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300 HP, How to Assemble Our Engines Engine Builders Chime In


Benjamin A.R.

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36 minutes ago, TobyB said:

even if you take the ring gear off?

 

t

troublemaker


The pressure plate is too bulky to fit in the svelte M10 bellhousing. 
 

The ring gear is in the same place believe it or not, a M10 flywheel works fine on a M30 engine. 
 

I found these truths out in real life before the internet when we were forced to think for ourselves. Doing a clutch on an Alpina B6 2.8 (E21). Alpina used the 245 OD mated to a built 2.8 M30. This one had ate the clutch (surprise!) and the rotational pressure plate springs had jumped out and gnawed on the flywheel requiring replacement. Customer had provided all new 240mm clutch/flywheel, no workee. 

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4 minutes ago, Lorin said:

I found these truths out in real life before the internet when we were forced to think for ourselves. Doing a clutch on an Alpina B6 2.8 (E21). Alpina used the 245 OD mated to a built 2.8 M30. This one had ate the clutch (surprise!) and the rotational pressure plate springs had jumped out and gnawed on the flywheel requiring replacement. Customer had provided all new 240mm clutch/flywheel, no workee. 

 

A little clearance action will take care of that issue.

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5 minutes ago, Benjamin A.R. said:

 

A little clearance action will take care of that issue.


I don’t remember  it being  even close, I believe you would cut through the bellhousing first. 

But give it a shot, worse case you destroy a $1000+ transmission nowadays, apparently. 

 

 

 

..

Edited by Lorin
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15 hours ago, 2002iii said:

 

First a couple notes:

You should never leave the engine hanging on the engine hoist for longer than you need to, I've seen too many motors dropped. Its called a engine hoist not an engine stand,

 

Beating on a puller is never going to help, beat on the part not the tool. Beating on the tool will most likely damage the threads.

 

I've burned my self enough times to remember to wear heavy leather gloves whenever using any kind of torch.

 

Now for the fun stuff:

 

Nice car and engine. How was it with 7 psi of boost?

 

What are the former and new engine specs?

 

I'm assuming the 240mm flywheel and clutch you talk about are from an m30, I've always wondered if they would work on an m10. I believe the m30 transmission's use the same input shaft splines and pilot bearings, so it should bolt in.

-Not a problem if it's not left unsupervised, but thanks

-Beating the puller works great. I've done it before and I'll do it some more

-Yeah so have I but sometimes I forget things it was a long work day prior 

-200k+ something mile bone stock original, 7psi with 2psi creep was a hoot maybe 180-200 hp? No clue feels fast though

-New engine is a 2.0 with forged .020 over pistons, 8.5:1, ARP main bearing studs, ARP rod bolts, a windage/crank scraper, MLS headgasket, stainless steel valves (39mm exhausts with faces ceramic coated), IE heavy duty rocker arms, heavy duty valvesprings, threaded and capped rocker shafts, ARP head studs

-The flywheel I have on standby is a rare lightweight 240 from an '83 533i I think they can also be found on some S motors but I forget. 

 

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18 minutes ago, Lorin said:

I don’t remember  it being  even close, I believe you would cut through the bellhousing first. 
But give it a shot, worse case you destroy a $1000+ transmission nowadays, apparently.

I disagree maybe I'll have a concrete answer at some point. If I'm taking measurements and the math doesn't add up then I'm not going to cut it obviously. If I screw up, which I've been known to do, I can put another forward case section on...not a huge deal. 

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11 minutes ago, Benjamin A.R. said:

-Not a problem if it's not left unsupervised, but thanks

-Beating the puller works great. I've done it before and I'll do it some more

-Yeah so have I but sometimes I forget things it was a long work day prior 

-200k+ something mile bone stock original, 7psi with 2psi creep was a hoot maybe 180-200 hp? No clue feels fast though

-New engine is a 2.0 with forged .020 over pistons, 8.5:1, ARP main bearing studs, ARP rod bolts, a windage/crank scraper, MLS headgasket, stainless steel valves (39mm exhausts with faces ceramic coated), IE heavy duty rocker arms, heavy duty valvesprings, threaded and capped rocker shafts, ARP head studs

-The flywheel I have on standby is a rare lightweight 240 from an '83 533i I think they can also be found on some S motors but I forget. 

 


There are a few factory light M30 flywheels, the 533 one is unique in that it has teeth for Motronic speed and reference sensors which is handy if you need that. 

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2 hours ago, Lorin said:


The pressure plate is too bulky to fit in the svelte M10 bellhousing. 
 

The ring gear is in the same place believe it or not, a M10 flywheel works fine on a M30 engine. 
 

I found these truths out in real life before the internet when we were forced to think for ourselves. Doing a clutch on an Alpina B6 2.8 (E21). Alpina used the 245 OD mated to a built 2.8 M30. This one had ate the clutch (surprise!) and the rotational pressure plate springs had jumped out and gnawed on the flywheel requiring replacement. Customer had provided all new 240mm clutch/flywheel, no workee. 

I was afraid this might be the case, with all the turbo power he's probably going to need the stronger transmission anyway. So widen the transmission tunnel and put in the m3 transmission or a cheaper m30 getrag 260.

 

There is a reason the m10 and m30 engine share parts the m30 is basically an m10 with 2 extra cylinders. If you look at the early 3.0l engines they use the same pistons and rods as a 2.0l m10.

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3 hours ago, Benjamin A.R. said:

Quick question for the gang, anyone know which is the to cooler/from cooler ports on an S14 oil filter head? I can probably figure it out, but just if anyone knows offhand. Had to change from a sandwich plate. New motor mounts moved things. @evil02 ? @tzei ?

IMG_20210301_094601.jpg

This should help:image_8228.jpg

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