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schuetz1619

Solex
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Everything posted by schuetz1619

  1. It's yours. I'll get back to you later on--heading out the door now.
  2. Two of the three segments are fully intact. Both inner and outer layers of one red segment are damaged. As shown in pictures 1 @ 2, there is a large crack throughthe outer segment. The inner insert is warped from light-bulb heat and loose (picture 3). Postage additional @ actual cost.
  3. Answers to questions: The four mounted wheels are 5" originals, all powder coated thirty years ago. The edges are pretty ratty from three decades of exposure and countless weight attachments and removals. The spare is identical but not powder coated. The tires are new 175 / 70 13R Hankook Lauffens. The shimmy is through the wheel and the wheels diagnosed as not true are right rear and left front. I noticed the shimmy on my first freeway drive after mounting and returned to the store, where they did a road-force balance and examined the rims, thereafter giving me the "bent" diagnosis. The front spindles have good bearings, properly adjusted, with in-spec. run-out on the discs. Torque on all corners is 65 lb-ft. The shimmy is apparent when the car is coasting at speed and does not increase or decrease with brake application. Yes, Steve, I have had problems with shimmy before, but this was ultimately solved to my satisfaction in each case by road-force balancing. It is possible that I'm being now more critical than previously, but I doubt it. I know of nothing in my driving over the years that might have damaged the rims--no banging into curbs—for example—and the rims don't exhibit obvious contact damage. ________ I'll try mounting all four on the front spindles and and spin them to look for obvious defects and go from there. If any are indeed "bent" I'd love to have them straightened, but dozens of phone call have yielded no one who does this within 100 miles. I'll try some truck shops as suggested. I'll write again with the results. Thanks to all.
  4. My model 1971 euro tii has its original steel wheels with the original hubcaps (very good condition). This is how I've driven the car since I bought it 32 years and 102,000 miles ago. I just got new tires and learned at that time that two of the rims are sightly bent—enough so that there is light vibration from 55 to 65 mph, even after road-force balancing. I'd appreciate counsel on how to deal with this. I don't want to live with the vibration and I don't want to pass it on to a subsequent owner when I sell it in a few years. I have no experience with wheels for the 2002. Is there value in having the original tii steel wheels? Should I try to get the original rims straightened and refinished? (Nowhere to get this done within 100 miles, as far as I've been able to determine.) If I were to replace the wheels with aftermarket 13" units, might would be appropriate replacements that wouldn't break the bank? Thanks for any ideas you might have.
  5. NOS ignition-lock assembly, complete, with electrical switch and keys. Price includes shipping. This has been in my personal stock since purchase. My camera is out of order and I don't have a cell phone to take pictures. The photo is borrowed from Maximilian Imports.
  6. For sale are two new Walloth & Nesch master-cylinder seal rebuild kits for ti, tii, and Turbo. Pistons not included. Price is for each kit. W/N is the only supplier I can find for these. I ordered one for myself last week and got two extras for others who may need them. Postage within the USA included. The price asked is less than the W/N flat postage charge of $49.
  7. The manual calls for 16 +1.4 lb-ft torque on the securing nuts, compressing the four rubber bushings accordingly. Would this figure be different when using urethane bushings? Should the tightening be done with the full body weight on the tires? Thanks for any counsel.
  8. I understand that brake master cylinder 34-31-1-120-832, from some E12 6-cylinder cars, is interchangeable with the unit speicified by BMW for the 2002tii: 34 31 1 120 47. Both are 23.81 mm. bore. But are the guts interchangeable? Will a seal repair kit for one fit the other? Anyone know? Thanks.
  9. The wisdom on this forum is infinite.
  10. Thanks for the info. and advice. I didn't think of the "electrical" section. The screw is a tiny metric machine screw that I lost in transport acrosss the driveway. I had hoped to find the spec and / or the part in the catalog. It's not there, unfortunately.
  11. Do you know where in the parts catalogue one would find the parts for the handbrake-lever warning light switch? It's not under lighting or brakes as far as I can tell. Specifically, I'm looking for the little screw that holds the switch to the E-brake frame. Thanks.
  12. I did this 32 years ago but have no memory of the project. I used urethane bushings, which have gone pretty crispy-crunchy over time. I'm replacing them with the original-style rubber. I'm confident I can get the old ones out easily, but I don't know about getting the new ones in. Are these installable with some lubricant and a rubber hammer, or is proper press called for? Thanks in advance for any input.
  13. I'm not the seller. I posted a question that was never answered.
  14. Thank you. I'm not sure how I missed this but I did.
  15. Thnaks. That's what I found by way of a new cylinder: 34-31-1-120-832. I'd sure like to find rebuild kits, though. My cylinder is rust free--just needs new seals.
  16. Thanks to everyone for all the advice. Here are some additional thoughts and a suggestion that ultimately solved the project for me. Below is a cut-away diagram of the assembly from the Blue Book: This shows the position the components need to be in for assembly. The assembly will want to fall apart as you insert it into the frame and attempt to get the bottom of the "locking teeth element" (A) to catch onto the body. If you make it that far, the Suggestion: To prevent this, cut a piece of ½" dowel to the outer width of the lever at the pivot point. Wrap it with one layer of vinyl electrician's tape to slightly increase its diameter. With the assembly done as shown in the picture and the button pressed in fully and taped into that position, put the Ireland washers onto their collars and tape their tops to the lever. Insert the dowel into the pivot. The assembly will now remain stable through the mounting process. Slip (force) the lever into its frame and center the lever's mounting hole onto the corresponding holes in the frame. Now you can insert the bolt, pushing the dowel out the other side. If there's too much resistance from internal pressure on the dowel, catch the thread of the bolt onto the edge of the pivot and turn it by hand.
  17. Thank you. I figured there had to be solution out there, somewhere. By the time I received this message I'd spent a couple more hours on it and had figured out the pitfalls, all of the which Blunt pointed out in his excellent instructions. The last time I had this out was in 1992 and I recall it being a PIA then even without the washers or any seats/carpet in the car shell. I tried the tape alone and it didn't hold, probably because there is wear to the tip on the outside edge of the pivot tube and my mounting arms are somewhat bent. I tied the washers on with three pieces of thin thread, plus the tape, and that did it. Thanks again to all who responded.
  18. This looks like a well-designed, inexpensive fix for the standard floppy, loose 2002 parking brake: Three shim washers are added to both sides of the lever pivot to keep the assembly from wobbling. It might really well work if I could figure out how to assemble it. The issue is holding the outermost washers in place on both sides of the lever as you push, swing, and pivot the arm (complete with toothed gear, which slips out easily) into position to accept the bolt. I calculate that approximately 5 hands are necessary. Hos anyone successfully installed one of these? If so, I'love to hear how. Thanks.
  19. Has anyone recntly sourced reasonably priced rebuild kits for the tii master cylinder? The lowest I find is $280. Is there possibly something for another car that contains the same seals? Two years ago I got a tii master cylinder (FAG) for $200. Now they're north of $900. Whew.
  20. I started using this forum on rare occasions a half dozen years ago. Over the past six months or so, I've been here daily. I've bought some things, sold more, participated in discussions, and asked a lot of questions. Whithout fail I've received kind and valuable advice, and in some cases, detailed help with something thorny. In recent weeks I've had occasion to use other forums for my other BMW, an E30, and other purposes. The participants have been good people, but the depth of knowledge and support hasn't been quite the same. And the technical side of this site blows everything else I've seen out of the water. The self-described old-timers who created and maintain this site perform an extraordinary service for those of us still trying to keep half-century-old cars on the road, sometimes as daily drivers. (I've put 311,000 on my two 2002s, using them as daily drivers for 36 years.) It's a pleasure and honor to be involved with this community.
  21. I'm making a final entry here, in case it might be of use to anyone in the future. I've completed my installation, differently from what is illustrated in Realoem and the other parts catalogs based on the online versions of the BMW white books--also differently from what a number of other users of this forum proposed. The consensus in previous postings and those who responded to my posting was, from outside in, (1) nut, (2) thin flat washer, (3) arm, (4) thicker flat washer, chassis. Straightforward: The arm is surrounded by washers and secured with a nut. But the "part manuals" differ, showing from outside in, (1) thin M8 nut, (2) split stainless-steel (!) M8 spring washer, (3) M8 flat washer, arm, chassis. Two of these are special parts: the thin nut and the spring washer. BMW must have had a reason to use them, though I'm not sure what it was. The strange thing in this setup is that there's no washer to isolate the arm from friction with the chassis. I decided to use the three BMW-specified BMW parts along with an extra washer on the inside: I ponied up for the BMW parts only to find that the washers were nothing special and I could have had them from any hardware store with metric stock. The thin nut, however, provides a finished look if an extra washer is inserted against the chassis. Otherwise, a regular nut would just barely thread completely onto the shaft. Thanks again to the kind, helpful, and patient fellow users of this forum who responded to my post.
  22. Well, I'm still on this, believe it or not. I got the levers to go on their shafts just fine. So simple when you know what to do. Thanks to all. I suspected that my attachment hardware--two flat washers and a collar nut each side--were probably generic parts from a body shop and not BMW parts. So I got the BMW parts. Only $28 (including shipping) from BMW for two nuts and 4 washers. The parts book illustration (41/28) shows that the arm goes onto the shaft FIRST, then the flat washer, the lock washer, and the "special" thin nut. (The same one as on windshield wiper shafts.) This puts the lever arm in sliding contact with the body. Hmm. And there is so much shaft sticking out beyond the nut, I wonder, why the "special" thin nut in the first place? Hmm again. In John56's photo, (1) he shows two washers surrounding the lever arm, with the thicker washer on the inside, and (2) the washer under the nut, the thinner washer, appears not to be a lock washer. A flat washer between the body and the arm makes mechanical sense but conflicts with the parts book illustration. What's right?
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