ago but they don't now.  I must be missing something really simple. AARGH. 

Edited March 23, 2023 by schuetz1619

[John76]

Having a bit of torsion on the stamped lever is OK.

I would put a crescent wrench on the flat lever (near the mounting stud) and give it a twist.

First, put a thick washer on the stud and another washer under the nut and tighten.

Those torsion bars can flex in all directions.

[schuetz1619]

O.K. Sure makes me nervous, though.

[jimk]

I looked over mine and if the lid is closed slightly the rod hook at the arm pulls away from the arm as the arm pivots down.  At that time the arm can be aligned on it's anchor and the nut tightened.

[schuetz1619]

Yes! I recall that and hadn't made the connection.

 

Thank you, as always.

[schuetz1619]

Well, I'm still on this, believe it or not.

 

I got the levers to go on their shafts just fine. So simple when you know what to do. Thanks to all.

 

I suspected that my attachment hardware--two flat washers and a collar nut each side--were probably generic parts from a body shop and not BMW parts. So I got the BMW parts. Only $28 (including shipping) from BMW for two nuts and 4 washers. 

 

The parts book illustration (41/28) shows that the arm goes onto the shaft FIRST, then the flat washer, the lock washer, and the "special" thin nut.  (The same one as on windshield wiper shafts.) This puts the lever arm in sliding contact with the body.  Hmm. And there is so much shaft sticking out beyond the nut, I wonder, why the "special" thin nut in the first place? Hmm again.

 

In John56's photo, (1) he shows two washers surrounding the lever arm, with the thicker washer on the inside, and (2) the washer under the nut, the thinner washer, appears not to be a lock washer.  A flat washer between the body and the arm makes mechanical sense but conflicts with the parts book illustration. What's right?

 

[Tommy]

Maybe a working solution is better than total originality in this case? I have the thin washer between and thicker one after, then a metal locking nut (not oem).