evil02

Turbo
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About evil02

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Chicago

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  1. evil02

    S14 remote oil filter

    Diameter changes things too. Also, I would be interested in how much or little it can flow..
  2. Isn't your motor standing up straight or is it an an angle?
  3. I would think a T-5 or E36/E46 trans adapter would sell much better in the US. I don't think the type 9 and T5 are 100% the same but, I could be wrong.
  4. evil02

    5 Lug Swap Front Hubs

    Sounds good. Just speaking from experience, when they fail, there is not much left to check, lol..
  5. 1. Fill and drill your current hubs is the cheapest. 2. Convert your whole rear end to a factory E30 rear end is 2nd cheapest. See Catuned.com 3. Have hubs made from scratch, this is way more expensive than you think. 4. Buy Ken's setup, Very complete and looks great. Solutions 2 and 3 are your best bet if you are looking for strength and new wheels for your turbo build. Solutions 1 and 3 just get you new wheels
  6. evil02

    5 Lug Swap Front Hubs

    I would be cautious with T6 6061 for those hubs. Make sure you crack check frequently. When they break, it is very bad! I made many in the past(for non BMW track cars) and they always cracked. I stepped it up to 7075 and had zero failures. For rears, you better be looking at steel hubs. MM Bingo - why not get hubs from 2002 Underground?
  7. Aluminum, steel and other exotic materials can be made to operate in similar ways. It is just a matter of tubing diameters, thicknesses and material choice.
  8. Even the Mk2's flexed. You can see the paint on the seam sealer around the strut housings cracking on them. The Mk1's had aftermarket lower tie bars that helped too. I understand but, I wouldn't say it is useless. It boils down to what you want. I believe any bit helps. Now how much it helps vrs costs, is up to the buyer. My vote would be why not, it won't hurt and they are not that much money.
  9. We are kind of talking about the same thing but, I will agree to disagree with you. I don't care if you track the car or not, it flexes. Tracking the car makes it worse and that is why track cars are all welded up. I believe boxing any part of the car together has got to stiffen it up. The whole chassis is basically a U channel and the only thing that completes the "box" is the roof and the pillars. The pillars are the tiniest things in the world. That being said, tying the strut and shock towers would help. I mean, only every track car built would be wrong, lol.. As I said, roll your window down, drive one wheel up on a curb and feel the chassis flex.
  10. I'm just saying, you can get your car to twist pulling into an uneven driveway. That being said, that is the limit and it has nothing to do with people driving them hard. Its just simple structural geometry. Try what I said, roll your window down and drive up on a curb. $100 says you will feel the door shift as the body twists. Tie all the suspension points together and it will not flex as much.
  11. Sure, you could say that. I'm saying, if you have a track oriented suspension and tire setup where the next weak link is the chassis then, a cage tied to the suspension points and or just strut bars would help keep the geometry of your chassis as it should be.
  12. Anything that sticks rather than sliding.
  13. For normal street use with stock sized tires that were as wide as my first Huffy bikes rear tire, no, I don't think any brace is needed. Throw some tires on there that make the chassis work and I will bet you anything that they are better than nothing and they are in fact doing something.