Hard getting into gear

[worzella]

43 minutes ago, Healey3000 said:

You like those bamboo skewers, don't you, Tom.

 

Distributor gear retention, and now this.

 

Yeah... Tom tried opening a small catering biz once specializing in shish-kabobs...

 

Steak cube, then mushroom, then green pepper slice, then rubber shift grommet, then chicken cube, then slice of spark plug boot....

 

I think a couple car guys thought they were good, but an acquired taste for most people ?

 

Randy

['76mintgrün'02]

I do love skewers.

 

 

"Haven't checked for moisture in the booster yet, but question: If it leaks while sitting in the garage, is it even possible that it would leak into booster and vacuum lines? Wouldn't those only draw in liquid while the engine is running?"

 

Gravity is enough to make it leak. 

 

You do know the clutch system is leaking, that is why it ran out of fluid.  Might as well order up a new clutch master and slave cylinder, imho.

 

As for the brakes, the fluid leaking out of a rear wheel cylinders has a ways to go before coming out the bottom.  If it is dusty in there it will soak up a lot.  So will your brake pads.  Sounds like you are due for a thorough inspection and a parts order. 

 

Have you ever pulled the rear drums off?  This'd be a good time.

 

One lesson I learned the hard way, is to try to lump parts orders together to save shipping costs.

Tom

Edited October 6, 2018 by '76mintgrün'02

[Simeon]

6 hours ago, backeis said:

Haven't checked for moisture in the booster yet, but question: If it leaks while sitting in the garage, is it even possible that it would leak into booster and vacuum lines? Wouldn't those only draw in liquid while the engine is running?

 

This is a good point. It depends how bad the leak is. Not that I can explain the fluid dynamics of it but since the system is ultimately open to air at the top, a large enough leak will work by gravity alone. Smaller leak (smaller than the equivalent air inlet) and it might be very slow or non-existent until you pressurise the system or run the engine to pull a vacuum in the case of a leak out the back of the master into the booster. You could have a rust spot on the wall of the master cylinder in the vicinity of the resting spot of one of the seals. Fluid could bypass the seal at this point. 

[backeis]

There's definitely a leak somewhere, because I'm losing fluid. The vacuum line from brake booster to engine though was sucked on do tight that I couldn't even pull it off. I had just driven the car for 20 mins though.

I think I'll double-check the non-pressurized supply lines from reservoir to cylinders etc. Those sit higher than everything else and could leak fluid along the way.

When driving, the brake is strong and I don't sense a lack of hydraulic pressure just from the way it feels.

With the clutch fully bled now, it engages right away when I barely press the pedal. I guess that's normal? I was used to it engaging further down but to be fair I apparently was running on half air in the cycle before.

I think I'll take the wheels off and check for leaks. And will replace master and slave if I don't find any. What's a good source for those parts? Should I get new or will used do?

[worzella]

Brakes = new!!!

[backeis]

Knowledgeable PO replaced front pads and caliper bolts in 2015 and in 2016 he rebuilt the rear brakes, new Brembo drums, shoes, wheel cylinders (tii versions), rubber hoses, parking brake cables.

 

That of course doesn't rule out that the leak is somewhere there. I think it's actually more likely, since my reservoir fill level was dropped way below the clutch feeder line and into the two separate brake compartments at the bottom.

 

If the leak was in the clutch and not the brakes, wouldn't it have stopped dropping further down once the clutch feeder line lay bare?

[Simeon]

54 minutes ago, backeis said:

the leak was in the clutch and not the brakes, wouldn't it have stopped dropping further down once the clutch feeder line lay bare?

 

That’s right. Also, if the leak was at a wheel cylinder, or calipers you would see the fluid on the floor by the wheel. This leaves us with a leak location that can hide a lot of brake fluid (and your other issues about smoke / poor running). I think we are narrowing it down. 

[backeis]

Good good. I like that I can narrow down my search. Taking off the wheels should get me closer to an answer.

['76mintgrün'02]

If you want to pull the vacuum line off the booster, remove the ninety degree plastic fitting along with it.

Get a large screw driver in behind and gently pry it away from the booster.

 

[backeis]

Ah thanks for the tip. I was trying to keep the plastic elbow in place.

[Son of Marty]

IMHO if your loosing 1/2 of the reservoir in a week you won't have to remove the wheels or put parer down to find the leak it will be everywhere around the leak. I mean get your wifes good measuring cups and fill the 3/4th cup full of brake fluid and pour it on the floor how hard do you have to look for the puddle? 

Edited October 7, 2018 by Son of Marty

[backeis]

I know. I'm surprised I haven't found it yet. I have a hunch it's the front left brake. Saw a small dry streak on the rim.

[joebarthlow]

somewhat related, a good break article from our own Rob Siegel 

 

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2018/09/24/what-you-need-to-know-to-survive-catastrophic-brake-failure?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=18_October_3_HagertyNews

[backeis]

Investigation continues. When the car idles, I see a slow drip about 1ft in from left front wheel. Looking up from underneath, I think I found the source of the leak, or at least the part from where it drips down. Leak might be above it.

Can you help me identify what this part is?



Thanks!

['76mintgrün'02]

that is your (leaking) clutch master cylinder.

 

It looks like you should be shopping for a "new" peddle box as well.