Brake Booster Questions

[2002#3]

['76mintgrün'02]

Hi Larry,

it looks like the photos loaded without the text.  I've seen that glitch happen a few times now and had to go back and edit my post, adding the text.  Nice photos.

Tom

[2002#3]

OOPS!  Thanks, Tom.  You're a good man.  Here is the original text...

 

1970 2002

Emptied, cleaned, and painted the brake booster.  New MC ready to be installed.

 

Photos 1 and 2:  Might that be an original or at least correct booster for a '70 '02?

Photo 3:  Might the yellow 90-degrees check valve (CV) in the upper left corner be an original or at least correct CV for a '70 '02?   I'd like to replace it; however, I can find only straight CVs (which likely will be sufficient).

Photo 4:  Half-pint of lovely brake fluid siphoned from the booster.  

 

Regards and thanks.

Larry

[rcf925]

After all that trouble I'd send it into Powerbrake for a rebuild. I'd hate to put back together and find it not working

[2002#3]

Thanks, rcf.  Your suggestion is a good one.  I did not know boosters could be rebuilt.

 

The brakes worked OK before; however, they were nothing to write home about.  The car slowed down and stopped... almost every time.  So, I have rebuilt or replaced all components of the entire brake system (except hard lines).  The poor braking could have been due to any single or several of the many worn out or completely dead components.  I think I will install the new MC and old booster and see what happens.  If the brakes still balk at my commands, your suggestion will be put into action.  I did not think the booster was all that difficult to remove, and the bitch clip...well, we'll see.

 

Larry

[Buckeye]

Larry, I don't have answer to your questions, but thought to share another brake booster topic posted recently. This topic is about filter and silencer on the back side.

 

Farshid

 

 

[rcf925]

I just did my Brake Booster and sent it to PowerBrake for rebuild, Works perfect, I had been driving for about a year with no power. I did manage to get booster off without removing any brake lines either which was nice, I just broke bitch clip off and put newer style on thats easier

[Mike Self]

At the risk of causing instantaneous, simultaneous failures, both my cars still have their original, unmolested boosters, and the '73 still has its original booster hose:  226k and 267k miles respectively--and both work just fine. 

 

The only thing that would worry me about yours, Larry is all that brake fluid that's been residing inside your booster.  While it won't really hurt the rubber diaphragm, it won't help the metal innards...

 

mike

[rcf925]

9 hours ago, mike said:

At the risk of causing instantaneous, simultaneous failures, both my cars still have their original, unmolested boosters, and the '73 still has its original booster hose:  226k and 267k miles respectively--and both work just fine. 

 

The only thing that would worry me about yours, Larry is all that brake fluid that's been residing inside your booster.  While it won't really hurt the rubber diaphragm, it won't help the metal innards...

 

mike

Exactly, Thats why I had mine rebuilt, Full of brake fluid, Not holding vacuum

[2002#3]

Is the Power Brake rehab company in San Jose and LA the one to which you (rcf) refer?  That the company?  I spoke with a "Luis" (?) in LA today.  Quote was $150 + ship.  Sounds like inexpensive insurance.  Am I contacting the correct person and company?  Any difference between the SJ and LA facilities?

Larry

[rcf925]

2 hours ago, 2002#3 said:

Is the Power Brake rehab company in San Jose and LA the one to which you (rcf) refer?  That the company?  I spoke with a "Luis" (?) in LA today.  Quote was $150 + ship.  Sounds like inexpensive insurance.  Am I contacting the correct person and company?  Any difference between the SJ and LA facilities?

Larry

 

Yes, I used the one in Santa Fe Springs. I had slight problem, When they mailed booster back to me they clocked it wrong, My Master would have been at a 45 degree angle, They were very apologetic, I sent back and had a 1 day turnaround, He also said he'd give me discount on any other work I had done for my troubles

[Toga]

Hi gentlemen,

 

I'm the poster relayed by Buckeye here above. I brought my booster to a brake specialist last Friday, and same opinion on this side of the pond: oil in the booster is no good and needs a rebuild. According to him, the rubber won't stay long after having been in contact with brake liquid.

 

JP

[2002#3]

All,

Thanks for the many excellent comments, suggestions, and references.

Looks like there are several recommended rebuilders from which to choose.  All are reported by several FAQ'ers to be quite reputable.  Here are the initial rebuilders I found.  I am sure there are others.

   White Post Restorations (VA):  $470; a MC must be sent with the old booster to assure rebuilt booster and MC work together and         do not leak; extensive testing; lifetime warranty

   2002AD (CA):  ~$300; one-day turn-around

   Ireland Engineering (CA):  $230; rebuilt units ready to go; require either old core or $100 core charge

   Power Brakes (CA):  $170; three CA locations

Please comment if you find these details are not accurate.

Larry

Edited June 23, 2020 by 2002#3
2002AD info added

[rcf925]

I just used Powerbrake, $160 total including shipping. If you call you get a better deal. You have to send in yours to get rebuilt