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No start turned into bigger problems


Train67

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Depending on your level of commitment to this block/engine - and assuming you have solved the rattle upstairs - you COULD have a little experiment with Moroso ceramic block sealer and drive the car for a while while you get another block lined up.

 

Gotta get ALL the antifreeze out if you try it.

 

I saw a miracle cure on a race engine one weekend with a pretty bad crack.

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I found a picture I took of the block deck right after I got it back from the machinist and you can see the cracks! I showed the machinist and he redoing another block I had for free.  We’re going to do a thorough inspection this time! Granted I would have rather not had to redo this 5 weeks before moving 400 miles away and taking on a new job but at least he is owning up to it.

69E305B0-5AB9-4CA8-BF4F-4904BBF3A688.jpeg

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Even if it could be weld repaired, doing anything now is too late because the weld shrinkage will distort the cylinder and machining is all done.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ready for this? I was looking over the head while the new block is getting machined and found these witness marks next to the exhaust valve for each cylinder.  It doesn’t seem like the valve could be hitting the head and I don’t remember seeing anything on the pistons but I’ll have to check again since they are at the machinist. I open the floor to any ideas for what the cause is. 

 

6780F9CA-819C-444C-A224-E2E5134AADE5.jpeg

52462E89-2CC1-4BDA-8858-8F4445154258.jpeg

7F146433-92CD-4C33-AC3F-DBFBF4736A57.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Chamfered area of piston was just touching the head. Luckily I only ran this motor for 20 minutes with no load before I saw the coolant leak and tore it apart and saw this.  New block was machined, head cleaned up, and motor is back in the car. 

 

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