steering and suspension Guess the (future) Part...

[Rocan]

[conkitchen]

I'm guessing it's a steering and suspension part.

[Mike Self]

Adjustable swaybar link?

[Rocan]

It is suspension and steering related. It is not swaybar related. 

 

Here's another hint...

 

 

[LimeySteve]

Camber adjuster lower link 

[Rocan]

Ding Ding Ding... We have a winner!

[eurotrash]

ooooo.  I was gonna guess caster..

[eurotrash]

I see it now.  that's a sweet mod idea.  Keep the stock strut top bearings for ride quality.. wait.    Will the tops need shimmed to compensate for the center line angle change/bearing load that occurs?

 

Regardless, I could ditch the 1/4 thick camber plates that only get me about .75 degrees of negative.

Edited December 18, 2014 by eurotrash

[Rocan]

These are for the rear. I haven't looked at the front much, because the fixed camber plates should be good enough for now. I will be making an adapter to allow me to use 2.5" ID coilover Springs with stock top hats though.

I wanted easier adjustability than what's offered by the eccentric or serrated adjusters currently on the market. My car sees use in the winter so I would ideally like to be able to raise an inch over stock ride height for the winter months, so I also needed a greater degree of adjustability than whats currently out there.

[LimeySteve]

Brilliant idea , I have a lot of rear camber in my rear end OOHH ERR , it would be good to take some out & have it adjustable, good luck .

[eurotrash]

I'm totally confused.

[remout]

Nice! 

[manimal]

Damnit, that was my idea!

 

Edit. 

After staring at it for a bit, I'm assuming the upper hole is threaded all the way? If so, maybe machining a slot in the middle, not threading the hole, and inserting one of those square "weld nuts" McMaster sells may be easier/more serviceable. If the threads got mucked up you could replace the nut in a minute for pennies and you wouldn't have to worry about tapping the length of the hole. 

Edit #2. It won't work unfortunately. I tried a similar idea and you'd need to have a single large spherical bearings instead of bushing on the trailing arm/subframe interface. 

Edited December 26, 2016 by manimal

[Rocan]

manimal... That is an excellent suggestion. I'll have to consider all the options, but one of the reasons I used a full threaded length is so that the thread will be able to handle the forces from adjusting the camber/toe with the car resting on its wheels. also it provides slightly more consistent settings. 

 

As you mentioned, grime will be the issue to contend with, but judging by how clean the stock mounts are after likely not having been removed for years, i'm not too concerned. by design, that part of the sub-frame is not exposed to the elements or road grime very much.