Jenvey Heritage Install

[Dudeland]

 

11 hours ago, modernbeat said:

I thought Tom had retired from making more and was just selling what was on hand.

He has retired, You may get lucky.  I would love to pick up his torch and evolve his design.  Just no time.   

 

I see that the ireland one has some treaded holes in the front.  You may be able to play with hobiedave's offset on the a/c pulley and get it to work.  I have my a/c pulley running closest to the timing cover.  A very close fit, I have less then 1/2 an inch between the belt and the timing pickup. 

 

 

 

Edited May 3, 2021 by Dudeland

[SteadFast]

This will be my second harness I've made in my life.   I learned a lot from the first one, but forgot just how much time it takes.  I thought for sure I was going to be able to get all the connectors on this weekend.  NOPE.  I was able to get most of the cable braiding and heat shrink in place.  I also got 4 connectors in place for the LS coils.  Not perfect but much better than my first harness.  

[SteadFast]

Question for those that have done this (or something similar).  Thoughts on what to do with unused inputs/outputs?  My original thought was to group them together (making sure to cap the exposed wire ends) and stick them somewhere under the dash.  This way I can find them easily should I need them later.  Thoughts?

[jimk]

Snap the harness connector lock open and pull the leads not used.

Extra grounds and 5v leads are bundled under the sheath. To remove these, snip the lead a couple inches from the splice so the lead can be reconnected if needed.  The shielded cables are not so simple because the shield ground may be bundled with others at the connector.

[SteadFast]

Got some more work done this afternoon.  I designed an ECU/Fuse/Relay board that will go where the original cluster sat.  My digital dash then will sit in front of it.  I created the design in fusion 360 and then sent it to sendcutsend to be cut out with a laser.  I went with HDPE (.25 thick) for the material.  I wanted to easily be able to countersink the holes and it is very sturdy.  $25.71 later, this is what I got.  

 

Edited May 4, 2021 by SteadFast

[SteadFast]

Also got the wiring 75% done, just waiting on some additional connectors.  Also stole my wife's label maker and got some clear heat shrink to make sure I keep everything straight.  

 

 

[Leucadian]

This is going to be a clean install.  Looking really good!

[xr4tic]

How easy will it be to change a fuse if you pop one?

[SteadFast]

41 minutes ago, xr4tic said:

How easy will it be to change a fuse if you pop one?

 

Very, 4 screws to remove the dash surround and it will be right there.  Won't even have to leave the drivers seat.  

[irdave]

And that Haltech fuse box is just the fuses and relays for a couple of things the ECU needs to run directly- like the fuel pump, injectors, ignition.  So hopefully not needing to get to that too often.

[SteadFast]

The previous owner installed a lead acid battery in the trunk and ran 0 gauge wire.  I never loved the idea of such large wire running under the car.  That and a new fuel line under there made it a little cluttered.  Then I saw this post by xr4tic (hopefully he doesn't mind me copying him):

 

I then bought the same Antigravity battery off an open box Amazon sale for $180.  I'll fab something up simialr to hold the 3 pound battery.  Saves some decent weight from the lead acid battery and the 20ft of 0 gauge wire.

[SteadFast]

I got my fuel lines installed yesterday.  I ran 6an from the tank, up and over the diff, and then hardline alongside the car to the engine bay: 

 

[SteadFast]

Now a question: I plan on running the same air filter from my old setup: 

 

Is there a benefit to running small trumpets under the filter?  Something like this: 

[xr4tic]

yes, you'll want the trumpets, they smooth the airflow into the throttle bodies, without them it can cause turbulence and hurt performance.

 

They also usually require a minimum distance between the opening and the filter, at least an inch, but more is better.  So if the trumpets are an inch off the backplate, you'll need a minimum of a 2" deep filter (inside depth)

[AustrianVespaGuy]

On 4/18/2021 at 8:02 PM, xr4tic said:

 

Do you need full sequential fuel and timing?

 

Bank fire fuel + wasted spark will run just as well.

 

If you're tuning to the edge for a race motor, sure, go full sequential.  For a street motor, not necessary (IMHO)

I agree I wouldn't bother with cam timing, at least to start with. You can always add it later on if you decide you want to. Also, sorta along those same lines, your wiring is looking very nice but I highly recommend you put a few strategic connectors in a few places to 'break' it up and modularize things a bit.  When it comes to troubleshooting or any changes down the road, this can be a HUGE headache saver for adding/removing/changing out system bits without resorting to pulling the whole thing and/or trying pull wires all the way through the thing!

EDIT: Er, sorry, seems I was on page 2 of 3, looks like it's basically done now, oh well, looks great!

Edited May 11, 2021 by AustrianVespaGuy