Headlight problem

[Happy Face]

My electrical woes just continue. - the latest, the headlights, low and high, do not come on. All other lights are working. Plus I can pull the stalk lever and the high beams do come on. But I can drive like that pulling the lever to keep lights on

 

This is a ‘72 car restored 11 or so years ago.

 

Not sure if this is a relay problem or an issue with the headlight switch.

 

A few pics of the existing relays in the car.

 

Any helpful tips or hints would be appreciated. Thanks - Dave

 

 

 

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[TG2k2]

Relays usually last a long time. The thing is even if the car was restored there is a good chance they left the original one if it was working. It might just be time for a new one. Sounds like you’re checking the right things but here is how I typically proceed with a bad relay...

First thing to do is make sure all of the contacts on the relay and other connectors in the line are clean. I am shocked at how the smallest amount of corrosion can make what is otherwise a clean line not work. If you haven’t done that already I would recommend scraping away any corrosion that may exist, making sure you get bare metal at the contact points. I typically use Deoxit D100L (red liquid that comes in what looks like a nail polish bottle) on all electrical connections before hooking them up to keep it free of rust/corrosion.

If you’ve done that and it still doesn’t work then try and have someone turn the lights on and off at the stalk while you listen to the relay. I don’t know if you’ll hear a click if you put your ear close to it but you can also take a screwdriver and put the handle end in to your ear and touch the relay with the head (it’ll act like a stethoscope). If you aren’t hearing a click replace the relay.

You can also try jumping the circuit using a piece of wire to connect the lead to the open (as in on) point. I don’t remember the numbers on the bottom of the relays but you can probably find a technical article on this here on the forum (or maybe someone else remembers which numbers are witch?). If you jump it and the lights go on the internals of the relay aren’t working or they are stuck (possibly from corrosion). Again you would want to replace the relay.

Electrical issues are a pain in the arse. Good luck!!!

[halboyles]

The rectangular box is the alternator regulator, and the round one is for the horns I believe.  Your car didn't come with relays for the headlights unless they were retrofitted.  It is pretty common for the switches for the lights to become defective as they are carrying all of the current to the headlights, especially if the headlights were upgraded to more powerful versions.

Edited January 26, 2019 by halboyles

[halboyles]

Here is an example of an early dimmer switch from a car with no relays between the switch and the headlights.  I had to take this apart to repair it as the contacts inside were as burned as the spade connectors.

[Happy Face]

thanks for the help - good information.  What's interesting is after the car has been on the road for a while, say 45 minutes, the headlights will come on.... mystery...but after the car is parked and cools off, then starting up car and trying headlights... no light

 

that rectangular regulator is no longer being used so I removed it . The brown ground wires were a bit loose to that connector... I tightened them up and it didn't make a difference on the lights

 

I pulled off the relays and checked the connectors.... they 'seem' clean.  But I haven't tried the 'click' test.... need the second person for that (espouse) 

 

I hope its not the main light switch, that's a pain and kind of expensive to replace (I've seen them for $175)

 

 

[Simeon]

If the high beam works when you flash it but not when you push the switch into full time high beam then it has to be your switch. 

[halboyles]

10 hours ago, VeronaO2 said:

I pulled off the relays and checked the connectors

 

Neither of those relays work with your lights.  The one in the first pic is the starter relay and the one in the second pic is the horn relay.  You don't have any headlight relays but you should add  low and high beam relays when you can.

 

9 minutes ago, Simeon said:

If the high beam works when you flash it but not when you push the switch into full time high beam then it has to be your switch.

 

Yes.  Notice that in the switch I was working on the two connectors that are melted are the high and low beam connectors.  The yellow/white wire is the high beam flasher connector and it is not melted because you only use it very intermittently.  You will probably be looking at replacing the switch.  The only "pain" involved in replacing it is in the pocketbook.

Edited January 27, 2019 by halboyles

[jgerock]

Please pull back a little and take more pictures of your engine bay.  The first picture is a horn relay that may have been substituted for something else.

 

Are you sure the wires to the headlight switch are correctly terminated? This also goes to the high/low beam stalk on the left side of the steering column.

[Happy Face]

A few pictures from further back in engine bay

Yes, I just have two relays visible. I had assumed one was for low beams, but perhaps not




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[jgerock]

Trace the wires from the round "hella" relay next to the washer bottle.  Looks like you have A/C, so that relay may be for the A/C system.  Doesn't look like you have any aftermarket headlight relays.

[Happy Face]

live and learn - I've had this car since 2003, still climbing the learning curve.  So confirmed, my 'early' car has no headlight relays at all.  The low's are fused I'm assuming.  I'll take a close look at the existing switch and will begin looking into adding a more reliable relay system for both low's and high's

 

thanks chaps for your help!

 

-dave

[Mike Self]

Almost surely the headlight switch.  On a '72, the low beams are fused, but the high beams aren't--and neither have relays. If you're planning to add a relay, PM me as I did a column on how I added a fused relay to my 73's high beam circuit.  72s and 73s have the same light circuitry, so it'll apply to your car.

 

And you may be able to revive your headlight switch by squirting some electronic tuner cleaner into the switch after you've removed it from the car.  Use a carbon tet cleaner, NOT carburetor cleaner.  Carbon tet won't catch fire; carb cleaner will.

 

mike

[Happy Face]

sent you a PM Mike

[mgben]

If you need to hire it done I had a good experience with Susquehanna  They have a tech who is an E28 guy and also have lengths needed for our cars. You can choose one or 2 fuses and the grounds are home run back to the source not grounded at each light like some systems. My set was plenty long.

https://www.rallylights.com/hl282-sms-upgraded-headlamp-wiring-harness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html

If you are a do it yourselfer this place has cool stuff, inline waterproof fuse holders and good relays.

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/

 

Edited January 27, 2019 by mgben
more info

[jgerock]

13 hours ago, mgben said:

If you need to hire it done I had a good experience with Susquehanna  They have a tech who is an E28 guy and also have lengths needed for our cars. You can choose one or 2 fuses and the grounds are home run back to the source not grounded at each light like some systems. My set was plenty long.

https://www.rallylights.com/hl282-sms-upgraded-headlamp-wiring-harness-for-conventionally-switched-systems.html

If you are a do it yourselfer this place has cool stuff, inline waterproof fuse holders and good relays.

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/individual-components/

 

+1  on the H4 harness/relay kit from Susquehanna.  I have their kit in both of my cars.  Uses (1) stock headlight lamp plug as the trigger lead to the (2) relays.  Mount and route the  new harness leads, connect a power and ground lead and you are done.