Kugelfischer zero output has me stumped

[PaulTWinterton]

Ok, I get it.  That's a tough one. 

 

Maybe another option: cut the nut off with a Dremel with a very small cutting wheel, so as not to damage the shaft or pulley. Cut the nut into 2 pieces.  Easy to replace. 

 

Using an impact air tool...would the speed exceed 7000 rpms?  That's the max speed of the pump in normal use.  

 

 

 

 

[g_force]

10 hours ago, jimk said:

With a box end wrench held on the nut at the box end by one hand and held in the loosening direction to take the slack out of the wrench to nut, use a plastic faced hammer in the other hand and rap the opposite end of the wrench in a direction to loosen the nut.

 

Seems like this is an easy first thing to try.

[BarrettN]

Is there enough space behind the pully for a loop of thin rope that can be twisted to tighten it around the shaft to the point that it provides enough resistance to the shaft turning to allow enough torque to remove the nut? 

[irdave]

Alright, help me out here.  I haven't pulled anything on the top of the pump apart, but in essence, there's a crank connected with pistons kind of like a regular crank / rod / piston arrangement in an IC engine, no?  Is it possible to stick you finger into one of the holes where the injector line comes out and 'lock' the crank with your finger (or anything small and soft enough) and unscrew the nut?  Used to do something like this for removing crank nuts on dirt bikes- get the piston to almost tdc, then feed thin rope into the spark plug hole to prevent the piston rolling through tdc...

 

I would not recommend cutting the nut off.  I would take the pump apart first.

[Swiss 2002Tii]

21 hours ago, stephers said:

I would try and get a an air gun on the nut and see if that will take it off, I don't think bumping the engine will do anything or may cause more headaches 

Stephers izz da winnah!  Put an impact wrench on that  nut and it spun right off!

 

In the absence of the correct tool, I went down several suggested paths...

I was going to sneak this hard, strong coat hanger cut down to fit the keyway, but once the pulley is seated, there is no gap.

 

 

 

I also thought along the lines of irdave. 

"Is it possible to stick you finger into one of the holes where the injector line comes out and 'lock' the crank with your finger (or anything small and soft enough) and unscrew the nut?

 

Although I don't know if that would work, I was prepared to take the back end off of the pump to lock it while I turned the nut.

 

In the end, the right tool did the trick in two seconds! (Even at an extreme angle - I didn't have to pull my radiator!  Yeah!

 

And irdave, a friend of mine says:  "Sometimes Life just brings you what you need!"...  The local tool supply had an unbelievable offer on a STACK of DeWalt tools that lock together on a rolling trolley - Impact wrench, drill, hammer drill, and that grinder I've been hankerin' for.  I just bought a small farm in Portugal that needs a lot of work, so now I am armed and dangerous!

 

Thanks All for all of your help.  Like I said, I just slid into second base, I still have to get home!  I will try to start the car tomorrow, now that I can re-seat my pulley.  I believe the consensus that this is electrical may be right.  That's next.

 

Linkage is good, and correctly aligned to answer another question.

 

If the gods smile on me, it will simply be fouled plugs!

 

Geez!  Time to clean up the bench!??

 

 

 

 

Edited September 14, 2020 by Swiss 2002Tii
additional info

[stephers]

Glad that you got it off, after 45 years of working on these cars, still have a few tricks up my sleeve     Make sure that the woodruff key is tightly into the groove on the pump shaft, a little tapping with a hammer will seat in nice and tight    slight tapping only.

 

Thanks, Rick

[irdave]

Now that you have one, you'll question why you didn't buy one a decade ago.  They're so useful.

[g_force]

Yes, congratulations on your impact wrench. . . and the grinder. That's is a fun tool too.

[Swiss 2002Tii]

Success!

 

After making a copy of Paul's handy-dandy pulley-pinning tool (works like a champ). I put everything back together.

Set TDC, reset 123ignition dizzy @TDC, made sure the button in the cap was fully extended, aligned the KF pulley for TDC, adjusted the valves since I had the cover off.  New NGK BP6ES plugs installed.

The FunMobile fired right up!  Nice steady cold idle.

Many thanks to all for your guidance.

 

What was it all about?  Maybe thermal failure of my 123 dizzy or coil originally, then fouled plugs once I got my spark back?

I think I'll keep my timing gun and mech dizzy in the trunk for a while!?

 

My M6 studs for the valve cover are a bit beat up.  The studs are about 2" long with 3/4"of threads on each end, blank in the middle.

W&N has a straight threaded rod as a replacement.  I could make those from threaded rod I already have.  Are these hardened steel, harder than I would find at the hardware store?

 

Question:  Does anybody have a source for the original studs with blank centers?

 

Edited September 19, 2020 by Swiss 2002Tii
additional info

[stephers]

Have a look at Belmetric for the studs     Glad you got it all sorted out 

 

Thanks, Rick

[PaulTWinterton]

3 hours ago, Swiss 2002Tii said:

After making a copy of Paul's handy-dandy pulley-pinning tool (works like a champ).

 

Thanks for that.  Now I want to make a copy of your puller.  In your photo on page 1 of this thread you show it with flared nuts and without in the photo above. 

 

Questions:  (I`ve been debating with @stephers about the need for these to be hardened)

 

1.  Are the flared nuts required?

2.  Are the arms laterally adjustable to secure on the inside edges of the sprocket holes?

 

FWIW, W&N used to offer the proper valve cover studs in their engine rebuild hardware kit. 

 

 

 

[Swiss 2002Tii]

I moved the flare nuts from the puller to the holder for quick use.  I originally had to grind about 1mm from the edge of the flare nuts to get them to fit through the pulley holes.

I put it through the holes and rotate it slightly to get the flare nuts to grab the edge of the holes.  Having a slot for them to slide and lock to grab the edge would be an improvement, and make keeping the puller in position much easier.  Another mod to be done!