Train67
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Everything posted by Train67
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E30 block. Big difference in the drain gutter ports.
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Thanks for your input. The gutter ports in the block from a 2002 are smaller than the original block the head came off of which was an E30. That block had a crack between the cooling passage and the head bolt thread. Must be some blockage between the most outer port and the next port. Others flow fine down to the block and oil pressure looks good. I’ll pull the head, clear the passage and reinstall with Cometic gasket.
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The oil took about 40 min to drain from that area. I am using straight 30 weight break in oil so maybe the regular oil when warm will flow better.
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Pictures of head, block and gasket. Thanks for your help.
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Update: the oil took about 40 min to drain from that area. The oil is not draining from the head near cylinder number 2 (see pic). The other drains are letting the oil get back down to the pan. The engine is a fresh rebuild using a ‘76 2.0 L block bored to 91mm and a 1.8 head with an S14 head gasket. This is the first time I am putting oil in it. Gasket holes seem to line up fine with block and head so I don’t know why it won’t drain.
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Chamfered area of piston was just touching the head. Luckily I only ran this motor for 20 minutes with no load before I saw the coolant leak and tore it apart and saw this. New block was machined, head cleaned up, and motor is back in the car.
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Ready for this? I was looking over the head while the new block is getting machined and found these witness marks next to the exhaust valve for each cylinder. It doesn’t seem like the valve could be hitting the head and I don’t remember seeing anything on the pistons but I’ll have to check again since they are at the machinist. I open the floor to any ideas for what the cause is.
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I found a picture I took of the block deck right after I got it back from the machinist and you can see the cracks! I showed the machinist and he redoing another block I had for free. We’re going to do a thorough inspection this time! Granted I would have rather not had to redo this 5 weeks before moving 400 miles away and taking on a new job but at least he is owning up to it.
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Here’s the culprit ? I had 3 machinists tell me the stress cracks were no big deal. Pretty big deal to me. Is is it able to be welded? Going to talk to machinist today.
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Does Erling make a head gasket for 91mm bore?
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Wahoo! I was hoping I wasn't being optimistically biased All 8 of the eccentrics had to be flipped around. Oil delivery appears fine, everything was/is oily. I adjusted clearance to 0.007". I'll check again and adjust to 0.006" and run it again. The motor has about 20-25 minutes of run time so far with the first 15 min having run between 2000-2500 RPM. I'll run it for 30 min more as suggested and see what happens. Coolant leak is still there but this small victory has certainly helped morale! Thanks for the input!
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Video of before eccentrics were corrected.
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I reviewed the videos before and after the eccentric adjustment and now I’m thinking there is an improvement. Here is what it sounds like now. Do you notice a difference and does it sound right? I’ll repost the before video again. B92FA9DC-19DF-4EE3-8F8E-6FA4235A6A8D.MOV
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Boy I really thought this was it because I looked and the eccentric was only touching the edge of the valve stem. I flipped the eccentric around and adjusted them and the contact area was much more centered. Unfortunately the noise is still there...arghhh. I’ll have to get a stethoscope on it.
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Great suggestions. Spray bar is oiling. Rockers are new heavy duty from Ireland engineering and the pads look good. 3 angle valve job was done. Cam was ground by TEP but no lash caps. TEP didn’t mention anything about lash caps and I don’t know what they are. Care to enlighten me? Valve springs are “heavy duty street” from TEP. They have the wound flat steel spring in the center. Not my favorite design and I suppose could be suspect. Retainers are from IE. Im with you on finding the noise first. I retorqued the head bolts using torque/angle but unfortunately coolant leak is still there.
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Well I checked the valve adjustment again and nothing out of spec. Started the motor and noise is still there (no miracles here). I still have to pull the head to find out what’s going on with the coolant leaking past the head bolt but I would like to know more about this noise before tearing into it. The noise and coolant issue may be coming from the same problem but it’s hard to see how they relate. I’m about to make a big move this summer so I’m hesitant about tearing things apart again right now but just may have to.
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I was thinking the same and have checked clearance multiple times... but I’ll check again
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Yes, just as the video shows.
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I did not get to pulling the head yet but I started it and took a video. It makes a knocking noise that doesn’t sound good. Any theories on what it could be? 07FD5F6B-779C-4C3E-B895-80B4250F6BEE.MOV
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It was a top to bottom rebuild and the threads were lightly coated. If hydro locked then area was fatigued and ready to go and I was the lucky one. Cracks there seem likely though. Praying it’s just the gasket
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Pulled the head bolt and found coolant at the bottom. There appears to be a path from the water jacket to the bolt threads. Time to pull the head...
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I used a Cometic gasket and tightened it to 60 ft lbs in 3 steps. This was the first time I ran and warmed up the engine. Checked the manual and it says another 25deg after engine warm up. Do you think that will stop the seepage? I’ll give it a try.
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I pressurized the coolant system and saw coolant coming from the center journal of the exhaust rocket shaft. It’s dripping down either side of the journal. Is this a crack in the head or gasket issue?
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Thanks for the input. I’ll do a cooling system pressure test and cylinder leak down and see what happens ?
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I know these motors are a little noisy so I assumed the noise I was hearing was a bit louder than normal because I have no windshield or hood on the car at the moment (project car). Now I am thinking it was some detonation happening because of the tune. I would love it to be just condensation but everything was clean and dry before starting it and the coolant drops are clear and blue.
